SPA Training and Green Death

The last couple of weeks have seen the usual route setting work and squeezing in some climbing to tick over.  This year continues to be a battle to find the time for days out for myself, so I'm doing my best to stay fit-ish.

Over the weekend I was running an SPA Training in the Peak for Mckinlay training.  A well attended course meant a good mix of candidates.  As always, the more the better for sharing ideas.  Tricky conditions on Saturday, with heat and rain for personal climbing.  However, everyone climbed well, some above the standard.  A good group day at Millstone and Lawrancefield rounded off a good weekend.

I managed a quick send Of Green Death E5 6b*** early Sunday morning.  A good brush, then solo, with an unfortunate damp top out when some drizzle started as I was in the top crux.  A trick start via the 6b version makes for a better route all round.

Today after climbing partners have not been able to make it to Kilnsey, I opted for a morning session at Woodhouse.  A stiff workout, with a handful of 7a+'s and 4 7b+'s made it a worthwhile morning.

CWA Assessment

After a week stuck in at home not so well, it was back to The Leeds Wall yesterday for a CWA Assessment.  The 4 candidates did really well.  A mix of abilities in terms of their personal climbing, meant some had a harder time than others.  All gave good performances when it came to the other aspects of the award.

Today I met with a posy from ROKT at Heptonstall for a few routes this afternoon.  There was approx. 20 folk there, which has to be the busiest I've ever seen it.  Despite the warm temps, folks were getting stuck in to a range of routes.  I soloed a few VS's to warm up, then led Brown Sugar E2 5c** with Chris.  Mark was putting in a good effort trying to lead Hard Line E5 6b**, but fell short of the top.  I took advantage of his very high gear to nip up it, and found it very easy to my surprise.  Even after being a ill all week, I seem to have recovered ok.  Lets hope I can start finding some time to get out and do a bit more.

CWA Training

Over the weekend I ran a CWA Training course for McKinley Mountaineering.  It was a full course, with a great mix of experience through the candidates, which really made it.  The personal climbing day was done in the varied venue of ROKT.  A great venue for this day of the award.  The second day looking at all the group aspects and the abseil module was done at The Leeds Wall.  Another good venue for this award, and contrasting to the previous days.

Work, Work

After a day inside route setting yesterday, it was nice to be out today.  I was working with Steve at Heptonstall doing a multi pitch training day in preparation for his schools trip to Wales next month.  We spent the day looking at belays and stance management, as we broke up the routes into 2 or 3 pitches.  This worked really well, and gave a good opportunity to talk about avoiding common stance problems with 3 people.  Steve did well on the routes he led and was well organised.  A bit more practise before the trip and things will be cruisy.

Steve on Sunstroke Slab

We nipped over to Mytholm Steep Quarry to climb the rarely dry and climbed Revolution HVS 5b**.  It was a bit dirty, but gave some great climbing.

SPA Refresher, then SPA Assessment

On Friday I was at Stanage doing an SPA Refresher.  It was a long and productive day as we went through the whole syllabus, but the sunshine made it a good day to be out.

I went back out in the evening with friends for a bit of a boulder, and ticked a few classics in the process.

A great evening at Stanage

Over the weekend I ran an SPA Assessment.  The weather made it a nice, but tiring affair, but the candidates did a great job.  Burbage North was the venue on Saturday for the personal climbing section, before heading to the Foundry to cover the wall bits.

Above & Below: Evangelos enjoying his assessment

 





James & Vicky stuck into 20ft Crack

I nipped out to Stanage again in the evening and climbed some classic routes with Penny.  She cruised the VS's and HVS's we did on this, her first time outside for a while.

Sunday was the group day, and Lawrancefield and Millstone where the venues.  It was a tough day, but everyone put a lot of effort in.  There was success for most, but one unfortunately needs to return for this day.  Congratulations to everyone that passed, a good effort by all.

Work and Climbing

I've been pretty busy again since last blogging.  The usual route setting has kept me going, as well as hanging banners and letters off the outside of the ROKT building.  There have been a few good climbing sessions locally too.  A mileage day at Heptonstall in which we climbed 20 pitches.  All but 3 of these were E2 and above.  On another visit to Heptonstall, I flashed Anti cyclone E5 6b*, which is a steep thin crack finish to Thin Red Line.  One worth doing.

Whilst up in Fort William on a family holiday, I grabbed a couple of hour out with some friends.  A dad's outing that saw us move together and bag 16 pitches of severe in about an hour and a half, and finish at the top of the crag.

Today I had a quick visit to Widdop after hearing a couple of routes had been cleaned.  I quickly soloed Piton Crack E1 5b* and Mantel Madness E3 6a, then thought I'd do my bit and clean another couple.  Stage Fright E3 6a was a great solo and then Hammertime E6 6b* was terrifying one.  A great morning though.

A Bit of Work and Milage

This week I have managed to cram a fair bit in.  A couple of steady bouldering sessions outside doing problems up to 7b+ I know to try and build up some strength.  I have done my usual route setting at Rokt, and fitted in doing the odd route there too. 

Yesterday I went to Heptonstall with Dan hoping to get a good session in before the rain.  After warming up of a few easy routes, we got stuck into some laps.  I ended up climbing 16 pitches of E2-4,with a high number in the higher end.  Leaving the crag tired, but not wasted meant it was a perfectly balanced session.

I am working tomorrow, so no doubt I'll squeeze in a few routes too.