HUGHES MOUNTAINEERING

Course Availability

2012-01-31T03:01:00.000-08:00

Know that the winter is in full swing and conditions are starting to come good, you will need to get in there before there is no more availability. I have a couple of slots that are still free if you are thinking of booking something to make the most of the conditions.

6-10th Feb and 26-29th Feb 2012 are the last slots available this season. These can be used to get the most out of you trip to the West Coast.

There is also a slot available on a CIC Hut Climbing week with West Coast Mountain Guides from 4-9th March 2012. For more info on this contact Alan Kimber and mention that you saw it here.

Add caption

Ventricle

2012-01-30T13:14:00.000-08:00

After working the weekend Matt and I were keen to get a route in today. We opted for Lochain as a lay in and short walk in were key to the day. The wind was stronger than forecast and wind blown snow was evident on the path, so we were aware that getting to the route could be interesting. After some weaving around we started climbing at a leisurely time (after 10am), and Matt was straight in. Ventricle VII,8*** has no easy pitches. Originally graded VII,9, it has short but fierce pitches that are steep and committing.

Matt powering up pitch 1

Getting stuck into pitch 2

Thin moves on pitch 2

Matt starting up pitch 3

Wild conditions on pitch 3

Involved in pitch 4

Matt coming up the offwidth of Pitch 4

The weather meant that we had the full winter experience today. My eyes even started to rime up and freeze shut at one point. The amount of snow being moved today was massive, so a lot of care should be used if you are out and about.

Cairngorm Weekend

2012-01-30T12:42:00.000-08:00

Myself and Matt have been East this weekend working with Richard, Chris and Richard. I was with Rich G and our focus was on gaining confidence on routes and a variety of terrain. Saturday saw us climbing in the Forty Thieves area at around grade 2. This gave a mix of terrain and also left us with enough time to look at some snow craft on the way down. Matt climbed Fluted Buttress Direct IV,5*** with Richard and Chris, who all came back with a big smile on their faces.

Rich and Chris chillin in the chimney

Sunday we started early and walked over to Hell's Lum. Matt and the boys climbed a busy Deep Cut Chimney IV,5***, whilst Richard and I opted for the Sneer III. We made quick progress up our route, so walked back into Sneachda and climbed Goat Track Gully Right Hand II.

It was nice to get away from the crowds and climb some Cairngorm ice that is not really that far to walk to.

Jacknife

2012-01-27T07:32:00.000-08:00

Both Guy and I were pretty tired today after yesterdays efforts, but wanted to take advantage of the good weather. We decided to head up the Ben and do something short on the Douglas boulder. Neither of us were too keen to wade up high through the dodgy snow after the avalanches yesterday on Aonach Mor and the Ben. This did not stop some, as large teams kept on trucking into some very loaded areas.

Guy Starting up the crux pitch of Jacknife

Into a nice bridged rest

We had the Boulder to ourselves and it was Guy's turn to lead as I had been hogging things a little recently. We chose a newish route of Andy Turner's called Jacknife V,6*, which climbs the corner right of Cutlass. The did the job perfectly giving 2 good length pitches and one short one to join the SW ridge. We down climbed SW Ridge back into the gully and made a pleasant walk down for tea and cake.

There are lots of things to do up there at the moment, but care is needed to avoid some deep pockets of localised windslab.

The Prow FA

2012-01-26T10:43:00.000-08:00

I was out with Guy and Luke today and had my eye on what I think is a new line on Aonach Mor. The Prow to the left of Sterling Bridge has a cool looking groove and hanging crack high in the face. There was a lot of care needed to get to the route today avoiding some funky snow and dodgy pockets of wind slab. There where 2 parties caught in small avalanches that I know of today on the slopes East of Easy Gully, and we witnessed a natural release as well.

The route we climbed had some excellent climbing on it and felt a bit harder and bolder than anything else I had led recently. After discussing it and comparing it to things of similar grades, we can to an easy consensus. The route is described below.

Resting before launching into the crux

Working hard through the thin hooks and feet

The Prow VIII,8** (Adam Hughes, Guy Stevens & Luke Brooks)

Pitch 1. (30m) Start underneath the prow and climb the slab to reach a ramp below the obvious groove. Climb the turfy groove with good gear to make a tricky step right on to a good foothold. Here the Groove narrows and becomes blank. make some thin moves to gain the steep wall out right, and make even thinner moves on poor flat hooks to reach the thin hanging crack/corner. More thin moves up the crack gains some good, but hollow hooks half way up the corner (poor bulldog protects). From here a committing move left leads to a rest on a good turf ledge. Move up and then move right across the face to regain the crack then the arete. Easy climbing leads to a good belay.

Trying to recover, it's steeper than it looks

The angle gear showing how steep it is!

Pitch 2. (25m) Climb the easy snow to the top.

Alien Abduction

2012-01-24T11:08:00.000-08:00

Trying to find a hook over the crux roof

Today John and I were keen to get a route in before the temperature shot up. Despite the avalanche risk being High, we opted to go to Aonach Mor, hoping to climb Alien Abduction VII,8**. Armed with a bit of local knowledge we abseiled in, kicking through the cornice as we went. The route looked awesome, so we got stuck straight in. After John led the first pitch, I got into the main event which was extremely bold to start.. A runner at the base of the corner was the only comfort for the thin icy mixed climbing until the crux 15m up. Thankfully, I managed to clear a crack out and get a cluster of gear before taking on the crux roof. Thin icy hooks with very poor feet took me through the roof, followed by more thin climbing to some good gear (eventually). I was soon at the belay with a great pitch behind me and only easy ground ahead. John romped up this as things started to drip.

A great route on a marginal day, awesome!

Almost there!

Fiacail Ridge

2012-01-23T13:47:00.000-08:00

Today was a guided day for Ben and Chris, with the aim to do something challenging and see how the skills they have been learning can be put to use on quite tricky terrain. The Fiacail Ridge was the perfect place for this. After a windy walk up to the difficulties, things soon eased as we kitted up. The ridge proper was in great winter condition, with everything covered in rime. We made good progress and covered a lot as we climbed the ridge. We descended 0.5 and made are way out. the buttresses looked in excellent condition, and there were many teams on a range of routes. Aladdin's was the least white, but still had a number of routes in condition.

More Bucket Seats

2012-01-22T11:00:00.000-08:00

We went back into Corie an t Sneachda today to try and re enforce the skills covered yesterday by picking our way up 0.5 Gully. The snow was bullet hard in most places, some the aim was to try and find natural anchors to keep things moving. Inevitably, a few Bucket seats had to be dug. I had said yesterday that by the end of the 3 days they would be good at it, and would also try and avoid getting into the situation where they would have to do it again. They agreed today. Once we had topped out we navigated our way around the top of the corie and to 1141m, then down the ridge.

Wild weather in 0.5

They wind was wild again today, but it has improved climbing conditions on the buttresses. There was a lot of ice and rime forming fast, leaving many option for routes today. The Gully lines are very thin, with the top of Jacob's looking like a mixed route.

Cairngorm Facials

2012-01-21T10:23:00.000-08:00

Today was the first day of a winter mountaineering course I am running on the East for WCMG. The weather has been a bit full on today, and Ben and Chris have coped well with the wild conditions that are not really conducive to easy learning. That said, we managed to cover a massive amount. After a refresher of some footwork skills in the morning, we got stuck into some snow anchors in the afternoon.

The boys working hard in the ming

Not a pleasent place to sit today

Anyone paying for a facial in some fancy salon should just come and spend a day out up here when the wind is blowing. I think I have lost at least 2 layers of old skin today. The conditions for climbing looked bleak, with black crags and lean gullies.

East Face Direct Direct

2012-01-20T11:08:00.000-08:00

It was back up into Lochain today with Guy and John to continue the mixed climbing bonanza. We had hoped to climb Central Grooves VII,7***, but there was already a team starting up it. We went for our second option of East Face Direct Direct VII,7***, which was outstanding.

John on Pitch 1

Guy making good use of a welcome bridge

Me getting stuck into the final corner

John linked the first 2 pitches to make a good sustained pitch. Guy then did a awesome job leading up through the bold roof , and then the steep turf to the steep corner of the final pitch. That meant I had the easy pitch of the day, which was still a steep, sustained corner that was still VI,6/7. An awesome route.

Other teams were on the usual classic IV's and a Euro team climbed Unicorn. There has been a lot of snow blown into the corie, so take care if you are heading out.

Unicorn

2012-01-19T12:28:00.000-08:00

Finally today there was some mixed climbing to be had as the snow came and was blow nicely on to the crags in Corie nan Lochain. I had Unicorn in mind, but would go with the consensus of John and Guy as well. They were happy to give it a go, as I was keen for the crux pitch.

Me about to get into the crux of pitch 1

John getting buried on pitch 2

Guy sending the 3rd Pitch

I led quite quickly, for me to the crux. This involved some awkward and physical chimneying up the steep and very thin flared groove. I was gutted to have an axe blow whilst placing a runner after the crux, which ended the onsight. The fall took me back to the base of the route. After battling back up, I was soon at the belay. John cruised up the short second pitch which had lots of positive climbing and good gear. Guy then led us to the top up the outstanding third pitch. Thin feet and positive hook made this a dream to climb.

There was a lot of graupel blown in today on the strong wind and it was pooling up in any hollows. It will be interesting to see what happens if more snow falls on top.

Ben Nevis Ice

2012-01-17T05:21:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I went up to the Ben with Matt and Ben to do a bit of mileage on some easy ice routes. They are both preparing for the guides winter test, so we had hopes to get a couple of things done.

Ben started us off up Comb Gully Buttress IV,5** which was in good condition, and had some nice climbing. We then nipped down No. 3 Gully and Matt shot up Winter Cascade IV,5**. This is not often in condition, so was a nice tick to do. It was then down No. 2 Gully and back up Comb Left Flank IV,5**, which again had some great climbing on it. This was day 14 out of the last 15, and I could definitely feel it, so a well earned rest day today as the temperature goes up.

Other teams climbed the same range of routes that have been in over the last week. Ice is forming fast and the Curtain was coming back quickly, so fingers crossed the warm weather passes quickly.

I have deleted my pics by accident sorry.

Aonach Mor Revisited

2012-01-15T09:04:00.000-08:00

John and I went back up to Aonach Mor hoping to get stuck into a trickier mixed climb today. Unfortunately, the light rime from yesterday had gone and all the buttresses are now black. Plan B meant we looked at options for accessing climbs when the avalanche risk is high. We also looked at the routes that are good to work on as John has an assessment the season.

We climbed a thin and interesting Roaring Forties IV'5**, which felt quite nippy and bold. A few other folks were on the usual gullies and ice lines. Plenty of folks on the Ben today, but one pair showed interesting judgement and dry tooled Gargoyle Wall Ihave been told.

Aonach Mor Mixed

2012-01-14T11:12:00.000-08:00

John and I took the easy walk up to Aonach Mor today with an open mind on what to do. Thanks to the cloud, the crags were white enough for some mixed climbing.

We started off with Pro Libertate V,6**. The main feature of this route is a cool corner half way up the crag. this was climbed on hero hooks with good gear to an easy finish. Next up John led Sterling Bridge VI,7***. This seemed to have a lot more good hooks than I remember from 7 years ago. John managed to snap the first 2 teeth off his darts front point half way up the pitch. Thankfully he had enough left to keep climbing.. There is now a flake at the top of the corner that is not attached and needs care. It has an in situ wire in it, and can be avoided easy enough.

Other teams climbed many of the ice routes that were in good condition, Hammerhead Pillar was climbed and Ribbon Groove.

I will add pics to the Facebook page when I can get a proper internet connection.

Dorsal Arete

2012-01-13T11:40:00.000-08:00

Dorsal was a great way to finish the week and show Craig the next step up. Perfect weather, firm snow and no wind made it a pleasure to climb today. A few other teams followed us up, and others did Forked Gully and NC Gully. We refreshed some of the skills covered through the week, starting with a bollard to get over a lip and down a gully on the East of the corie. Once down Craig worked haed digging bucket seats and buried axes as well.

