Thursday, 11 August 2016

Catch up

After injuring my finger last November, it has been struggling to recover fully.  I've had time out climbing, but it just doesn't feel right.  So I've taken a bit of time out from pulling.

I went to the wall the other day and felt weak, but not quite as bad as I thought. It will take a while to regain the strength I've lost, but I seem to have a reasonable base fitness.

Work has been ticking over with route setting and a good range of NGB courses.

Friday, 22 April 2016

Quick Wilton 4 Hit

I managed to grab an hour in Wilton 4 yesterday afternoon after work.  I started off flashing Cold Emotions E4 5c*.  This was pretty straight forward to a wiggy last couple of mores.  The landing was ok with a couple of pads.
High on Cold Emotions 

Lady Ice E5 6b* was next.  If I had been with someone else, I'd like 5o have tried to on sight it.   However, I'd have blown the start. After one quick go on a rope, I had it sorted, so decided to solo it.  It was definitely exciting, but a good hands off rest halfway helped break it up.  An excellent route.

Just the harder E5's left to tick off in there now, hopefully get them done this year.

Sunday, 10 April 2016

Catching Up

I have been pretty busy since last blogging, so thought I'd do a quick update.  There has been a run of NGB'S lately, with an SPA assessment, CWA Training and CWA assessment.  Adding to that the usual route setting, a family holiday, there's not been too much time for anything else.
Not for weasel's 

That said I did manage to get a climb in one day.  I was nice to test the finger out properly, as it has been taking a while to recover.  I climbed Fool's Gold E5 6b at Mytholm Steeps Quarry. For the most part this was straight forward.  But the crux at the top was super sequence specific.  Nice and safe though.

I then moved on to the edge and had a go at Not For Weasel's 7b+.  I'd tried this a few times on and off in the past, but could not suss the start.  However, this time armed with some video beta, I was reasonably straight forwards once you knew how.

Hopefully was the school holidays are over, I might get a bit more climbing in.

Wednesday, 16 March 2016

Work at Widdop

This afternoon I was at Widdop with the lads from Bolton School doing some bouldering.   The lads did a good mixture of problems and all managed to challenge themselves.

Barney put a good bit of effort into Pool Traverse and got really close, but just couldn't stick the end of the traverse.   Adam did a great job getting the send.

Tuesday, 15 March 2016

Font Prep Day

Barney sending Baxter's Wall 

On Sunday I was out bouldering at Wimbery with students from Bolton School as part of their preparation for a up coming trip to Font.

After short walk we started on the Sugar Loaf boulder.  Folks did really well and sent a range of problems. Barney, Anosh and Zoe did a great job to send Baxter's Wall V3, and young Bella sent a tricky Left ArĂȘte V2.  Everyone did well managing the
Great send of Baxter's Wall
 We then moved over to the Sloping Top boulder were everyone tried hard on some tricky problems.  Again Zoe, Barney and Anosh did a great job sending the super sloppy V4 arete.

Bella cruising
After some slab work by the stream we moved to the Tank.  Here all did well on some highball problems. I'd have to say that Bella was the start here, simply being so small and totally cruising the high slab and technical V2 arete. Real smear or disappear territory.

Tired arms brought the end of the session,but a great day was had by all.

Monday, 7 March 2016

Mountaineering Weekend

My weekend was spent with Paul and Stuart.  After discussion we came up with a plan and headed up toward SCNL to find some steepish ground and firm snow.  Once we found this, we refreshed some skills, before moving onto snowcraft.  This proved really useful and brought in some good discussion too.  We then moved onto some mixed ground and looked at introducing pitched climbing with leader placed protection.  Stuart lead from a good rock belay up some interesting grade I ground, to finish on a snow slope.  This was perfect for putting into practice some of the snowcraft and using a bucket seat in real context.

We then descended and used a bollard to negotiate a steepish descent.  Once back at the accommodation we went over some building belays etc. in preparation for Sunday.

Paul leading up the steep corner

Nice belay position

Spring like conditions

Yesterday we climbed the Zigzags I, with Stuart and Paul managing themselves up safely using a rope.  We even threw in a little retreat and re ascent too.  It was a great way for me to finish a good week.

Some missing pics for Alex and Andys week

Alex engrossed in Pitch 1 of Minus 2 Gully

Andy starting up the Curtain

Andy enjoying the ice on the Curtain in the sun

Andy embracing the start of the ming on Original Summer Route Direct

Alex approaching the belay

Andy embracing the ming

Alex on the crux of the normal Original Summer Route