Halldale Quarry

Above: Approaching the Crux of Dark side of the Room 7a+*

The weather has been a lot better today, but there were showers forecast. These possible showers and the fact the Em is not overly keen to belay me on tricky trad routes (seems fair), meant a spot of bolt clipping was in order this morning. I was not going to be climbing all day, so a few good value routes that could be onsighted or ticked quickly would be great. Halldale Quarry seemed to fit the bill with routes of 22m and a couple of 7a+'s to try and onsight. This was probably another venue that I would probably only visit once, so it was all good.

A quick warm up on the only 3 star route in the guide, Burning Spirits 6b*** which has some nice easy climbing to the roof, then a short nippy crux up through it. I then started up Spooktakula 7a+**. Again this was pretty easy to the roof, where a bouldery crux and wet,dirty hold saw me blow the onsight. After a good brush the move was still tricky, but I could now pull on the crucial hold. Nice to get it second go.

After chilling out and looking at some fossils in the rocks around the bottom, i got on Dark Side of the Room 7a+*. I thought that this was the best route of the lot. Steady, but interesting climbing all the way to the crux, which was a massive reach to a hidden hold, which I failed to get and tried to pull through on a total horror. Failure!!! Again this route went second go.

Below: At a good rest before the crux of Dark Side of the Room

All in a few good routes, but onsighting here felt tricky due to the fact that the climbing was a little reachy and the holds a bit hidden.

Great Crack

I am on a break down in Matlock with the wife, so climbing is not a priority this week. That said I have to get my fix and there are some amazing crags here to get stuck into. Unfortunately, the weather has been heavy showers on and off, so I don't want to start up something tricky and have a epic. Instead, I thought I would go and climb Great Crack HVS 5a**** at Duke's Quarry. This is one of the Eastern Grit Top 50 climbs, and I am unlikely to drive down here to do this one route any other time, so now is perfect. Well except for the rain. The quarry is very overgrown and like venturing into the wilds, yet still very impressive. The route follows a outstanding crack for 30m on perfect jams through some good steepenings. We arrived an the route looked almost dry. At that point a thunderstorm started and the route was soaked in record time.

Above: Lovin' the rain and getting psyched

I was undeterred and started sorting the rope out to Em's amazement (she thinks I'm a little stupid and is probably right). The start was pretty hard work, but once past the first couple of moves it is relatively straight forward to the top. Despite the rain and water in the crack, the climbing was excellent. Sustained at the grade and very well protected (if you have a couple of gold camelot's), one I would recommend if you are in the area. Maybe wait for a good dry spell if this is your limit. Not surprisingly Em was not too fussed to second. So I stripped the route just in time for the rain to start and the sun come out.

Enough rain and ming for one day, we headed into Matlock for a brew.

Asthma UK 3 Peaks Challenge

This weekend I was working on a 3 Peaks for Asthma UK on behalf of Max Adventure. There were 55 participants taking part and raising money for this very important charity. As an Asthma sufferer, I was not even aware of the number of people that die each day as a result of Asthma. So any way that awareness can be raised the better.

Thankfully this week the weather has been kind. Cool and dry which helps massively with the temperature for walking, and keeps spirits high when your nice and dry. All teams managed to come in under the 24 hours and raise a massive amount of money for Asthma UK in the process.

Well done everyone.

The Kilnsey Burn

Above: Dan on Hardy Annual

As the temperature was back up, it was time to take the first trip of the season to Kilnsey. I met Dan, Pete and Tony there, hoping it would not be the usual first visit epic.

I have been making an effort to climb more steep things this year and was hoping for a quick tick of something a bit tricky. I started off putting the clips in Metal Guru 7c**, but found it had some hard moves on pockets which don't agree with my finger's. I bailed off this and turned my attention to Comedy 7c***, thinking it might be good to work my weaknesses. After a couple of goes on this, it was clear that I didn't have the guns, the Kilnsey shutdown had struck again.

Dan was making good progress on Hardy Annual 7b** and Pete had just redpointed it, so I thought I would give that a lash. With all Dan and Pete's beta I was psyched to flash the route and flip the of Kilnsey back in my favor. Pete and Tony climbed Dodger Direct E3 5c**, whilst Dan was working hard on his redpoint. He came frustratingly close, one hold away before sagging onto the rope. Unfortunately, the hard start had taken it's toll, but I'm sure it will go next time.

I was getting pretty tired, but thought it was about time I did The Directissima 6c***. A great route, but really suffering from over use as a warm up. Tony had a few goes on this as well, whist Pete also got shutdown on Comedy. I wrapped my day up climbing Face Value E5/7a+** and then Directissima again it can't get that more polished).