Matt and Emma climbed Cascade on the Ben, whilst other teams climbed the routes mentioned yesterday. Jonnie and Timmy climbed Tunnel Vision and Right Twin on Aonach Mor.

Ledge Route and a Returned Axe

2012-01-12T10:16:00.000-08:00

Craig and I went back up to the Ben today and climbed Ledge Route. This was in lean, but good condition. There were many teams out today on Indicator Wall, Smith's, Good Friday Climb, Tower Ridge.

Matt, Emma and John climbed Smith's, but it was very wet. The ice was great to climb though. Paddy and clients said that Tower Ridge was in good condition, with lots off helpful snow and ice about.

Looking around there are things to climb. Tower Scoop, Comb and Green Gully with the variations as well. Cascade and upper cascade looked climbable, Glover's and White Line looked good. The Central gullies had ice in them as well. Point 5 has big holes in it and will take some time to recover.

My axe was amazing[y where I left it on Tuesday, so happy days.

Soggy Ben Nevis

2012-01-10T08:58:00.000-08:00

Craig and I walking into the Ben today to cover some snowcraft. There has been a lot of snow lost to the weather over the last few days, but there is still a reasonable amount in the main gully lines and in the hugh cories. We started off underneath Carn dearg buttress digging some bucket seats and testing them out. After a butty, we moved up into No.5 Gully which still has a massive amount of avalanche debris through the bottom. Here up near the steepening, we then pitched up using bucket seats and buried axes. We then looked at retreat, using snow bollards, before making are way back down.

A group of folks climbed ledge route and Paddy and his guys climbed Green Gully which he said was pretty good climbing, but the ice was not good enough for screws.

I was too busy chatting and left my axe on the wall of the hut. If anyone picks this up please let me know and will arrange to pick it up in exchange for a bottle of wine.

Winter Mountaineering

2012-01-09T11:14:00.000-08:00

Today was the first day of Craig's winter mountaineering course and the forecast was pretty good. We walked up into Lochain to cover a range of footwork and axe skills. The snow was very mixed, so some aspects of kicking steps were not easy to cover. After a touring around the apron, we settled on the East side to start sliding around. To finsih our day we took a walk up Forked Gully I and around the top of the corie before dropping back down to the path.

There were teams on Dorsal Arete, NC Gully and Twisting Gully, but thongs were pretty thin.

Matt and Emma climbed Thompson's Route and Comb Gully on the Ben, but there was water running down the ice in places.

Twisting Gully

2012-01-08T02:13:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was the final day of Karen and Rhys's intro climbing course and the forecast was pretty reasonable to get another route in. We made good time on the walk into Stob Corie nan Lochain, but slowed a little as we put the track in to the route. With the wind coming from the West, I was expecting a good winter experience to end the week. We were not let down as spindrift piled down the route. Karen and Rhys were not as entusiastic about as me about getting dumped on, but still enjoyed the day.

The wind had started to dump a lot of snow on those Eastely aspects, and some cornices were building fast and soft. There were other teams out on Reaburn's Route, Dorsal, and Boomerang. Another team came up behind us after bailing off SC Gully I think. The ice that was on the route was not very good, and made the climbing on steeper sections trickier than it should be.

Chilling out

2012-01-06T11:48:00.000-08:00

After 2 wet days and a big day yesterday, we opted for an easy day at the Ice Factor. This was probably the only chance this week we would get to cover ice climbing in detail. It worked very well and Karen and Rhys seemed to take a lot from the day. Things should be in nice condition tomorrow for our final day.

North Buttress

2012-01-05T12:27:00.000-08:00

Today was the best of the week no doubt. Dry, cold with amazing views across Lochaber. We decided to take advantage of the good weather and climb North Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor. This was in excellent condition today, with some good ice around as well. The snowpack had firmed up nicely with the drop in temperature overnight, but we still avoided the corie and decended the ridge which was the faster option for our team.

Matt and Emma climbed Hidden Chimney Direct in Sneachda today and said it was in excellent condition.

My camera had a blip today, so no pics sorry.

A Very Very Soggy Eastern Slant

2012-01-04T07:46:00.000-08:00

The forecast for today, was another shocker. Avalanche conditions are still high, as are the winds, so options are limited. We decided to take a walk up to Far Eastern Buttress which sits nicely below Stob Corie nan Lochain, hopefully keeping us way from trouble. The driving rain and strong winds was stripping the snow at lower levels as we walked in, with sleet at the foot of the buttress (approx 700m). Some fresh wind slab had been blow on to a pretty saturated snow pack, with some pockets that needed care to avoid. Being slightly lower this was not too much of a problem.

We climbed Eastern Slant III,4. Unfortunately the turf was a mixed bag and buried under a foot of snow. This said, Karen and Rhys enjoyed the climbing despite the wet and cold. I watch folks turn back who were attempting to walk into the corie, not long after the stream. There were also signs that the rain was taking its toll around the whole bowl before you make it into the corie. With this in mind we abseiled back down our route and avoided any decisions about ways to descend. It did appear that 2 folks had been up and climbed in the corie and returned, lucky?

No pics sorry, far too wet for my camera.

Intro to Winter Climbing

2012-01-03T09:06:00.000-08:00

I made my drive North yesterday, starting my season of work with a week long Intro climbing course for Adventure Peaks. The signs on the way up said that the road was closed from Tyndrum, which I had half expected with the forecast. Thankfully, it was open again when I got there at 16:00. That said, it was sticking fast on the higher sections over Rannoch Moor.

The weather forecast for today was awful. Hurricane force winds, snow, rain and a freezing level all over the place. Despite this, we found shelter on Gearr Aonach. Although Karen and Rhys both go to the climbing wall, neither had climbed outside before. They have a broad experience trekking abroad in the Alps and Himalaya, so their use of crampons was pretty good. So we started simple today and we will build up as the week progresses.

Karen enjoying the climbing

We walked up to the Zigzags and covered the basics as we climbed the short grade I start in a couple of pitches. There was a good covering of snow which made it all good fun. After abseiling back down, we traversed around to Zigzags Direct III. This gave us another couple of pitches, as well as Karen and Rhys the chance to really put into practice the skills we had been covering. It was a big step up, but seem to really enjoy the climbing.

As we abseiled back down the Zigzags, it was a mushy mess by know (another team had also been up after us). That said, the temp had dropped again and it was snowing at around 400m. We made our way back to the car, satisfied that we had avoided the worst of the weather.

Another Day at the Scar

2011-12-27T12:12:00.000-08:00

I picked up Huw this morning and we went to Woodhouse to blow the xmas cobwebs away. It was a nice surprise to not be climbing as bad as expected. We did a handful of V5 and V6's, with my highlight being a V7 I had not done before. There were also a batch of routes soloed up to E4 6b. There was a big team out from ROKT, with one of the young lads leading his first E1 today. Good day all round.

No pics, sorry.

A Bit of Rock

2011-12-22T09:25:00.000-08:00

Picking my way up Nervous Shakedown E4 6b**

I got back out on rock for the first time in 3 weeks, so was not sure how I was going to get on. Elliot and Beth joined me at Woodhouse Scar, which was surprisingly bone dry. We did a variety of boulder problems up to V5 and routes up to E4.

Making the crux move

Entering the crux moves of Piton Crack V5/E2 6b***

Only 1 more tricky move

A pretty good afternoon, and nice to redo some problems and routes I have not been on for a while.

Time to Pull the Finger Out

2011-12-20T08:31:00.000-08:00

Trying to get pumped

After my less than satisfactory onsight attempt of Traversty at the weekend, I feel that the only way to avoid it happening again is to actually do some winter specific training. I'm finding that despite being fit for rock climbing, handing onto my axes on steep ground is a different game. With this in mind, I went over to John's to do a bit of axe work on his wall and get rid of some of the weekend's stiffness. We had a good few hours once we had set some circuits, creating a good 45 move link up. It's obvious that if I spent as much time training as I do avoiding it, I would probably do a little better sooner, rather than later. I was feeling paranoid and opted for a helmet, which worked out well as John took a couple of blows to his as the odd hold bedded in.

John powering on

Traversty

2011-12-18T12:30:00.000-08:00

After yesterday, we were keen to go and have a look at Traversty VIII,8*** on Clogwyn Du today after Andy's comments that the route was well worth it. The crag was quite busy with teams on El Machno VI,7****, Blenderhead VII,8*** and Piller Chimney V***.

Trying hard in the wind on pitch 1

Matt crushing the crux pitch

The conditions were very wintry today, with a lot of rime and ice about making it tricky to see some of the small foothold and hooks. That said, it was my lead and fancied the crux first pitch, It is fair to say that I did not climb as efficiently as I could have and got a little pumped placing the gear. I struggled to spot the crucial foothold quickly which boosted the pump. I climbed back to the belay for a rest and re-group and tried again. The rest had not been long enough, and I failed in the crux. I managed to get back on and was almost through the crux when the axe I was matching ripped and sent me flying into space. After a lot of wasted energy trying to get back on, I retreated to the belay and offered Matt the pitch. He was not sure at first, but then all the training he has been putting in showed as he made quick work of the pitch. A fine lead.

Getting stuck into the offwidth second pitch

The second pitch was no gift, climbing a steep and awkward offwidth the was worth VI, 6 in it's own right. A short, but still surprising final pitch saw up happy at the top.

Happy to be past the offwidth on Pitch 2

All smiles after another great day

It has been a pretty good weekend, but the forecast does not look good for tomorrow with the temperature set the rise and rain come in as well.

A short bit of video showing the windy nature of the day.

Matt & Adam - Traversty from Andy Turner on Vimeo.
Andy Turner and Baggy were out today and did a couple of new route, check Andy's and Baggy's blogs for more info.

Siberian Kitten

2011-12-17T10:40:00.000-08:00

Matt and I headed up to Craig Dafydd today with the hopes of trying a new route that Matt had spotted earlier in the week. The takes a direct route up the crag taking in some good grooves, crack and overlaps. We settled on V,7, as the route felt a little harder and thinner than Gargoyle Wall on Ben Nevis, but the protection is pretty good.
.
Pitch 1. 4.Starting at the base of Helmand Province you climb up some turfy grooves onto a ledge, step right to a leftwards slanting turfy crack - climb that and continue to the base of the obvious crack. (40m)
Pitch 2. 7. Climbs the obvious crack to a ledge (possible belay) and then continue up a shallow chimney over the overhang to a ledge and block belays. (25m)
Pitch 3. 5. Climb the left on the 2 obvious grooves until a tricky step can be made across into the right groove (a bit bold), follow this groove until a step can be made around the arete onto a ledge and then climb the short steep groove to an awkward finish - belay well back. (30m)

Top section of pitch 2

We called the route Siberian Kitten - with a nod to Greg Boswell. Pete Macpherson and Guy Roberston's route Siberian Tiger.

Matt on the crack of Pitch 2

Adam heading into the second groove of Pitch 3.

The turf was in pretty good shape mostly after an obvious change in the weather from yesterday, with a good dusting of fresh snow.

Andy Turner was out with Calum Muskett and climbed Traversty VIII, 8 on Clogwyn Du. A good first route of the season for Andy. Check out his blog for pics andf more details, http://andyturnerclimbing.blogspot.com/

Boswell at it again!!

2011-12-14T04:15:00.000-08:00

Young Mr Boswell has been at it again earlier in the week with Pete McPherson and Guy Robertson in Coire an Lochain producing Siberian Tiger IX,10. If you have not seen this already, click on the link on the right and read his awesome account of their day.

CIC Attacked by the Wind

2011-12-10T06:46:00.001-08:00

I have been speaking to Greg Boswell who has been up on the Ben for the last few days with James Dunn and Will Sim. They made the FWA of the Direct Finish to Knuckleduster VIII,9, which is a fine effort. The bigger news was that the roof was blown off the CIC Hut by the massive winds. Greg and others tried to walk out, but were storm bound till yesterday. Got to love the British weather.

