Easy Day at Heptonstall

Above: Brown Sugar E2 5c**

Today I met up with Ed and Phil and went to Heptonstall. After yesterdays efforts at Troller's, I was keen for an easy day on good routes I had done before. I started us off leading the surprisingly good Main Line VS 4c**. Phil Then led his first HVS in Bull's Crack HVS 5a***. Moving well over the tricky ground, it proved to be a good challenge which he dispatched pretty swiftly.

Below: Phil on Bull's Crack

Ed decided to try Brown Sugar E2 5c**. He did pretty well, put came up short at the stiff crux through the over lap. Whilst he recovered from the pump I led the route, feeling the tired arms through the crux. I'm never disappointed with the quality of these routes. Phil made a valiant effort to follow, but got a bit too pumped. Ed then followed the route, armed the knowledge of where to go this time it went a lot smoother.

Above: Through the Crux of Brown Sugar

To finish off we went to the left hand outcrop where Phil led Lumber Vertebrae VS 4c**, which is much better than it looks. I soloed the last couple of the routes I had not done on this buttress to end the day. A nice chilled day.

Trollers Gill

I met up with Pete Harris at Troller's Gill Today. There was meant to be a few folks out today, but it ended up being only Pete and I. Despite the very heavy rain on the way there, the crag was bone dry. I had not been here before, but had heard of a few good routes, one of which Pete had been trying. Haslam Is a stiff 7b***, but I was hoping with Pete's beta to get it first go. I warmed up on the easiest line there, The Jack Flap 6b+, while Pete did The Jim Grin 7a*** (which he says he has wired). I was ready to give Haslam a bash and was cruising till I missed a crucial hold at the crux, GUTTED! Pete was then up. He had already had a quick play to refresh his memory with the crux, so cruised through this time. Despite doing the top tricky section differently, he coolly clipped the top. I didn't rest as long as I should have, so had to lay one on to finish the crux, but thankfully recovered fine to finish the route.

Pete then put some work into Hoodoo Guru 7b** (stiff), but despite making good progress tiredness meant that the lead will have to wait. I then flashed The Jim Grin, which I thought was only really 6c+, but awesome! With this done, I had a go on Angel Heart 7c+**. This is very bouldery, but the moves are excellent. Although I was getting tired, and managed to do all the moves, but need to come back when I am fresh.

A good venue that stayed dry and does not suffer from seepage.

Post Options	Labels for this post: e.g. scooters, holidays, autumn

3 Peaks Challenge

This weekend I was working on another 3 Peaks for Max Adventure. The group was a mix of folks from all over, some doing it for charity and others just for the challenge. I this is the quickest group that I have worked with to date, with their total time being 21 hours 26 minutes. The key to their success was their speed in descent.

A massive well done to all.

Wellington Crack

Today Dan and I went to Ilkley. Dan has not been that well and I was still a little tired from the days earlier in the week, but we were hopeful. We started off climbing a couple of good VS's, then after backing off a bold E5 I thought that I would just get on Welli Crack E4 5c***. I had been waiting to climb this for about 10 years, so even though I was not on form, I could not really keep putting it off. Overall was going pretty well, but a foot slip and excessive one arm lock off at the crux meant I was a bit more pumped than I hoped to be at the top. On the very last move I did not use the hold as well as I could. Reaching for the top my hand parted with the hold and I was air born. A bit gutted, I finished off. The climbing is amazing, but definitely suffering from the excessive top roping.

We finished off our session having a go on Guillotine E6 6b***. This is a bold solo, so top roping it first is a sensible decision for us. The crux was a little tricky and took a minute to work out. Once we had this sorted it was very straight forward. A bit too tired to solo it, it will be there for the next visit.

Wilton 2

Above: Through the crux move of The Swine E3 6a***

After a steep day at the Roost yesterday, I was not sure how well I would do today. However, when Elliot suggested the Main Wall at Wilton 2 I was psyched to try and tick all the 2 and 3 star routes I one visit. This would be 6 routes at E2 and above, so I stiff challenge. It was very warm in there today which instantly stop and attempt on the two hardest routes. Still four to go at though.

Elliot nipped back home to grab a couple of bouldering mats, so I took the time to ab and clean a very dirty Iron Orchid which some how ended up first on the list. After removing grass from holds in the crux, Elliot was back and it was game on. The heat made the bold lower arete feel greasy and quite tricky. I had also not brushed the arete as it looked ok, I should have. Thankfully I made it to the jugs and pegs at 8m without taking the plunge. The crux through the groove was one pretty hard move, that felt ok when I went for it (thank god I had cleaned the hold). Easy climbing to finish and one in the bag. Elliot was up next, but unfortunately took a couple of falls of the crux and got some good rope burns for his efforts.

Despite it being very hot now, I had a go on The Swine E3 6a***, but got shut down by a sweaty sloppy side pull. I spat my dummy out, but stopped sulking and led Wilton Wall E3 6a*** instead. This has some great climbing on it, but is over graded. Even in the heat it felt benchmark E2 5c. Elliot then led Falling Crack E2 5b** (stiff and harder than Wilton Wall). This had some excellent moves on thin jams and was steeper than it first appeared.

Below: Elliot on Falling Crack

It had cooled down a bit no the sun had moved off the wall so I got back on The Swine. the side pull was still sweaty, but I managed to use a thinner, sharper side pull instead. After that it eases off to the top. A good way to end the day, as my feet didn't want to go back in my shoes again.

Sleepy Hollow

After the efforts of the walk and drive to work on Scafell on Sat night/Sunday morning, I was still a little tired today. Despite the driving rain that started yesterday afternoon and only finish in the early hours of the morning. I was still confident the Roost would be dry and Ed joined me with a similar view. I think the best way to describe it's condition when we arrived, was dry enough. Chip and Pin is the usual warm up. This was hard work today as it was soaking in the lower section. By the end of my warm up it was not too bad.

Ed was just back from Download Festival, so was taking the view that all and any climbing was a bonus. This said he was making good progress on Chip and Pin considering the conditions.

I have been working my way through the routes here and next up was Sleepy Hollow E6 6b***. This felt different to the routes I had done before as it was less crack climbing, more face and feature climbing. The route was still damp. Being at my absolute limit of possible onsight grade, I ended up having to sit on the gear and brush the route. I think it is fair to say I would have failed. The climbing was quite blind in places, but brilliant. Hard climbing led to the chimney and a good rest, then slightly easier climbing to the top. Once the route was clean and I knew where I was going, it was much smoother second go.

Only 3 more routes to go!

Scafell Pike

Last night Andy and I met a group from Max Adventure at the base of Scafell to guide them up and down as part of their 3 peaks. They were a bit late getting to us, so we only started walking at 21:40 which meant we would be in the dark for the majority. This can sometimes slow folks down a lot, but these guys coped really well and made the round trip in 3 hours 55 mins. I made it back home by 4:30 for a bit of sleep, but an early night will be needed tonight.