It's good to get shutdown and know what to work on, but nice to succeed every now and then at Kilnsey.

Coalition Crack

I was back at the Roost today with Elliot. Despite the rain over the last few days, the crag had held up well. The top of the crag is wet, but all the routes are climbable.

I warmed up leading Chip and Pin E5 6a*** which I now have wired, and climbed it a couple of times to get really warm. I was hoping to onsight Coalition Crack E5 6a*** today, so a good warm up was important. Elliot was trying the Indirect Start to Chip and Pin E5 6a***, so warmed up top roping the route by both starts.

Coalition Crack is pretty steep sustained with good protection that is physical to place. This venue is not my style of climbing, hence putting the time in to do these routes and try and improve. The onsight went quite well until near the end of the hard climbing where I got really spooked by a hollow block. Over gripping and then a few dirty damp holds and I dropped the route moving to the jugs that would have taken me to the off width, and easy ground. Gutted!! Looking at the block I saw that it has been glued in place, Hindsight! I lowered off and after a good rest sent it next go.

Elliot took one good lob trying to clip the top of his route, before getting it on his next attempt. I finished of doing a couple of laps up Con dem nation E6 6b*** which I did on my last visit here, hoping it will keep it cleaner with more traffic. I also had another run up Chip and Pin to finish the arms off. Who needs to spend money at the wall to have a good session on a rainy day.

Wilton Warrior's

Above: Dan on Central Route

After the extreme poor show at Stoney on Tuesday, I was keen for an easy day to get the body back in gear. Having looked through the guide I had my eye's on a few 3 star E1's and some easier lines as well. Tony, Elliot, Dan and John joined me today, and it was the first time at Wilton for Dan and John. We drove into the rain, but stayed optimistic. It was a little damp when we arrived, but after looking to see what was the driest we got stuck in.

Below: Dan on Cameo

I led a little damp, but fine Cameo E1 5a***, whilst Dan led Central Route E1 5b***. These are both outstanding routes for there own reason. One top quality wall climbing with a little runout in places, and the other a bit more sustained and steeper. I led Central Route after Dan whilst John got stuck into Ann E1 5b**. Elliot turned up and mentioned that he had recently climbed Black Mamba E4 6b**, and that it was not that bad. My easy day went down the pan, and despite still not feeling on full form I was getting all the beta, keen to take advantage of the fact it was still chalked up. As I got to the tricky climbing it was obvious that the small height difference between Elliot and I meant his beta was not going to work for me. I wasted time making my mind up, then blew it as I went through the crux. After a good rest it went next go. John and Tony climbed Paradox E2 5b** which was a little damp through the crux, making it a bit tricky.

Below: John on Paradox

Elliot was keen to try Master Spy E4 6a*** which follows an awesome roof feature into and up a steepish crack to finish. He did really well getting into the crux twice, but taking a couple of lobs. I seized the chance to climb on Elliot's gear, having only done the route once before 5 years ago. The crux felt much easier this time, and I was even getting everything back at the rest after the traverse. Things are looking up. Elliot then did a sterling job and sent the route, finding a better way to use the rest seemed to make the difference. Whist all this was good on Dan made short work of the 3 star Wipe out E2 5b.

Below: Starting the hard moves on Black Mamba

Above: Mid crux

All feeling a little tired we started to warm down a bit. Tony floated up 999 HS 4c***, and John got sucked into climbing Dawn HVS 5b***. A great route, but more than you bargin for. At a loose end I decided to finish off with the classic Cheat E3 5b***. I have done this before so little fuss thankfully. Dan was then psyched to lead it as well, so I dropped the rope and seconded John, whilst Dan and Tony dispatched Cheat.

An amazing day for all I think.

Poor Show at Stoney

Above: Ian on Padme

I met up with Tony and Ian at Stoney today with the aim of ticking a few more classics. Things started ok, with Tony leading Minus Ten HVS 5a* with its perfect steep jams. Ian then led Padme HVS 5a* in good style. I was psyched for Bubbles Wall E4 6b** and was feeling pretty good, how wrong I was. A long story short I failed. The crux went fine, but I was still very tired from the weekends activities which meant I could not recover on route. I found myself at the most run out point with one tricky move left knowing I was too tired to just push on and then recover. I managed to reverse to the thread at least then lowered off. It is pretty frustrating when the climbing is not that hard, but my general tiredness stopped me dead. I was a gutted and decided to head home early and miss the traffic. Hopefully Ian had better luck on Dead Banana crack E1 5c***.

Below: Ian on Padme

Fingers crossed a couple of days rest should see me back to normal.