Hopefully Greg will get the chance to update his blog and fill in more detail.

Lakeland Winter

2011-12-09T12:30:00.001-08:00

Winter in the Lakes is always a bit hit and miss, but has been a bit more hit over the last few years. I have done very little, so was keen to try and take advantage of the improved weather today. Elliot has never winter climbed before, but had to be back for work at 6pm in Bolton, so a couple of route on Cambridge Crag, Bowfell were just the ticket.

We started off climbing with Left Hand Route IV,5 which was pretty average. The layback crack at the start of pitch 1 was quite cool though. The monsoon weather had not stripped as much snow as I thought it would have, and the extra that was put down today has left the crags looking pretty good. The turf was not frozen everywhere, but hopefully it should firm up over the next couple of days.

Starting up Professor

Enjoying the up upper fault

We then climbed Professer V,5/6. It felt quite nippy for 5, but I think it would be easier with a bit of ice. The climbing was pretty good on the long first pitch. Steep technical bulge followed by a good shallow chimney feature. Worth doing if you want a quick route.

Lets hope that the conditions continue.

Carn Etchachan

2011-12-06T13:39:00.001-08:00

Matt and Keith were back over on Carn Etchachan today to make the best of the weather before it craps out. They climbed the classic Guillotine V,6 and Nom de Plume VI,7 to wrap up a fantastic day. James Thacker was also over there today, so check out his blog for more info.

The weather is due to change tomorrow with increasing winds, before the temperature and hurricane force winds on Thursday. The lads are hoping to get a quick route in Sneachda tomorrow before they head back to Wales of Thursday.

Winter Continues up North

2011-12-06T03:03:00.001-08:00

Yesterday Matt and Keith climbed the Stical Face V,6*** on the Shelter Stone. Matt commented that conditions are still tricky, with the ice still causing problems with good protection. Other teams were out in the corries climbing the Message, Pot of Gold and Droidless to name a few.

Check out Mark Chadwick's and James Thacker's blogs for more pics and info.

Winter Weekend in the Gorms

2011-12-04T14:11:00.001-08:00

After suffering with FOMO all week as Matt, Keith and a few others have been taking advantage of the conditions up North, I was psyched when John said he was up for a weekend hit. After the long drive up, with a stop off in Edinburgh overnight, early start and no breakfast, we arrived in Sneachda at a reasonable time on Saturday..

The wind was not quite as bad as forecast, but the only shelter was to be found on the Fiacaill. This was also the whitest buttress in the corrie. As always I had a few things in mind as we walked in, but they were either black or blocked by folks waiting to get on the route that it used to start. Rather than wait around, we opted to do Stirling Bomber V,7***. This is a great way to get back into the whole winter climbing mode, with some good moves, physical, but never too hard. There was a lot of snow and ice on the route, but the gear was pretty clear. I had climbed this route back into 2005 and it was as good as I remembered. John really enjoyed himself, with a big smile all the way up. We were down off the route by 12:20 and decided to head down and get some breakfast. There where loads of teams on the Seam IV,4/5*** and a team on Fingers Ridge IV,4***.

Getting in the width

John getting stuck in

Working through the crux

Today we wanted another short day so we could get back down to Leeds in good time. The Mess of Pottage was looking ok, so we opted for The Melting Pot V,7***. There is a mass of verglass covering the crag which is making the climbing quite bold. A number of teams backed off routes because of this. The ice of our route made the climbing a little easier, although bold making feel more VI,6 as the guide suggests for these conditions. There were a lot more teams out today on all the usual routes. Top tip at the moment is to drop the grade a little whilst the cracks are so iced.

John finishing Pitch 1 of The Melting Pot

Greg Boswell has had 3 very good days on the Ben, check his blog for details.

Coire an Lochain

2011-12-01T15:31:00.001-08:00

Matt and Keith made another trip into Lochain today and climbed Hookers Corner VI,6/7 and Overseer Direct V,6. When I spoke to Matt he said that there was a lot of rime build up and the cracks are very icy. All routes need a careful and measured approach in these conditions.

Tim and Mark made the walk to Carn Etchachan and climbed the classic Equinox VI,6. James Thacker climbed the Hoarmaster V,6 and there were teams on Central Crack Route IV,5 and Third Man IV/V,6.

Winter is Here, Just!

2011-11-30T13:52:00.001-08:00

After a big thaw yesterday, overnight snow and a drop in temperature made climbing possible in the Northern Corries today.

In Coire an Lochain Matt and Keith climbed Fallout Corner VI,7, whilst Tim and Mark climbed Third Man V,6 and Third Man V,6. James Thacker was in Sneachda climbing Stirling Bomber V,7. He commented on his blog that there were teams on the Genie V,7 and Fingers Ridge IV,4. Care should be taken as the cracks where verglassed in places.

Follow James at www.jamesthacker-mountaineering.co.uk

Burbage West

2011-11-30T12:39:00.001-08:00

I met up with Tony and Tina at Burbage today for a spot of bouldering. We started off at the Bridge area to warm up on a range of easy problems to V4. The wind was not too strong, but it was pretty chilly. Next up, we went over to West Burbage. Neither of us had been here before and there were some good looking problems to go at.

setting up for the crux on Scooter

Enjoying the jug at the top

Tony showing his flexibility on the crux of Scooter

First up was a nice little arete called Scooter V4, which had a brilliant foot to hand rockover to reach the top. Go West V3 was then flashed by me and should also have been by Tony. He manned up next go and cruised it. Whilst Tony recovered from his burst of man power, I tried The Nose V6. I slipped off the crux first go, but thankfully sent it on the second. Tony then flashed Crow Man V2 and also the harder left hand version V3. I got stuck into Jason's Mono Problem V6/7 (depends on the guidebook). It took me a few goes to stick the finish hold which seemed to be the crux of the problem. I was really keen to try West Side Story V8/9, which is a super technical wall climb. The crux is setting your feet to pop to the break, but the all the climbing leading up to this is british 6b, so hard. I got into the crux a couple of times, but only spending 10-15 minutes on the problem was not enough. Next visit will be to do this problem and take advantage of this quick session.

Getting involved with West Side Story

About to try and set up for the crux move

Getting tired, we moved back to the Bridge area. Here Tony cruised a V2 arete and I did the V5 version. I also managed Mermaid V6, which although only short, packed a punch. To finish everything off we went and climbed Banana Finger V2/3. Neither of us had done this for about 10 years, so it was nice to get on it again.

Tony on Banana Finger

A big thanks to Tina for the pics.

Recovering from Man Flu

2011-11-27T09:32:00.001-08:00

I have been suffering with Man Flu since Tuesday, so a light boulder at Widdop with Elliot and Beth seemed like just the thing to kick the body into action.

Beth sending a classic little arete

We did a range of problems up to V5, but there was a big of a damp feel to some of them. Hopefully the body will be back to full working order by midweek.

New Edelrid Kit for 2012

2011-11-22T06:32:00.001-08:00

Over the last few years Edelrid have really branched out with the kit they produce. Along with the high quality ropes, their harnesses, rock shoes, helmets and hardware have won industry awards. The latest development have been in the massive re design of the ice axes and the all new rucksacks.

Top: Edelrid Riot Below: Edelrid Rage

The Riot is a well designed and balanced tool. It has been designed with leashless climbing in mind, using an ergonomically formed grip and removable hand rest that also offers good protection to the knuckles. It weighs 610g and you can also add the small weight seen on the Rage to the head to improve performance on ice.

The Rage is another well made tool for those steep ice and hard modern mix routes. The pick angle can be changed to suit your needs, the aggressive shaft give excellent clearance and the ergonomic handle makes them easy to wield. These to have the removable weight option to improve performance on steep ice.

These are 2 excellent addition to the ice axe market and will be availbale to buy from Feb 2012.

Left: Helix 25 Right: Mirage 35

The Helix is the Ultra light rucksack for day trips or fast and light ascents. It has a removable plate, waist belt and lid to make it even lighter and smaller.

The Mirage comes in either 25 or 35 litres and is made from a highly durable ballistic nylon. It also has a removable back plate, waist band and lid. The side compression system has been designed to make attaching skis etc. simple. The 35 litre model has an extra 10 litre of capacity if needed which the floating hood copes with easily.

For more info on Edelrid products click on the Edelrid logo in the side bar.

An Easy Day

2011-11-21T10:41:00.000-08:00

Today I had an easy day at Heptonstall with Elliot and Beth. The body was in need of a rest, so I spent the day following Elliot up some classics. We started on Main Line VS 4c**, which is a great little slabby/wall climb that looks pretty blank from below, but provides lots of good edges. Elliot decided to get straight on a Thin Red Line E2 5b***. He had been shut down on this on his only other visit to the quarry, but is a much improved climber these days. This was demonstrated as he cruised the route. I nipped up Fairy Steps HS 4b*** next to keep the routes flowing. Elliot then led Brown Sugar E2 5c** which is a little trickier then TRL with a good crux going through the roof on a jam. Again Elliot dispatched the route in good style. We wrapped the day up with Bull's Crack HVS 5a***. This is awesome for the grade and only really gets the 3 stars if you climb the chimney instead of finishing at the ledge, which is the trend. Both Elliot and Beth enjoyed the full 3 star experience.

Mytholm Steeps and West Vale

2011-11-20T08:23:00.001-08:00

Elliot entering the crux section

Elliot and I continued the bouldering theme today by going to Mytholm Steeps. As the name suggests, the climbing here is on the steep side. Defo not my style! We milled around a bit on a few moves here and there to warm up, before getting stuck into the Wickerman V5/6 (the grade is variable depending on who you speak to). I would say it is similar in grade to the Green Traverse, so font 6c+ would describe it best IMO. This is a great problem, with the crux of the traverse section being right near the end. Elliot and I are very different heights, so had a very different sequence for the crux. With this dispatched we turned our sights to some of the other classics, but got spanked. What a difference is makes when it's not playing to your strengths.

Loving the big holds

A cheeky toe hook making the sloper feel like a jug

We decided to head to West Vale to massage the ego a little, being vertical and crimpy. I showed Elliot a few of the classics, which he cruised. Our attention then turned to the steep high arete which makes up the end of the Scot is Bent wall. Climbed on it's right hand side, it's given V6 6b+. This was not too bad, just rquired a bit of commitment. Both quite happy with our day we decided to save some skin for tomorrow.

Ron's Crack II

2011-11-18T09:32:00.001-08:00

Elliot, Nic and I went to Crookrise for a boulder and the odd solo. Conditions were less than perfect, with damp pockets causing the most frustration.

We all sent Cease Direct V3 and then a few variations on the slab to warm up. A lot of time was the spent on the Fly V8. We all managed to get to the pebbles on the slab proper, but using them was not that easy. Hovis Super Direct V5 was the next problem to cause frustration. A damp pocket made the crux move really hard to do, another condition dependent problem. So Elliot soloed Hovis E1 5c***. We decided to have a go on Ron's Crack II E3 6b** (or V6/7 very highball). I was gutted to blow the onsight when I didn't get the finger lock in perfect, then bottled it when it started to slip. No mistake next go, and I have the bruises and skin lose to prove it. Elliot had commitment issues as it pretty high, so we moved down to Diet Pepsi V4. My skin had given up, so I was on spotting duty. This is pretty nippy for the grade, but Elliot managed to send it after a bit of work. Nic and Elliot finish off sending a range of the problems on End slab.

I need a day off to grow some more skin, but hopefully will get out on Sunday.

Brownstones and Bleeding Tips

2011-11-17T10:25:00.001-08:00

It's that time of year when it can be too chilly for routes for me, so bouldering is the best option. As I am rubbish at bouldering, it takes a bit of effort to get psyched for it. After a good afternoon on Monday at the Brownstones, I was keen to go back to do some of the tricky problems as they suit my style.

