Ben Report

Folks have been out today to take advantage of the cold nights over the last couple of days. Lots of the classic grade IV's are still in good shape, as well as a couple of the classic V's. The Point is not in good shape and has a hole in the second pitch, which made Bruce back off yesterday. The weather is due for another change over the weekend so many bring a little more snow back.

I am back down South tomorrow, so this will be my last winter report unless conditions improve massively to draw me back up.

CIC Week

This week was meant to be a good week in the CIC climbing classics, a great way to finish my season up here. Unfortunately, a gastro virus has killed me off early, but it started well.

We walked up Sunday evening with our heavy bags for the week, thankfully the bus blocking the track had been moved (good work Bruce and Tony), so we only had to walk from the top car park. The weather forecast for the week had turned to the less than perfect one (warm but dry), but I was still hopeful we would get loads done. After discussing aims etc. We had a plan for the next day.

Monday: Warm, windy and dry. Having spoke to a few folks I had good knowledge that a walk up Observatory Gully would bring results. We broke trail up to Observatory Buttress with the view of climbing the direct, but it was to thin so went for the original. The ice was very wet due to the snow melt running over it, but did offer plastic ice all the way up this 3 star classic. We made short work of the route and navigated down to the abseil posts in a good white out and back to the hut. a good start.

Tuesday: Warm, windy and wet. Again we walked up Observatory Gully less than hopeful. The rain and wind were stripping things in rapid fashion sending ice and rocks down for good measure. After a quick look at Hadrian's we ran away and went up Tower Ridge. This was bare up the starting chimney, then very icy after, there where even places you could have placed ice screws on the route. It had cleared to be a nice day by mid day, so we could see the damage the weather from the morning had done. It was pretty bad. I had heard and seen ice falling down all day so was not surprised at the effects. Hadrian's, Indicator, Smith's had all held in there and the Point looks awesome, except for the big things still hanging above it. Looking up into Corie na Ciste we could see that lots of the high routes still looked in good shape, but again cornices are the concern. Day 2 in the bag and another Classic.

Wednesday: No longer care about the weather. My Wednesday starts at approx. 1:30am with stomach cramps that keep me awake. By 2:30am I am violently sick, but at least there are 3 others in my situation as well. Being ill and looking into a long drop does not help settle your stomach, I could even say it makes things seem worse. By 9am I have nothing left to come out, even though my body insists on trying as I walk back down to the car park. A long story short, down, visit to doctors, 2 injections and a prescription and a lot of sleep later and I have finally eaten again. Dried toast never tasted so good.

Hopefully the folks left in the hut will be well and take advantage of the better weather today and Friday. Thanks to the folks from the Fell and Rock Club that also had to come down for the lift to Alan's. I am psyched to leave my bed today and might make a redpoint attempt on the living room.

Where The Mood Takes Me

Above: Crimping hard on Where the Mood Takes Me E5 6a*

I had a day to myself today after a good stretch of work and was hoping for a nice lay in. Unfortunately I was up early (I'm in the routine), so got up and out up the Glen before the weather came in. I walked to upper Simitar and had a look at Where The Mood Takes Me E5 6a*. This is the only route on that buttress I had not done, so thought it would fill an hour. I abseiled down to make sure it was clean and had a look at the moves. It seemed ok, so I gave it a bash. Sequencey climbing leads through the crux to a straight forward top out. A nice route, good solo and finished before the rain.

Above: Working through the Crux

I will be in the CIC hut from Sunday till Friday, so limited updates till then.

Tired Legs and Dry Rock

Above: Dave cruising Right Wall VD

With the amount of snow this week it has taken its toll on the legs, so we opted for an easy day in Glen Nevis. This gave us the chance to revisit some of the belay skills we had covered on day 1 whilst doing a few routes as well. Dave and John led the Gutter D*** and Right Wall Vdiff* breaking them down into many pitches for max oppoetunities to practise. Is was a nice way to finish the week, and the cake in the cafe helped as well.

Thanks guys for another good week.

Raeburn's Route

Above: John finishing the hard climbing on the long first pitch

Now the high pressure system has moved in the weather has improved. Cold and clear with blistering sunshine today in Glencoe. We slogged back up in SCNL and climbed Raeburn's route, which had suffered a little on the first pitch due to the early morning sun, it might not be there tomorrow. Once on the upper pitches it was steller climbing to the top. John and Dave again commented on the quality of the climbing, they seem to be developing a liking for mixed climbing. There were loads of teams out today on all the usual classics, taking advantage of the trenches to the routes. There was a fair bit of snow being moved at the end of the day and I have heard that Obseratory gully avalanched today as well as some folks getting avalanched out of the base of Glover's. It is warm so take care out there.

Above: John and Dave enjoying the route and the weather

Below: Dave nearing the top

Far Eastern Buttress

Above: Me on the first pitch

Today I went up to the Far Eastern Buttress on Aonach Dubh with Dave and John. We climbed a route called Houy Choy (I'll correct this when I get it right) IV,5, which felt more Vi,5 today with the thin, not so good ice and extremely poor/none existant gear. This is much steeper than it looks and gives some good climbing spread over 2 pitches, both of which were thin ice climbing. Dave and John felt challenged and got a lot out off the day, but we might have an easier day tomorrow, maybe.

There is now a good track into the corie where folks were climbing a range of routes. Still loads of snow, which is wet and heavy.

Back to North Buttress

Above: Dave finishing pitch 2

We ventured into Glencoe today with a few ideas in mind, but North Buttress was top of the list as I knew it was in good shape to climb if we could get to it. It was hard work as soon as you stepped off the main road, into the knee deep snow. Fortunately, some kind soles had broke trail. Unfortunately, they appeared to not know the way, so the approach was a bit up and down. Once off the footpath and on to the ridge approach it was fine and the amount of snow was substantially less. The route was still in great condition, and we made rapid progress up the pitches. John and Dave had not lost any skills since last year. We abseiled back down and avoided the wade to the top. There was 1 other team behind us, but we never saw them again after abbing. I did the nice thing (or stupid) and broke a trail back down the footpath to join the path that was broken this morning which should help folk pick a better way in.

Above: John finishing the second pitch

Below: Dave on easy ground after the crux pitch

Apple and Blackberry crumble with custard in the Clachaig went down a treat. Other folks we met had ploughed up into Lochain and turned back. There were tracks heading towards curved ridge as well. Teams from the Brenin went up the zigzags and down Dinnertime buttress as well.