DIY is Rubbish

After spending part of yesterday putting the first coat of paint on the kitchen walls I was hoping the weather forecast was wrong. I am still trying to shake the cold I last week, but a super psyched for trad at the moment. Simon bailed this morning so I thought I'd finish the kitchen, but the weather was staying dry. I decided to go a try out my new bouldering mat at Rosyth Quarry. I did my usual circuit, soloing all the routes up to E1 along with a few laps of Philistine. I had never done If pigs could fly or The Stinking Swordsman before, so had a look. I got to the top of If Pigs and realised that the top out was a little over grown and the mat was in the wrong place. A bit gripped and with both hands on the top a reversed thrusters and down climbed the route which was a bit pumpy. The Swordsman was nails. This has to be one of those classic scottish headpointed routes that has a grade that does not feel right. I think I have been going well over the last few weeks, but can safely say I was shut down today. I'll try again, but at the grade can't justify top roping it and leading it might be even harder. I just need to man up I think and learn how to pull harder.

All in a good couple of hours, 30 routes and back to more painting.

Chilled Trad

Me finishing the crux of Chisel

Me high on Chisel

Andy starting Slot Shot

I went to the Cambusbarron out quarry today with Greg and Andy to have chilled out day. We did a few of the E1's to warm up, then Greg fancied trying Chisel. This E4 finger crack has a short crux off the deck, but it packs a punch. This is style of climbing that Greg is trying to improve in, so he was not too disappointed after falling with 1 hard move left. I fancied an eliminate that I had not done before called Kansas City Shuffle. The climbing was quiet good, but that was because it was mostly on routes that have stars already. This route only had 4 independant moves, but was alright. Andrew then climbed Chime in good style, a stiff little E2. The first runner was still in Chisel so I climbed that as I had not done it for a while. This spurred Greg on to get back on it. He made short work of it this time. Andrrew then led his first E3, Slot Shot, which was a good finish to the day.

Andy finishing Slot Shot

Greg on Chisel

Greg half way

Rat Race

Me on RatRace

Today I went to Upper Cave with Greg, Mhairi and Andy. I wanted to try Silk Purse, but soon realised as I put in the clips that I was not over my touch of man flu. I opted to do a little trad instead so I might feel a bit better later in the week. Rat Race is a classic of the crag, so seemed like a good option today. I had failed a few years ago, but it felt a whole lot easier today. I even found a cheaky no hands rest. Marjory Razorblade brought me back down to earth as I fell off the last hard move. Note to self, lazy jams don't work as well.

Just After the crux

Armscliff

I went to Armscliff with the wife today. It was very windy, with damp air which made the friction pretty poor. We climbed Fluted Columns first, which was a battle in the wind. Em was not enjoying the wind so we found a little shelter on Black Wall Eliminate. This had some excellent pumpy climbing, but was a little low in the technical grade. I finished of with a short bouldery route called Kitson Did It First. This went second go, but was very hard in the conditions today.

Grit Expectations

Over the last 3 days I have been down to the peak district with Neil and Ross. We headed down on Tuesday, stopping at Back Bowden Doors (not quite grit, but good all the same) to break up the journey and max the climbing time. We started off with some cheecky solos of a few short routes on the far right of the crag. This gave Ross the chance to find his feet a little, making short work of Hazelrigg Wall and Pinup. After that Neil faced his slab phobia by on sighting On the Verge (just). I then did the only version of the Tube I had not done, wjich was the direct. Ross warmed up his leading skills on the Arches, before flashing his first E4 (Lost Cause) afetr me and Neil, which was a sterling effort. I finished my day off by climbing Uncouth Youth and Neil did Right to Reply. A top day to start the mini trip.

Wednesday saw us waking up in the deluxe accomodation of the Froggatt national trust carpark. After a bacon butty in Calver we walked in to the crag and stranely seemed to be staring at Strapadictomy. It was Ross's lead and we needed to warm up so he led Strapiombante. After traversing a little and a feeble stretching, Neil decided to strap it on. He put in a fine display before coming off before the pocket. I went next and had a similar fate, as did Ross. Neil got it after a couple of shots, and Ross second go. The boy is a machine. I had what I can only say is a valient attempt, failing 2 moves from the top, but it will go next time. We then turned are attention to some of the classic slabs. Three pebble slab, Long John's Slab and Great slab, all excellent routes. The extra energy kept on coming as we did Brown's Eliminate, the direct and the Neil did Oedipus tell your Mother.

On Thursday Tony came over to join us at Burbage South. After walking along the crag saying how hard everything looked we where by Life Assurance and the Knock. Whilst everyone was trying to get psyched I manned up a got on Life Assurance. After going up and down trying to commit to do the last 2 moves i finally bottled it. After stripping the route , Tony and Neil were trying the Knock. They said they had not committed to the move across, so I thought I would have a go. Before I knew it I was pulling over the top, a quality route. Neil and Tony made short work of it after me. Ross then led ? Crack in fine style. Tony wanted to have a look at Pebble Mill so we all went to check it out. He made an awesome on sight solo which was great veiwing. This spurred me on to have a go, but with a rope. I found a reasonable cam after the crux which made me happy to bash on. the top section was straight forward, but a little bold. A great day to finish.

An amazing few days and we can't wait to get back.

Dispatched

I was at upper cave today with Andrew and Mhairi to have a second crack at Silk Teddies. Having had a week or so in the wall, I was hoping it would go quickly today. Putting the draws in felt desperate, and my hopes had taken a hit. After a good rest I got on the redpoint and before I knew I was through the bit I was finding hard to clip. The thought that it was in the bag can in to my head, I relaxed too much on the next hard move and was off. School boy error. As the others took their turns on their routes I had a good break and went again. This time I was fully focased and was soon clipping the chain, result. A good day which saw Andrew make good procress on hamish and Mhairi looks like she will get silk teddies next time.

A New Wave

The folks down at Edelrid have been pretty busy. They have developed a new range of shoes that consist of 4 diiferent models.

The Raven, hurricane (pictured), Tornado and Reptile.

I only have the Hurricanes at the moment, but can say that they are a well thought out shoe. These are presice and positive on small holds and the heel band make for an excellent, usable fit. With the price of shoes seemingly going up all over the ranges, these should make a good addition to folks bags.

There is also a new range of cragging cloths, crash pads ropes, harnesses and more that are well worth checking out.

Click on the Edelrid logo or DB Outdoor Systems to see more.