A quick warm up on the Nexus wall, and it was time to do a bit of pulling to get the fingers working. Some crimpy easy problems and I was good to go. First I did a couple of the Unjust Eliminates, Unjustice V6 6b* and Unpinched V7 6b/c*, then flashed the Nexus Dyno V4*. Next up was Pigwill Sit Start V6 6b**, quite a good problem and it set me up nicely to get on Hank's Wall V6 6b***. This was the first time I had tried this fresh, and what a difference it made. 3 attempts was all it took, not as hard as it seemed at the end of the day on Monday. Conditions were excellent and I seemed to be on form, so I went to check out Groundhog V6 6b***. I fluffed the onsight on the last move rushing to finish, but made not mistake on next go. Seeming to be on a role, I thought I would try the Groundhog Sit Start V8 6c. This adds a couple of pretty hard moves to join the original. Pulling on was the crux, then it was not too bad after that. I had to crimp very hard to hold the small crimps through the normal crux and split a tip whilst sending it. It was not major, but enough to end play for today.

Fingers crossed it will be ok for tomorrow.

Wilton and the Brownstones

2011-11-14T09:04:00.001-08:00

Today I finally managed to get out climbing after being confined to the wall last week. I traveled over to Bolton to meet Elliot and we decided to have a look at Wilton 1. Elliot very kindly offered to give the Hacker E4 6b** a brush for me a he had headpointed it earlier this year and want to get the onsight. He had commented at the time that is was not that pumpy etc.so with that in mind I thought I would just start on that. A boulder around to warm up a little whist Elliot brushed should be enough.

I was quickly through the bold crux at the bottom and reminded even quicker that me and cold winds don't get on to well. The climbing was pretty straight forward, but steeper than it looked. Add all the time it takes to work out and place gear onsight, then it becomes a pumpy route in the cold. Luckily the angle eases at 2/3 height and the cold pump was manageable. I could not feel the hows I was using through the top section, but thankfully it was mostly on my feet. A good route none the less.

We moved over to Wilton 3 where Elliot led a damp and dirty Grader E3 5c***. The conditions did not effect the climb until the crux and top out that had suffered from mud running down it. Elliot had done the route before and was grateful at the top to have the runner ready before taking on the mud. A sterling lead today. I followed and had the same problem by the crux, with no feeling in my hands and just pulling through, hoping for the best.

Crimping Hard

Getting involved and pulling hard on the poor holds on Ridiculous Eliminate

We decided to ditch routes and go bouldering at the Brownstones. I had been here once before and ticked a lot of the classics. But had a hard time on a couple of the tricky problem. After sending a range of problems up to V5, we had a crack at Ridiculous Eliminate V8 6c/font 7b**. This is a short, but hard few moves on some very small, poor, slopey crimps. After a few failed attempts I managed to work out the right foot sequence to make the holds usable. This made the world of difference and I sent it next go. Well Happy! We finished off try Hank's Wall V7 6c***, which is nails and not one to try at the end of the day.

Elliot trying hard on Hank's Wall

CWA Training

2011-11-13T10:19:00.000-08:00

After spending a few days climbing indoors due to bad weather this week, I was back inside again over the weekend running a CWA Training. Day 1 was at the Leeds Wall where we covered all aspects of personal climbing and coaching. Day 2 took us to Harrogate Climbing Centre to look at all the group aspects of the award and the Abseil module. All the candidates commented that they took a lot from the 2 days and will hopefully be back for assessment early next year.

Slip 'n' Slide

2011-11-06T09:22:00.000-08:00

Today I was free as Em has been on nights and sleeping during the day. After the last few weeks efforts, taking a couple of days off has left me feeling rested and ready to go again. I only had 2 more of the 3 star routes to do at Crookrise, Small Brown E4 6b*** and Slip n Slide E6 6a***, so that was the aim of the day.

Conditions where great, but it was warming up in the sun as I walked in. Wanting to take full advantage off the cold I went straight to Slip n Slide. This is an extremely bold solo, with a very poor landing that can't be padded out very well. With this in mind, I decided to abseil down and see where to place the mat to protect the crux as best as I could. This also gave me the chance to see what I was going to at the top of the ramp. It all looked quite straight forward, so I got on it and went for the flash. Very balancy padding led to the crux at the end of the ramp. If only I was 6 ft, I could reach the hold without making the holdless rockover. It took quite a bit of composing myself to make the move. It is not that hard, V3 as a boulder problem. But the situation really makes you earn all the E points. After that move you have holds and can sprint to the top.

Small Brown was up next. I wanted to flash Massive Attack E5 6b** as well, so abseil that which meant I got a look at both. This was useful and showed me where the mat would be best placed. Small Brown went very easily and it soft for the grade, but has nice moves. Massive Attack goes where Small Brown should have, and follows the arete all the way top the top. This has all the best climbing of Small Brown and more, awesome!

It was warming up by now and the crag was getting a bit busy! Surprisingly. So I decided to head back and spend some time with Em as she would be up soon. On the way back to the car I climbed Ron's Crack 1 V6*** and the V5 arete to the right. Both nice problems and a good way to wrap things up.

Bridies Bouldering

2011-11-03T09:14:00.000-07:00

Neil on Charlotte Rampling

Neil and Mhairi had to head back North today, so a short drive and mid afternoon finish meant the Bridestones was perfect. It had dried out nicely after the rain last nigh and this morning, with only a few things wet. We warmed up around the brother and sister area, before heading over to small smart wall. Here The Villain V2 was flashed with ease, and the majority of the problem up to V5 sent with minimum fuss. The tour continued over to the Obscene Cleft boulder, where Black Cheek V4 and the start to the Cleft V6 where flashed. The day was rounded off with Neil getting Horror Arete V5 second go, after slapping the top on his 1st.

Mhairi on Black Cheek

Neil cruising Horror Arete

A good few hours spent in good company.

Hawkcliffe and Stanage

2011-11-02T13:23:00.000-07:00

Neil and Mhairi has come down from Scotland for a few days, so I have been trying to show them some good route that I have down lately, and thought they could flash. As Hawkcliffe was on their way, we met there at midday hoping it would be dry after the rain on Monday. We found Emerald Buttress dry enough and climbed Woodland Ecology E5 6a**. Neil flashed the route, but was nursing a hang over. This took its toll on Mhairi's psyche a little and she backed off the route. The Prow area was a bit damp, so we went to Eldwick for Neil to try and flash The Elevator E5/6 b/c**. Neil had hurt his finger before coming down and this was too painful on the crux. Whilst we where there I did the route again so Mhairi could take a couple of pics for me.

Setting up to move into the crux

Catching the Dyno

Today we went to Stanage hoping to take a few classics. Starting at the lone boulder to get a the feet working, then over to Cresent Arete to get into the arete mode. Feeling pretty psyched I got on White Wand E5 6a***. I have been wanting to do this for almost 10 years, but really wanted to cruise it on sight when I did. The crux was quite nippy for 6a, and the route was a little damp, but it was amazing! I'm so glad I waited

Engaged on White Wand

High above the pads

Nearly at the gear

Mhairi then cruised Tower Face HVS 5a* and I onsight soloed Four Star E5 6b**. We then decided to boulder, cruising a range of problems on the pebble up to V5. Neil the show us the way on the Green Traverse V6, which I was psyched to then flash. Mhairi started to make good progress on it but, a break from climbing to do her ML has taken it toll on her a little. Neil then did the V7 6c* mantel that comes up from the crux crimp on the traverse. We finished off sending a batch off problems on the Business boulder.

A great day.

Woodland Ecology

2011-10-28T12:57:00.000-07:00

The plan today was to return to Hawkcliffe, which should have stayed dry as all the rain was coming from the west. I met Elliot there. but Tony was running late, so we walked up to see if it was dry. As we approached we were greeted to a dry Emerald Buttress basking in the morning sun, RESULT!!

Elliot Flashing Woodland Ecology

Tony on RIP

This is my 11th day out of the last 15 climbing, so being pretty tired I had one route in mind for the day and anything else would be a bonus. I abseiled down to brush off the leaves and check is was not too damp. It was dry and there were less leaves than I had thought there would be. but still enough. Woodland Ecology E5 6a**, the last of the tricky routes on the buttress that I had left to do, is mostly slabby, so I just got on with it. The route starts as for Ginny Greenteeth to the ramp and gear (which is very good once you get a good cluster in). Here it traverse rightwards to finish up the easy upper arete of The Blood on the Shamrock. Elliot also flashed the route and we both agreed that it felt more E3/4 5c. The moves are straight forward and right next to the gear. We compared it to Lazy Friday E4 5c at Wilton which we thought was similar in difficulty, but much move serious than Woodland.

Elliot had cleaned RIP E1 5b* which follows a thin crack up a cool little groove. We had done this as Tony arrived, so we pointed him at and he dispatched it in style. We then moved over to the Prow where Tony led Squirrel Crack E1 5b***, which he loved by the whoop! at the top. Elliot wanted to toprope Driveby E6 6b***, as he thought this might suit his strengths after belaying me on Wednesday. It was a bit damp today, so he gave it a brush and I took advantage of this and Tony, leading it again to get some pics. The routes was ok, but the top out was pretty damp. Elliot climbed the route well, but I was gutted that at 6'2 he could reach past the crux and make it 5c ish. The top out was a bit much today, so it is one to return for. As the rope was up I had a burn on Charlie Don't Surf E8 6c***. I was very surprised when I made it to the peg straight off and then linking through to do the route in 2 first go. I left it at that. Don;t want to get too involved as I might get crazy thought about leading it.

Tony well into Squirrel Ceack

Making the crux move on Driveby

The Jug

Thin moves to finish

We wrapped the day up with Tony leading Syrett's Slit E1 5b* a quality, steep offwidth. Another great day at Hawkcliffe and no one else about, shame!

Driveby

2011-10-26T09:30:00.000-07:00

The plan was to met Elliot at Wilton today, but the rain overnight has wet the routes we were keen to get on. Instead we went to Hawkcliffe. There are some amazing routes here, but they have been naglected over the years. Recently I have done a couple of routes here, as well as a few other locals that have been cleaning the 3 star classics.

Elliot getting involved with the pod on Squirrel Crack

It was Elliot's first visit, so he was first up on Squirrel Crack E1 5b***. This is on the easy side of the grade, but offers some outstanding and amusing climbing up the long crack. Elliot cruised this, which then meant it was time to look at the main objectives for the day. Elliot was keen for Flame Arete E5 6b**, and I Driveby E6 6b***. We both Abseiled down the routes to give them a clean. They had seen recent traffic which made this quite quick, but was still worth the effort after the rain last night.

I was first up to try and flash Driveby. The gear is excellent and can be placed off jugs, with the peg in reach for me from the bridge in the chimney. This route is totally my style, balancey moves out of the chimney, then sustained crimping above. I was totally psyched to flash this with little trouble, and was keen to see Elliot do the same on Flame Arete.

Unfortunately, Elliot was not on form today. He got shut down by the crux moves leaving the break. I blame it on his long legs etc. A route that it better suited to the average stature. I took advantage of Elliot's hard work and had a bash. Moving through the crux I slipped off a damp undercut, NOOOOOOOO! A quick brush and lower off, it went a peachy next go. Gutted to blow the flash, but these things happen. I thought the route was very good, but probably 6a for me (the right body dimensions I guess).

Get down here folks. It will only get better with traffic.

The Elevator E6 6c**?

2011-10-24T06:40:00.000-07:00

I had a tip off about The Elevator E6 6c** at Eldwick Crag. This is a 12m steep, technical slab, so right up my street. John had agreed to give me a belay and I was keen to try and flash it having the benefit of video beta from Dave Warburton and Huw Goodall. I arrived about 30 mins before John, so abseiled down to brush the holds after the low cloud last night. A bit of chalk quickly took away the dampness and let me see the crux holds. Whist waiting, I soloed up to the gear and placed it before reversing to the ground. After bouldering up and down the start a bit more to warm up, I was chilling when John turned up. A quick chat and my eagerness to get it down saw me up to the gear and into the tricky moves above. The last 2 moves proved to be the crux, but all the video beta paid off as I found myself latching the top. YEAH!!!!!

