Wet and Mingin' SPA Assessment and a A Spot of Bouldering

Nick Embracing the ming!

Over the weekend I ran an SPA Assessment in the Peak.  Despite the horrible wet and windy weather, all the candidates got stuck in.  We found some shelter at Froggatt on Saturday morning to do a few routes and personal abseil, before moving inside to look at other aspects of the assessment.  Sunday was slightly better weather wise, and Lawrancefield roadside bay even had a couple of dry routes.  All the candidates worked hard again through the weather, before moving over to Millstone to rap things up.

Latching the crux reach

Today I have managed to find a bit of dry rock at the crag which is often the savior for me, Woodhouse.  I was with Rose, so as she dug around and tried to scrabble over everything I warmed up on the Clingen face.  I'm still miles away from fully fit, but things are heading in the right direction.  I managed Angel's Crossing Extention font 7b+, which has a crimpy hold that was just to much for me when I was last there.  The move off it was move dynamic than it should me, as I still can't pull fully on crimps like that.  All positive though, and not too tired after my 50 mile bike ride in the ming yesterday.

Finishing off!

Finger Therapy

I managed to grab a quick hours bouldering today, so the only choice was Woodhouse.  This does work in my favor as I know all the problems so well, I can focus on the things that will help me get strong again.  After warming up on classics like Radium Arete, I got stuck into the tricky problems on the Angel Face.

Two weeks ago I could not hold the slot which makes up the crux of most of the harder problems without pain.  Today was a different story.  After putting a bit of time into routes and problems, I was feeling stronger than expected.  It was a real pleasure to climb Angel Face, Angel Face Roof Eliminate and Angel Face Reverse all font 7b+.  They all felt much harder than before, but it is real progress to be able to do these again.  I still can't crimp properly, but my open hand strength is improving as an added bonus.

Work Work!

Yesterday I was climbing with Izzi.  She has done a variety of courses over the last couple of years in the summer and winter, but through illness has not been out in over a year.  We went to Heptonstall first and climbed 7 routes up to VS, before mooching over to Woodhouse for a more focused sesion on movement.  Considering Izzi's layoff, she did fantastic.

Izzi working hard on weight transfer

Wild and Windy on Aberdeen Sea Cliff

The Steep prow at Longhaven

On Wednesday I managed to sneak a day climbing with Neil on quite possibly the only dry rock available to us.  We not only had forecast rain to avoid, but massive seas smashing against the crags.  Neil picked out Longhaven, North of Aberdeen after consulting some local mates.  It was a good choice, despite the easiest warm up (E2 5c?) being out due to dampness when we got there.  We climbed on Munich Buttress, which is a cool looking prow of rock high above sea level.  There was a fair bit of spray around, as well as sea foam, but we were sheltered enough.

Neil swinging around the arete on Monkey Puzzle

Not wanting to overdo it straight off with my finger in less than perfect conditions, Neil cruised up Monkey Puzzle E3 5c**.  This looked like a steep imposing line, but turned out to be a pleasurable balancy route up the cool left arete.  It had been cold belaying. so I was not overly warmed up and offered Neil to lead again.  He then turned his sights on African Face E5 6b*, which is a very good eliminate up the steep face between Monkey Puzzle and The American Route E2.  Before long he was involved in the crux which was rumoured to be a massive dyno/slap.  Neil hung in there valiantly, but could not commit to the move.  After belaying for some time, I was no more warmed up.  Even so, I took advantage of Neil's gear and climbed to his high point.  On first encounter the move felt committing, but doable, other than my fingers were very cold.  I decided to reverse and warm then up and messed that up and fell off like a complete tool.  This gave me the chance to pull up and brush the holds which were pretty chalky and greasy after Neil had been on them for about half an hour.  This made the world of difference and allowed me to warm my fingers up enough to commit to pull on them.  Despite being weak at the moment, the recovering finger held up well, and the wild slap/dyno fell to a bit of good old fashioned pulling and static grab.  Having forgot to take any rack, I then had to pull some up, before finishing off.  A really nice route, but all about one move, with the rest being around 5b/c.

Neil starting up African Face

Time had run away, and it was a long drive back to Arbroath. So we headed home happy to have climbed some cool routes on a wild day.

Happy with 2 routes stood on top of the Platforn getting battered by the wind

Getting Motivated

I have found it hard to get motivated to climb again, knowing I'm going to be back to square one.  Over the last 3 months, I have managed to dip in and out of climbing to try and maintain some fitness and strength, but it was inevitable that I would lose loads of each.

So, this week I been the first o which I am having to suck it up! and start struggling.  Monday saw Ed and I at Widdop for  the first daddy daycare bouldering session.  Things when pretty well considering we had 2 toddlers to look after as well as trying to cram some climbing in.  A range of problems up to V6 got sent, so a good day.

I managed a 45 min hit at Woodhouse with Rose in toe, which proved pretty hopeful.  I did around 15 problems, which included a handful of V6/7's and a quick send of the Sheriff V8/9.  Everything felt harder than it should, but reassuring that I could still whale up some things.

Today I have had a good morning session at Heptonstall to see how I would fair on routes.  I did surprisingly better than expected on the fitness front, but have definitely lost a lot of strength and power endurance.  Quick ascents of Thin Red Line E2 5b*** and Brown Sugar E2 5c** left me feeling warmed up and positive. So I fired up Demerera E4 6a** which felt ok, but I was not pulling through as easily I remember being able to.  After a break I did Hard Line E5 6b**.  I fell off the crux once and lowered off, then did it next go.  This felt easy when I flashed it at the start of the year, but quite powerful today highlighting were I have lost the most.  I tried to wrap things up with a stylish ascent of Step in the light green E6 6b***, but was powered out.  I went through the crux ok, only to fall onto the peg shortly after.  Dogging my way to the top with hands opening on every move, I felt quite happy with my morning.  I was not pumped, just out of beans.  Nothing a bit of bouldering won't fix.

A Busy Week

Since the 3 peaks it's been a busy, but bitty week.  I ran an in house training course to teach leading at Wigan Youth Zone at the start of the week, worked an event at Calderdale College for Freshers week and then ran a CWA assessment at the weekend.  This all wedged in bentween Man Flu and looking after Rose.  The finger is healing up nicely and now just needs the psyche to return to get fit and strong again in time for the start of the grit season.  Which might even start early if the cooler temps continue.

Yorkshire 3 Peaks

Yesterday I met up with Ginny and Millie to guide them around the Yorkshire 3 Peaks in a good time.  In recent years we have completed the National 3 Peaks in 21 hrs and the Welsh 15 Peaks, so this should be ok.  Despite the hills not being that high, the distance is still significant at just under 25 miles.

We had good walking weather, dry and cool.  This meant we got a bit of a romp on and stormed around in 9 hrs 5 mins.  I blame the 20 min lunch stop for not breaking the 9 hr barrier.  Regardless, a fine effort by the ladies who were good company the whole way around.  They left trying to decide what would be next, and with winter approaching, who knows.