Although I have done over 10 E6's, this would be the first I have flashed. Unfortunately, I am not convinced the meaty grade is right. To me it is no bolder than Wings of Unreason or Auto de Fer, both E4. It is however, much harder to read and would be a very good onsight. Therefore E5 might be fair. The tech grade is way over as well. My thoughts are that it is a balancy 6b. I am only 5'10, so can't even claim the advantage of height for this discrepancy. Never the less, it is a great bit of climbing and worth a visit.

John working hard on Die or Comply

We also had a go on Die or Comply font 7a+ or V7?. This is a good looking finger crack, that has some excellent locks, tricky layaways and good but small footholds. We both slipped off the crux a couple of times as the hold was suffering with a damp spot. I abseiled down to brushed it and removed some mud and plants that where causing the problem. This made all the difference, and I sent the problem straight away. John got extremely close, but maybe needs another quick visit.

John setting up to start the crux couple of moves

Again this is a great little problem, but over graded. I thought font 6c or V5 was a better reflection.

A Working Weekend

2011-10-23T12:49:00.000-07:00

I have spent the weekend in the Peak with Izzi, who wanted to improve her general climbing technique.

Saturday we went to Burbage North where the focus of the morning was to get Izzi back on the sharp end. She did well, leading a bunch of routes from Diff to HVD 4a. I the afternoon we turned the focus on to new skills. 20 foot crack was a great place to run a jamming clinic, as it was the perfect hand size for Izzi. We found finger cracks to work with, before spending some time focusing on footwork and shifting our centre of balance. By the end of the day we had covered loads and climbed 10 routes from Diff to VS 5a.

Today we went to Stanage with the aim of climbing loads of routes to put into practice to skills covered yesterday. We started by climbing Paradise Wall HS 4b*** which meant we were straight into some jamming and neat use of our feet to make things as easy as possible. This theme continued with Paradise Arete VS 4c* and Pegasus Wall VS 4c*. To mix up the use of feet and features, we then climbed Seesaw VS 4c*. This has some good smeary moves up a slabby arete. Izzi then led Garderner's Crack Diff* to break things up a little. It was straight back to the focus of consolidating skills and we climbed Fairy Steps VS 4a**. This was a great test for Izzi, with its lack of handholds in the right places which forced the use of good positive footwork. Next up was The Coign HS 4b**, another slabby arete with a couple of steeper moves in the middle. We moved over to Wall End Slab to cement the days footwork focus. Here we climbed Wall End Slab VS 5a***, Wall End Slab Direct Finish E3 5c** and Wall End Slab Super Duper Direct E3 5c*. This gave a really good and concentrated session. The day ended on the Lone boulder. Izzi managed to send Lone Slab Arete V1 5c.

A great couple of days in good company and with good conditions.

Hawkcliffe

2011-10-20T08:36:00.000-07:00

I had forgotten about Em's work thing this afternoon, so found myself with a few hours free before I had to do a learn to lead course at the local wall. Having seen that someone had been to Hawkcliffe and climbed the route I fancied I thought that a 5th day out of 7 was called for. It proved to be a great end to a weeks climbing. I had walked into the crag a week ago to find it soaking. This time it looked like a different crag altogether, and the lines looked amazing. Ginny Greenteeth E5 6a*** was what I had come for, and was very pleased to see that there was still loads of chalk on it. I abseiled down and cleaned off all the dry leaves and left a sling in place for the dodgy top out just in case (useful beta from UKC). It was totally my kind of route, so I got straight on it. It was really balancy and technical, but not physical. I was soon at the top, which although scary, was all good. Many thanks to Dave Warburton and Nik Jennings for cleaning this route up.

I noticed that The Blood on the Shamrock E6 6a*** had chalk on it as well, and really fancied this too. I dropped the rope down and had a go. The climbing on this was also outstanding. A little more physical, but positive and again my thing. The hardest thing about it was not falling off whilst belaying myself through the Gri Gri. This at least meant that I had to be balaced and solid the whole way up. After a good rest I soloed this as well. The crux of the route is near the start, but still quite high. It then eases considerably as good holds arrive.

This venue has some great routes, but needs a lot more attention to stop them all being reclaimed by nature.

Bouldering at the Bridies

2011-10-19T09:47:00.000-07:00

After the rain yesterday, I was glad to see the sun out today and a good wind blowing. This meant that by midday when I met Elliot at the Bridestones, they were nice and dry. Conditions were pretty good today and we climbed a good range of problems to V7. We both did some problems we had not done before, the best of which for me were Big Bash V4 6b*** and the Direct version of Charlotte Rampling V7 6c*. A split tip and getting tired we called it a day after Cleopatra V5 6b***.

Flashing Big Bash

Starting up Cleopatra

Cruising up the easy section of Cleopatra

Elliot try hard on one of the Small Smart Wall problems

Reaching far on Charlotte Rampling Direct

Sticking the poor sloper

The Virus

2011-10-17T06:49:00.000-07:00

The weather has been better than expected here today, so I took good advantage this morning and got out early. I went up to the Bridestones first despite the wind to try Cleopatra V5/6 (depends on the guide you look in). This is a great problem with one tricky move low down then straight forwards to the top. I thought it was on the easy side of V5, but awesome none the less. Out of Sight V6 is a funky little arete problem just around the corner. I was pleasantly surprised when this was sent with in a few tries. After a couple more problems I boosted and went to the natural section of the Roost.

There have been 5 new route go up here recently and I don't think any have been repeated. These are all my possible solo range, so I thought I would go and have a look. Jumble Hole Jaspers E1 5b* and Ost Gut Ton E3 5c* were only done yesterday, so I knew these were clean and good to go. Both routes were average and pleasant enough, but I would not give them any stars. The 2 harder routes looked much better. The hardest of them, The Virus E5 6a* takes a steep crack, then seam/flake up the overhanging main wall to an exciting finish. I gave this a quick brush and toprope to see how it was. The climbing was straight forward and on the easy side for 6a, with the hardest part of the route being topping out. After a short rest I soloed this, but was pretty gripped on the top out. The climbing was very good though. I abseiled down Flaming Stepe Beko! E4 6a* and brushed it. This looked fine, so I flashed this Solo. I thought that E3 5c* would be a better grade, but the climbing was excellent. There was only one more to do, Ig n Stu's techno Groove E2 6a*. This needed a brush, but was fine after that. At only 6m it is more of a highball problem, and reasonable.

All in not too bad a day.

Bridestones

2011-10-16T02:05:00.000-07:00

I was not expecting to climb today as we had friends visiting, but Em, Penny, Does and I ended up at the Bridestones for a couple of hours. Only Does and I climbed as the girls are out of action for a while. I had not been up to the Bridies for about a year and was surprised to see a few other folks about. As always they were crowded around Horror Arete, so we went to the small smart wall area. This was the first visit for Does, so here gives some reall nice problems in a good grade range. We climbed a number of problems from V0-V7, but the highlights were Does's flash of The Villain V2 and was psyched to cruise all the problems on the Pointless slab. I even did a few problems I had not done before.

Wilton 2 and Egerton

2011-10-14T11:00:00.000-07:00

I traveled over to Bolton today and met up with Elliot and Stu hoping to find some dry rock. The main reason was to try Pigs on the Wing E5 6b*** at Wilton 2 if no one was shooting in there. Luckily no one was in there and it was the driest wall around today. As it had been so wet I abseiled down to brush and check the route. It was a bit smeggy and the only jug was a puddle, but I managed to soak it up and dry it off enough. The aim was to flash it, but after starting up it still felt greasy and very reachy for my. Not really trusting the RP runners and the crux move looking like it would but me very close to, if not on the deck, I opted for the soft option and toproped it. The crux move was pretty hard for 6b, and I was shocked when neither Elliot or Stu could do it. This did re assure me that it was hard as I found it nails. The move got better as I warmed up and the hold dried out a bit move with traffic. After a few goes to get the move wired, I led the route it the best style I had climbed it on any go. Awesome climbing, but quite committing with the landing.

About to enter the hard climbing

We moved over to Egerton where we all climbed Satin Sapphire E3 5c***. There are still a few 3 star route here that we all want to try, but have to clean them all before we can. It seems to be a route a visit here.

Eastby Take 2

2011-10-13T13:30:00.000-07:00

After the bad weather this week I was hopeful that I would get something done today. I took a walk up to Hawkcliffe spurred on by the knowledge that it had been dry last Friday after all the rain, but was not surprised to find it very wet. Eastby was my back up, and thankfully dry enough to try and tick the last of the stared routes ate the crag..

I started by soloing Block Buttress HVS 5a*, which had a few damp bits on it. This prompted me throw a rope down Genuflex E3 6a* to brush it and see how dry it was. There was a little damp on the crux break and I had heard it was a bit of a sand bag, so tried it on the rope. I'm glad I did. It felt more like stiff 6b. I got the move dialed, then soloed. Hangs E4 6a* was the last route on the buttress and more my style, so I was happy to flashed this one. Defective Too Early E4 6b** was next up. A hard crux low down with a poor landing meant headpointing this was the sensible choice. After a quick toprope, I soloed this as well. I was running out of steam a bit, so moved on to some slabby routes. After checking they were dry, I rounded off the day soloing Blinkered Variation E3 5c*, Mistaken Identity E1 5b* and Action Traction E4 6a*.

Another great day at Eastby in the bag, and a couple of stared routes still to come back for.

SPA Training

2011-10-10T02:52:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend I have been working on a SPA Training Course in the Peak for DaN Mckinlay.

Day 1 was spent at Stanage where we covered all the aspects of personal climbing, management and professionalism. Despite the weather, everyone led routes from Diff to Severe and seemed to enjoy themselves. There was also an evening session at the Foundry, which covers the use of climbing walls with groups etc.

Day 2 was all about groups. The small bay at Lawrencefield give an excellent venue for this, with its easy access and self contained area. We managed to cover all the rigging for climbing and the problem solving before the rain started. But had to suffer a little whilst we worked through the abseil section.

Overall, the weekend was successful and everyone commented they had a lot to take away.

Eastby

2011-10-07T10:30:00.000-07:00

High on Whaup Edge

After the downpours this week I was keen to get out and take advantage of the good forecast. Looking through the guidebook, Eastby seemed like a good option. South facing, Very quick to dry, a bunch of 3 star classics and I had never been before, Sold! I meet Elliot on the way, and before long we had racked up a total of 9 routes.

Elliot on Piilar Rib VS 4c***

Firstly we soloed Eastby Buttress VD***, then Pillar Rib VS 4c***. Elliot put the rope on to lead Pillar Front E2 5b***, which was as excellent as the others so far. I then led Thumper E4 5c***. Despite being bold, the climbing was steady and again did not lack in quality. Elliot then flashed the route as well, giving us both a good haul so far. Both of us soloed Nose Climb S 4a*** and Index Variation VS 5a** before having a look at Dead Babies E5 6b** which is a short solo. After falling off the last hard move near the top, we decided to bin it and try some other routes. I led Thumper Direct E5 6a, which I thought was the better way to do the route and not that much bolder. Elliot wrapped up the leading for the day with The Padder E1 5b**. We the both soloed Whaup Edge VS 4b** to finish the day. All the routes we did today were excellent and I would highly recommend a visit to the crag if you have not been before.

Elliot on Index Variation VS 5a**

Almscliff Classics

2011-10-03T09:29:00.000-07:00

John chillin' before the crux

I met John at Almscliff today to back a few routes and enjoy the good weather before it turns bad. John was psyched to push himself after his Yosemite trip, and Big Greeny E3 6a*** was on his radar. This is one of the big 3 have not done yet, so I was more than happy to give it a bash. John had abseiled down to see if it was dry etc. and was going to boulder around to warm up, but my over keen attitude saw me tying in thinking I would just give it a bash. Steady climbing takes you to a good hands off rest before you commit to the crux up the headwall. After a quick shake I was into the crux and happy to find positive crimps which suited me to a T. I would say this is the easiest of the 3 E3's here. John then went for the flash, but his head beat him with only 1 tricky move to go, but he took the fall with pride and was full of confidence on his next go and crushed it.

John pulling through the crux of The Big Greeny

We moved around to black wall where I fancied 'Arries' Ook.E4 6a**. This has a bold, delicate and technical start which leads you to gear at 2/3 height. Here it changes style to become big steep moves to join the finish of Black Wall Eliminate. A great route.

Trying to work out the best way to use the undercut through the crux

Starting up the steep upper section

Pulling through the last hard move

To wrap things up we did a bit of bouldering. Making rapid ascents of the Gypsy E3 6a/V3* and some of the eliminates on Morrell's Wall.

No One Wept or Alec Trench

2011-10-01T13:33:00.000-07:00

No One Wept For Alec Trench E5 6a*** had been on my tick list since I moved back South and saw a pic in the Lancs guide. Unfortunately, Egerton is a bit of a forgotten quarry, but has some gems worth putting some effort into. Elliot had done all the hard work and spent a day cleaning the line and practicing it on a top rope, so it was primed for me to come over and flash it. I had a wait for Elliot, who kindly offered to belay this evening, so thought I would repay his hard work and clean Ice Cold Acid Test E4 6a***. This route looked right up my street, crimpy wall climbing with no real hard moves and the crux looked low down. Needing a warm up, I soloed this which was awesome, and very easy for the grade.

Elliot turned up and was psyched. I had already climbed up and clipped the first runner and climbed back down (over keen during my wait). The other couple of bits of gear were in from Elliot's session yesterday and are all placed from ledges, so there was no sense in replacing them. I cracked on and was at the top pretty quick. The climbing very straight forward and again very easy for the grade. Probably only F6b and the crux one move of hard 5c. This did not stop the route being outstanding and worth the drive over.

Making the crux moves

Elliot then led the route smoothly and also flashed Ice Cold Acid Test. A good couple of hours spent.

I apologies for the pale body in the video and pics.

Aberdeen Sea Cliffs

2011-09-30T08:10:00.000-07:00

Starting at Johns Heugh

Neil on Jaded Ledge Lizard

I have been up North on holiday with Emma visiting friends. This meant that I had a couple of days to bag a few routes on the sea cliffs near Aberdeen, which would be a first for me. Neil took me to Johns Heugh on Tuesday, which is a steep schist crag that it partially tidal. Unfortunately, conditions were not the best, which took the toll on me. Steep burly climbing is not my strong point at the best of times, and defo not when it is wet. I started up Jaded Ledge Lizard E4 5c* and picked my way past the crux before the wet holds, lack of warm up and steepness led me to the decision to bin it. Neil had a few grades in hand and led the route instead. After this it was starting to dry up a touch, so Neil also led the E5 6b* direct version as well. Both routes had great climbing on them, loads of gear and steep climbing, but technically quite straight forwards. We headed home and decided to go for granite the next day, hoping for not as steep to give me a chance.

Me on Cirrhosis

Wednesday took us to South Cove where we were hoping to climb on Red Wall in the Red Hole area. Again this was a little damp still, but Hospital Wall was in good shape and had a few good lines on it. We Warmed up with Neil leading Torn Ligaments E2 5c which offered some nice climbing. After abseiling down to see if the gear was ok. I led Cirrhosis E4 6a***. This is meant to be a bold route, but was well protected by many RP's (safety in numbers). The climbing was outstanding, technical and quite sustained through the crux. To wrap things up, Neil led Exploding Laxative E5 6a*. This was the very similar to Cirrhosis and about the same grade, until you moved to the arete at the top. Here the climbing was no harder, but required a good head to compose yourself and commit.

Neil on Explosive Laxative

Overall, a good couple of days and I am keen to explore more of the crags once I do a bit more bouldering.

A Bit of Heptonstall

2011-09-21T12:30:00.000-07:00

Tom on Bulls Crack

With a better forecast today, Rich and Tom came down to Heptonstall for their first visit. This suited me as I seem to be fading from doing too much. Rich started us off cruising up Fairy Steps Direct VS 4c**. My end of the rope only had 1 runner near the top so I went up Cream E4 6a* instead. I led this over 10 years ago, so it was quite nice to climb it again today. Tom then led Main Line VS 4c* and Rich Curving Crack VS 4c**. Tom pick up the pace with a good lead of Bulls Crack HVS 5a***. Rich then put in a solid performance on Thin Red Line E2 5b***. After faffing about trying to get a runner to sit properly on Demarera, I ditched it and led Brown Sugar E2 5c**. The rain came as forecast, but a good day had been had. A few days off is needed to get rid of the aches and pains.

Rich moving through the crux on Thin Red Line

Rich moving in to the easier ground

The Worst Crag in Lancashire

2011-09-20T13:56:00.000-07:00

There was an improving forecast today, so I went over to Bolton hoping to climb at Wilton. Unfortunately, the weather did not improve as quickly as forecast, so we ended up driving to a few random crags in search of dry rock. This took us to the worst crag in Lancashire. A recently developed crag called Jumble, which would probably been best left alone. We tried an E3 that has a boulder problem start. Not terrible moves, but really dirty. Even as a wet weather venue you should just poke yourself in the eye instead.

A couple of pics to fool you into thinking it is worth a visit.

Learn to Lead Weekend

2011-09-19T08:13:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend I have been down in North Wales running a learn to lead course for James and Alex. The aim was to use the mountain crags in the Ogwen valley, but the weather was not kind to us. We did however, get a tan on Holyhead mountain over the 2 days.

Alex on Hat VDiff

James on Hat VDiff

During the 1st day we covered placing and grading runners (wires and hexes), then moved on to use these to construct a belay. Once we were happy with this, the step to leading was not to big. Both James and Alex already lead indoors, so we me next to them on a rope, and climbing with a few grades in hand, we could all focus and enjoy the learning experience. Both did extremely well leading 2 pitches on VD each, one in a multi pitch context.

James focused on Black Owen VDiff

Alex high on Slippers VDiff

James backing up his cam on Tempest S 4a*

After an attempt to go into Idwal, we where back at Holyhead in the sunshine to escape the rain. Again this worked out very well, with both Alex and James leading some solid VDiffs which were 35m in length. They were both keen to try something a little harder on the second. so they followed me up the classic VS 4c*** Black and Tan. To finish the day off, James put in a top effort to lead Tempest Severe 4a* with a little support from me. this rounded off the weekend very well.

Alex enjoying the view from the top of Holyhead mountain

Finger Therapy with the Numbers

2011-09-15T13:45:00.000-07:00

Pete on Mattahorn Arete

Today I met up with Pete at Almscliff with the veiw off doing a little bit of climbing to see how the finger was. There is still some swelling, but as I can now straighten it, I was hopeful. We cruised a range of easy problems, but the sun was warming things up a bit. I only had till 2pm, so we moved into the shade where Pete led the link up of Western Front E3 5c*** with No Mans Land E2 5b* to give a soft E4. Pete dropped the ropes and I then Flashed the route, pleasantly surprised that the finger was holding up. Unfortunately, I had to bail, but Pete went to do a few laps on Morrell's Wall.

Caley Calamity

2011-09-13T08:32:00.000-07:00

I met up with Dan and Tom at Caley today to hide out of the wind and try the Great Flake E6 6b***. All went well warming up on a variety of problems up to V6 before heading up to check out the flake.

Dan had dropped a rope down and give it a go, cleaning it a little and placing a couple of runners. I fancied trying to flash it with the gear in place. Things went well as I moved past the first runner and got set to clip the second just before the crux 2/3 up. As I pulled the rope up to clip, my foot popped and I was ejected. Dan stopped me just off the ground, but the rope was between my legs and he gave me a punch to the blollocks for good measure. If that was not bad enough, the rope had wrapped around my left hand when I came off and crushed my fingers when it took. That pretty much ended my day as my ringer finger started to swell and will no longer straighten. I am hoping it is just a bit of swelling and will fix quickly.

Dan and Tom (below) demonstrating some good slab faces

Tom cruising a nice V2

Dan and Tom moved on to more bouldering, sending a range of problems. I did put my shoes back on for one problem, a V4 with one hard long move. This gives my some hope that the finger will mend soon.

Dan sending a tricky V5

3 Peaks

2011-09-12T15:49:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend I worked another 3 peaks for Max Adventure. All went well with the quickest of the group finishing in 21 hours, Despite the weather forecast, we managed only one real soaking.

Well done everyone!

2011-09-04T14:22:00.000-07:00

Fred Zimmerman

2011-09-04T10:53:00.000-07:00

Above: Moving closer to the crux

I went to Caley today with Ed to climb Fred Zimmerman the proper way. The loss of the bolt has pushed the grade up to E6 6a**, with a skyhook now the crucial gear. I don't own a skyhook so thought that I could get away with a bulldog, but this would not sit on the placement properly. I did find an edge it would stay on, but is was even lower and poorer than the skyhook. Opting for max poor gear I placed one on the normal spot as well, but this caused problems on the ascent so was ditched. After a quick toprope to place and tape the runners down it was game on. It started to rain which flustered me a little, but after a quick minute I was all good and finished it off.

Below: On the jug and safe after the crux

Ed then cruised Route 1 VS 4c and Route 2 HVS 5a before we headed to the roadside. Ed flashed Bob's Bastard V1 and Chicken Heads V2. We then climbed a few classics before I on sight soloed Ephedrine E4 6a*.

With trashed skin we called it a day, pretty happy.

Raven Crag

2011-09-03T00:23:00.000-07:00

I have been in the lakes for a few days with the missus for a bit of down time together. We did give ourselves one day to do a bit of climbing, so went to Raven Crag in Langdale for the first time. A short walk in and a pub to finish with made this an easy choice.

Em has not climbed in a while, so we did Middlefell Buttress Diff***. This was pretty awesome ground for the grade and gave us a great start. Em was happy with the one route and happy to belay me on something else, so I gave Trilogy E5 6a*** a lash. I knew nothing and this route other than what I had read in the guidebook the day before when I bought it. So, it was great to have no preconceptions of where the hard bits might be etc. Em was not going to follow me, so I soloed up to the start of the route and got stuck in. Having 20m of rope out to start and the first bits of gear being low, meant I had quite a bit of rope drag. This seemed to make clipping the crux of the route. The guide mentioned a bold start, but I thought this was ok and found an excellent RP4 as well as other gear before reaching a good peg and bomber wire. the climbing was excellent and steady to the rest, then picked up nicely through the crux which was nippy for 6a. Once through the crux it eases nicely to the top, an awesome pitch.

Job done for the day, Beer O'Clock.

3 Peaks Challenge

2011-08-29T01:07:00.000-07:00

This weekend I have been on another 3 Peaks on behalf of Max Adventure. A group of 10 ladies from down south ready and raring to go, despite the not so good weather forecast.

All did very well completing the Ben in the guide time and enjoying dry weather all the way which was a bonus. Scafell saw us lose one to bad blisters gained on the Ben, and the driving rain, thunder and Lightening did not make getting out the van easy. Thankfully this only lasted for half an hour, then we were treated to the most amazing sky I have seen in a while and dry weather all the way. Snowdon gave us a dry ascent as well, while the tired legs made this a little slower than usual.

All in was a good weekend with many tired and sore legs, but happy faces.

Caley

2011-08-22T11:27:00.000-07:00

Above: In the crux of Tip Off

I met up with Ed and Elliot at Caley today to find a bit of shade to hide in. After yesterday, I was not feeling my best. so was keen for a chilled day.

We walked up to the main crag and warmed up on a few easy problems. In the shade the conditions were perfect. This got psyched to try High Noon E4/5 6a***. I started up it, but soon realised my body was not up for it today. Noonday Ridge E1 5b*** was still a good consolation. Elliot then led it and Ed followed. We then moved onto Tip Off E2 5b* which I led, then Elliot and Ed followed again. I also led Rip Off E3 6a* which climbs the arete. Ed follow this as well to continue his day of getting in some mileage.

Below: Getting further away from the gear and closer to the crux on Rip Off

Elliot was keen to try Fingerknacker Crack E3 6a* which is a steep and surprisingly powerful crack. Elliot made good progress up the boulder problem start, where the hardest moves kick in. This is unfortunately as far as he got. I had a go and found that my fingers are slightly smaller, this was to my advantage. After the hard moves to get into the upper crack, it was not too bad to finish. Feeling a lot warmer now, we threw a rope down Fred Zimmerman E4/6 6a/b. This used to have a bolt just before the crux which made it E4, now the hard section is protected by a skyhook which bumps it up to E6. Thinking this might be a horror, and not having a skyhook a quick toprope seemed fair. The crux was not too bad, a reachy hard 6a sequence I thought. We extended a loop down to the level of the bolt and led it like that as an E4, but I will defo go back and do it the right way.

We the soloed a few HVS's to finish a good day.

Chee Tor Classics

2011-08-22T01:30:00.000-07:00

Today I met Pete Harris, Pete Brown, Dave and Ben at the usual spot to come up with a plan. Chee Tor was decided, so we bundled into one car and made are way across. It was much drier today than last week, so I was pretty keen to get on something tricky. There was also a lot of other folks at the crag today which was great to see.

Mr Harris started us off coolly leading Meditation E1 5b***, whilst Ben led Approaching E2 5b*.

Above: Ben on Approaching

Below: Me on Midnight Summer Dream

It had started to warm up so I decided to get straight on Midnight Summer Dream E5 6a** before it was too warm. It also looked slabby, so I thought that I would be warmed up enough. I was very wrong about the slabby part. The climbing was excellent, but extremely dirty. I had to clean pretty much every hold of dirt, dust, leaves and cobwebs as I went, which meant I was over gripping and getting more pumped than I should have. After the tricky bold start the gear was excellent all the way, as was the continually sustained and technical climbing. I did take a good fall off the crux when I missed the small pocket I was going to and my hand slipped of the poor dirty nob I was holding, gutted. It went fine the next go as it was not that hard, just dirty.

Mr Brown then cruised Sergeyenna E1 5b** and Dave Hergiani E2 5b*. I lost track of Ben and Dave after this but think that they climbed Spintered Perspex E3 6a** and Match of the Day E2 5c*.

Above: Dave on Hergiani

My focus had switched to the Numbers as he was trying to onsight pitch 1 of Apocalypse E4 6a,5c*** which gets E3 in its own right. Unfortunately, the body was not as willing as the mind today, which is normally how it is for me. So Pete retreated from the crux . We needed the gear back, so I set off. Longer legs and reach deffinately makes the crux a little easier. The climbing was not that physical, so I cracked on up the second pitch as well. This was outstanding and committing climbing with the gear hard won. This was pretty clean as a team had climbed it

before us.

Above & Below: Me on Apocalypse

Completely knackered we made the walk back to the car with a few good routes in the bag.

CWA Training

2011-08-19T01:07:00.000-07:00

Over the last 2 days Dan and I have been running a CWA Training course for Harrogate Climbing Centre. Thursday was spent at Harrogate where we covered all aspects of personal climbing, coaching and also introduced the abseil module.

Today we visited Energise in York to see a council ran facility that offers a different challenge when working. Here we covered all the group management and problem avoidance aspects of the award, before revisiting the abseil module again.

Overall, the 2 days has run very smoothly and there will be a few more CWA holders in the near future.

Ticking Classics at Stanage

2011-08-17T12:09:00.000-07:00

Above: Tony on the Tippler

I met up with Dan, Pete and Tony and headed to Stanage today. After digging out a few to many tree stubs over the last 2 days, I was not holding out for a big day. As always, my desire to get the best routes I can done took over.

Dan started us off nipping up Good Friday HVS 5b*, which was one of the few routes at the grade he had not done. It had some nice climbing and good gear and started things off nicely. Pete and Tony climbed Rubber Band VS 4b** which looked pretty good for the grade. I then led Wuthering E2 5b***. This is an outstanding route and takes in some awesome ground, without ever being too tricky.

Dan and I headed down to the Unconquerable area whilst Pete and Tony dispatched Cave Arete HVS 5a*** and BAW's Crawl HVS 5a***. Dan had unfinished business with the Left, but it was taken. I got a bit over excited and onsighted Calvary E4 6a***. This is an amazing route with hard won gear and sustained technical climbing throughout. Dan the cruised the Left Unconquerable E1 5b*** and Monday Blue E2 5b*.

We made are way back to find the Numbers and Tony and have a look at Black Hawk Bastian E3 5c**. Dan worked pretty hard, but could not work out the best way to round the roof and eventually binned his attempt. I took advantage of Dan's gear and did the route. It was really awkward, but short lived once you worked it out. Tony worked hard and climbed the Tippler E1 5b***.

For some strange reason I then did the Unprintable E1 5c**, which was an awesome battle. Pete led the Dangler E2 5c**, and Dan put in a superb effort in at the end of the day to flash it as well. Fully battered, we retreated content with a few E points in the bank.

Adrenaline Rush and a Bit of Work at Caley

2011-08-14T11:54:00.000-07:00

I was working at Caley this evening, finishing up a intro to rock course. With the weather good and the temperature not too high, I thought I would get a route in. I through a rope down Psycho E5/6 6b***, but just could not touch the crux. After a few tries I changed my focus. I had hoped to onsight Adrenaline Rush E5 6b***, but my quick plat on Psycho had put me off. I climbed it clean on my first 2 tries whilst belaying myself on a gri gri, so the solo was on. A quick break and the route was dispatched.

Half an hour later my clients arrived. We focused on coaching movement and footwork on a range of boulder problems, whilst refreshing the rigging on some of the higher one. Rosie and Andy seem to have taken a lot on board, and now have a good platform to build on.

Chee Tor

2011-08-13T11:50:00.000-07:00

I met up with Martin and John at the Outside cafe in Hathersage to make a decision on where to climb today. Chee Tor was the venue of choice, this was my first so I was pretty psyched.

Below: John on Meditation

The routes were a little damp in the bottom quarter, but fine once you got past that point. Martin started us off leading Alfresco HVS 5b. Despite having no stars, this had some good climbing once you got past the damp, dirty start. John then led the classic Meditatiion E1 5b*** which has sustained technical climbing with excellent rests and even better gear. It was my turn and fancied the classic Ceramic E4 5c***. The route is continually technical, getting harder with height, but enough gear to be safe. The crux is at the top top end of the 5c bracket, and the dusty holds add to the spice. A must if you visit the crag and this is your grade. Martin and John both led Hergiani E2 5b*, which is another good route. I fancied the classic Midnight Summer Dream, but time was not on my side. Next time.

Above: Me onsighting Ceramic

There are still loads of good routes to do here, so I will be back. A massive plus is the fact it is a Saturday and we were the only folks at the crag.

Pics to come when Martin sends them through.

Irish Sea Stacks

2011-08-10T04:16:00.000-07:00

Colm sent me a few pics of the stacks they have been climbing over in Ireland.

A Few Picks

2011-08-10T04:09:00.000-07:00

Above: Andy on Chip and Pin

Below: Neil on Coalition Crack

Below: Martin on Kirby Wall

Roost Take 2

2011-08-08T10:18:00.000-07:00

Andy, Neil and I went back to the Roost today with the aim of trying the Cartel E7 6c***. Andy was not climbing today and very kindly abseiled and brushed the route for us. Neil warmed up ticking the Indirect Start to Chip and Pin E5 6b***, which I climbed as well. It was time to get stuck into the challenge for the day, and Neil was up first. He made a fine job of onsighting Coalition Crack E5 6b*** to the rest before you move into the offwidth and easy ground. This is where the Cartel goes up the headwall. He spent a good while shaking out and trying to work out where to go, then the rain really started to come down, wetting the finishing holds. Neil made the sensible choice to finish Coalition Crack instead.

I had no doubt that flashing the Cartel was a bit of a dream, so I went to see how it was. I managed to get into the meat of the hard climbing but took numerous falls trying to finish what we think is the crux. A bit of work ground up might see this get ticked at some point.

Neil decided to save it for the flash and led Con dem Nation E6 6b*** instead. Narrowly missing out on the flash with a fall low down, but lowered off and led it cleanly next go. I followed the route to get the kit back and it was really greasy today, probably the worst condition I have climbed it in. A fine effort by Neil, who now only has a few routes to do at the crag. It has been great to see other folks climb these routes as well.

I'll try and sort some pics out of the last cpouple of days soon.

Malham Right Wing

2011-08-07T12:47:00.000-07:00

Neil and Andy had bailed from Wales yesterday and made there way up to mine. We went to the Roost yesterday where Andy Flashed Chip and Pin E5 6a***, and Neil flashed this as well as Sleepy Hollow E6 6b*** which all made superb viewing.

Today we went to Malham and we were joined by Martin. He led a good range of classic HVS's, Andy led Wombat E2 5c*** and followed Neil up Wind and Wuthering E3 5c**. I led Crossbones E2 5c*** and followed Neil up Articulated Loris E5 6a* to finish a good day despite the cold.

2 Crags in 1 Day

2011-08-05T11:03:00.000-07:00

Above: Dan following the 1st pith of Face Route

After being ill last week and failing to climb on Monday having still not recovered fully, I was keen to get back into it in the Dales today with Dan. We started out at Gordale warming up on one of the easy sport routes (not recommended). Face Route E3 5c,6a*** was next. I led the 1st pitch, which we both thought was the main event. Fantastic, intricate climbing which feels quite out there with the fixed gear now so poor. Dan swiftly led the 2nd pitch which was probably only VS to the 1 crux move. A bit of a let down really.

Above: Dan following the 1st pith of Face Route
Below: Dan setting off up the 2nd pitch

We then moved on to Malham to tick some classics. Dan made short work of Wombat E2 5c***, then turned his attention to Wind and Wuthering E3 5c**. He put in a sterling effort, but fatigue set in through the crux and the lob was taken. I then had a go with the extra benefit of Dan's gear. A bit of extra energy seemed to come back and this made the difference as I picked my way through the crux. A good route to finish the day.

Hoghton Quarry

2011-07-26T13:54:00.000-07:00

Above: Boadicea

Dan and I took a trip to Hoghton to check out the 3 star classics that have cleaned recently. Despite all the hard work that has been done, the routes are still dirty, but will improve massively with traffic. All I would say, is don't get on routes that are at your limit there at the moment.

We started off climbing Every Face Tells a Story HVS 5b**, which was dirty and bold in places. We both thought this route was poor until it joined Boadicea. I then led Boadicea E2 5c***, which again was dirty in the bottom half. This made the climbing feel a bit trickier than it was, but the route was still outstanding through its entire 37m. Dan then had a go, but got a bit spooked by the dirty and insecure nature of the route and lowered off at the second crux.

Mandarin E2 5b,5b*** was up next. I led this in one big pitch which is the best way I'm told. This was the cleanest route of the day, and simply awesome! A must do route that packs loads of interest in to it's 37m. Dan also led this in good style.

Below: Dan on Mandarin

We finished the day off climbing Rhododendron Buttress E2 5c***. Again a bit dirty, but outstanding climbing which just keeps on going. Both of us thought that the climbing was only 5b, but a lot of it.

All the routes that have been cleaned need more traffic, so you will have to persevere with the dirt for now. It is worth a visit for these classic E2's that have quite an adventurous feel about them. Definitely one of the wilder feeling venues I have been to.

Intro to Rock

2011-07-25T10:00:00.000-07:00

Above: Andy getting stuck in.

Yesterday I was at Almscliff running the second day of an Intro to Rock Climbing course for Rosie and Andy. This course also includes the teaching of rigging bottom and top ropes as the couple want to be able to look after themselves whilst they make the transition for indoors to out.

We had covered a lot of rigging on our first session at Ilkley in the rain, so time was saved at the start of the day and more time was spent climbing and focusing on movement basics. Rosie and Andy climbed most of the classic easy routes on the Lower Man, with a bit of bouldering thrown in to coach some footwork. After a spot of lunch, the theme of Rosie and Andy rigging continued as we switched our attention to some chimnies (you don't get many of these inside). We wrapped up the day with a focused rigging session to cement the teachings of the 2 days. We still have an evening session to do, but the 2 days have been a success.

A Week in the Lakes

2011-07-23T10:46:00.000-07:00

I have spent a week based in the Striding Edge Hostel working with a group from Bolton Lads and Girls Club. This is the adventure week within the Young Citizen's Programme the club is running. We started the week with a bit of team building on Monday, before getting stuck into main activities.

On Tuesday we climbed in the morning, then went to Angle Tarn Beck for a gyll scramble. There had been a bit of rain in the morning, so the water level made it an excellent trip.

Wednesday was all about their expedition up Helvellyn. After pack and prep in the morning, we made are way up to Red Tarn where we set up camp. We then pushed on toward Swiral Edge, but it was unfortunately a bit much for one of the young people. Instead we retreated and walked up Catseye Cam. As we returned to camp it started to rain, but had cleared up by morning. We took a steady walk back down to the hostel for breakfast and to clean up. Once everyone was fed and watered, all kt away, we turned our sights on Glenridding beck for another scramble. It was a great way to finish off the day.

Friday morning was spent cleaning the hostel and the group leaders reviewing the week before they got picked up. not a bad week in all.

I got my climbing fix in this week, with an afternoon visit to the Roost to finish off the Senete E6 6b***. This only leaves the 2 E7's to do. Better pull my finger out.

Wilton 1 & 3

2011-07-14T10:15:00.000-07:00

Above: Tony leading Central Crack

After the weeks climbing so far, I was planning on an easy day following folks and taking pictures at Wilton. Things started well in 3, following Dan up Shiver's Arete E1 5b*** and Central Crack HVS 5a***. Pete and Tony climbed these in the reverse to us. My psyche got the best of me, and before I knew it I was fighting hard trying to onsight Constable's Overhand E5 6b***. It was a bit too much for me today and I blew the last hard move. It went well next try as always.

Above & Below: Dan on Shiver's Arete

We moved venues to 1 for some longer routes now that the sun had moved around. Pete and Tony went off and climbed Cameo E1 5a***, but Dan fancied Black Mamba E4 6b**. He put in a fine effort, but came off at the crux. After deciding it was not really for him today, I led it on his gear. I had already done the route, but it was very dirty on the top holds before the groove. Pete and Tony returned to try a couple of the route next to us. Pete made a awesome flash of Master

Spy E4 6a***, which I followed. Tony coolly led Wipeout E2 5b***. Dan also then flashed Master Spy, which he had to fight for.

Above: Dan on Master Spy

For the final routes of the day we moved down to the Prow. Pete and Tony climbed Wombat Chimney E2 5b*, whilst Dan led Max E3 5c***. I then led Max on Dan's gear, not a bad way to finish my 5 day climbing stretch.

Too Tired for Kilnsey

2011-07-13T13:07:00.000-07:00

Mhairi and I went to Kilnsey today hoping that the tiredness would wear off once we started climbing. Unfortunately, it didn't. Mhairi spent a bit of time working on Ground Effect 7b**, and got all the moves down, but not enough left in the tank to tick it today. I decided to see if Comedy 7c*** felt any better than the go I had a few weeks ago. When I put the draws in last time, the crux move felt beyond me so I binned it straight away. This was frustrating, as it was only one move. Today was better. Despite being tired from the weeks climbing, I managed the route in 2. It will hopefully go next visit, so the hour or so I have put in will not go to waste. After a couple of hours we called it a day, rest is needed.

The Roost

2011-07-12T11:28:00.000-07:00

We went back the the Roost today so Mhairi could finish off what was started yesterday. She made short work of the route first go today, E5 in the bag. I tried the Senete E6 6b***, which is the last of the E6's I have to do here. It was a battle first go up and dogged my way. After a good rest I got back on it, getting 4 moves from the top but failed when I could not sort my feet out. Gutted and with trashed hands and forearms, I will have to come back another day. Mhairi then flashed the Indirect Start to Chip and Pin to tick her second E5. A pretty good all round.

A Bit of Traddin'

2011-07-11T11:10:00.000-07:00

After all the travelling in the minibus last week, I was not overly keen to drive to the Peak this morning. Mhairi was up for improving her trad climbing, and there is more than enough locally to keep you busy. Is was not too warm when we started off a Heptonstall, managing a rapid ascent of Main Line VS 4c*, before Mhairi cruised a Thin Red Line E2 5b***. It had warmed too much to get the best out of the day there, so we moved over to the Roost. I was not feeling on form today so climbed Chip and Pin and the Indirect Start as well both E5 6a***. Mhairi had not led E5 before, and Chip and Pin is a great starter. After an awesome onsight attempt, Mhairi was a little spent and didn't manage to tick the route today.

We will be back tomorrow.

Troller's Gill

2011-07-10T13:25:00.000-07:00

After Scafell last night I was not going to bother climbing myself today, but just belay Mhairi. However, I got psyched to try and onsight Angel Delight 7a+**. I got to the last hard move and realised that I had forgot the draws I needed, had a few miss reads and fell off. It was pretty straight forward next go. Mhairi swifty dispatched Haslam on her first go today, then flashed Angel Delight. She wrapped up a good day by onsighting Barguest 7a***. To the Peak for some trad tomorrow.

Scafell Pike

2011-07-09T13:22:00.000-07:00

After Watson's left at lunch time, I had the afternoon off before meeting up with a Max Adventure group at Scafell who were on a 3 Peaks. They did a great job getting up and down in 3 hours and 10 mins.

George Watson's Summer Rock Trip

2011-07-08T12:33:00.000-07:00

This week I have been working on the Watson's Summer Rock Trip in Yorkshire. Monday was a short day at Warton Small Quarry to start things off. The kids did very well climbing a range of routes up to VS. The weather was fantastic, but the forecast for the rest of the week was not so good. Despite the forecast we managed to climb everyday.

Tuesday we went to Almscliff and started off on Lower Man, where we ticked off a good range of routes. In the afternoon we moved up top and worked on some of the awkward cracks to try and broaden their experience. Over all, everyone did pretty well and learned a lot through the day.

Wednesday took us to Ilkley, but the weather was not quite as good as forecast. Despite this, we climbed a few good routes and rigged a Tyrolean traverse across the quarry to salvage the day.

After a day off on Thursday that the group spent in Windermere and Kendal, we went to Caley for Friday's climbing installment. We started the day with some bouldering in the playground as well as climbing the Morris slab routes. As the showers came, we moved up to the main crag and rigged a few classic chimney's that were staying dry. This was another chance for the kids to try some techniques that they would not get in the climbing wall.

This wrapped up the week for another year. France next year, Awesome!

Angel Heart

2011-07-07T13:16:00.000-07:00

Mhairi and I had a day off from our work with Watson's, so went to Troller's as I had unfinished business. Mhairi made short work flashing The Jim Grin 6c+/7a***, then had a few shots on Haslam 7b***. Unfortunately, the week's work was taking it's toll on the energy levels.

I spent my second day on Angel Heart 7c+**, but was still struggling to link the last hard move. I worked out a better way to do the move right at the end of the day and thought I would not have enough left. To my surprise, on my last go of the dayI was through the crux and cruising to the chain before I knew it. A great day.

CWA Assessment and New Routes by Steve Maclure at ROKT

2011-07-02T12:19:00.000-07:00

Today I ran a CWA Assessment for Harrogate Climbing Centre. Carol and Giles both did really well and passed both the CWA and the Abseil Module as well.

I then stopped off at ROKT on the way home and climbed a few of the new routes set by Steve Maclure yesterday. It is fair to say that they are all very steally for the grades, but the climbing is outstanding. I only climbed the 7a, 7b, 7c and 7c+ (with a few rests thrown in), but they all had super sustained climbing that covered a massive distance across the steep wall. Get down and get on them folks.

Troller's Gill

2011-07-01T09:01:00.000-07:00

Above: Elliot on The Jim Grin

I made a return to Troller's today with Elliot, with the intentions of working on Angel Heart 7c+**. After my quick go at the end of my last visit, I was hoping that I could make good progress. After warming up, Elliot made a superb flash of Jim Grin 6c+/7a***, for his hardest to date. I then got stuck into Angel Heart, and surprised myself climbing half way through the crux straight away. After a bit of trail and error, I had a sequence I thought would work and the redpoint was on.

Above & below: Working hard on Angel Heart

Elliot shifted his focus to Haslam 7b*** and started to work out sequences through the crux's. I had a couple of good redpoint attempts, but fell both times 1 move from finishing the hard climbing, maybe next time! Powered out I shifted my attention to Hoodoo Guru 7b** (another stiff one) hoping to onsight it. The route shares the same boulder problem start as Angel Heart, but the crux climbs an extremely thin groove straight after. I had to fight a bit in the groove, but once through it the rest was not too bad.

Elliot then managed to send Haslam on his last go of the day to tick his first 7b. Good work young man.

Ticking Classics

2011-06-30T07:14:00.001-07:00

I had a quick visit to Trowbarrow Quarry yesterday afternoon to tick off a few classics. Starting off with Sleeping Sickness E2 5c**, I then moved on to Sense of Doubt. E4 6b** in my Rockfax guide, but massively overgraded. It has great climbing at a steady E3 5c/6a. The main wall was next where I worked quickly to climb Harijian VS 4c***, Hallow Earth HVS 5a**, A Touch of Class E2 5c**, Major Tom E2 5c** to be back in time to watch Murry cruise through to the semi's.

Early Start at Ilkley

2011-06-26T04:34:00.000-07:00

I was up and out pretty sharpish this morning to try and take advantage of the cooler morning before the heat kicked in. It was a little warmer than I would have liked when I got to Ilkley, but I thought I would see how sweaty the Guillotine was. This quality E6 6b** Arete was not too bad after a brush and chalk up. A few quick toproes to make sure I coukld deal with the warmth and it was Thunder Cats are GOOO! I was pretty gripped making the crux moves as you move right around the arete, but with the sun behind the clouds at the this point it felt pretty good. Result.

I noticed that Propeller Wall E5 5c was still in the shade. This is a very bold lead with terrible gear and I had backed off this a couple of weeks ago. I abseiled down and checked the moves, which were fine when you knew where to go. A quick rest and I soloed this as well. Psyched that I had ticked a couple of good routes I went about onsight soloing a couple of other routes that looked pretty good. Peg Crack HVS 5a*, Peg Wall E1 6a, Little John E1 5b* and Short Circuit E2 5c* rapped up the session.

It was 26 degrees when I left and I am now off out on the road bike forthe first time in ages.

Easy Day at Heptonstall

2011-06-24T06:48:00.000-07:00

Above: Brown Sugar E2 5c**

Today I met up with Ed and Phil and went to Heptonstall. After yesterdays efforts at Troller's, I was keen for an easy day on good routes I had done before. I started us off leading the surprisingly good Main Line VS 4c**. Phil Then led his first HVS in Bull's Crack HVS 5a***. Moving well over the tricky ground, it proved to be a good challenge which he dispatched pretty swiftly.

Below: Phil on Bull's Crack

Ed decided to try Brown Sugar E2 5c**. He did pretty well, put came up short at the stiff crux through the over lap. Whilst he recovered from the pump I led the route, feeling the tired arms through the crux. I'm never disappointed with the quality of these routes. Phil made a valiant effort to follow, but got a bit too pumped. Ed then followed the route, armed the knowledge of where to go this time it went a lot smoother.

Above: Through the Crux of Brown Sugar

To finish off we went to the left hand outcrop where Phil led Lumber Vertebrae VS 4c**, which is much better than it looks. I soloed the last couple of the routes I had not done on this buttress to end the day. A nice chilled day.