Over the weekend I ran an SPA Assessment in the Peak. A big congratulations to Lyndon, Lee, Nick and Tim who all put in a good performance to pass. Good weather on the first day meant some nice routes got led, and despite overnight rain. Dry weather on day 2 made for a less stressful affair. Good news all round really.
Yesterday I was hanging off some high rises in Leeds cleaning a whole lot of windows. Nice weather for the most part made it a pleasant day with some good tunes to keep me ticking over. I will be back there tomorrow to finish off.
Tuesday, 30 July 2013
Monday, 22 July 2013
SPA Training
Over the weekend I ran an SPA Training course in the Peak. It was an excellent course, with good input from a strong group of candidates. The first day was spent at Stanage to cover the personal climbing aspects of the syllabus, before heading to the wall late afternoon/evening to cover using climbing walls and introducing some of the group work skills.
Day 2 was all about the group aspect of the syllabus. We went to Lawerance Field and Millstone, which worked well as they are quite different venues with regards rigging. A good weekend, with a lot of info shared.
I even managed a few easy routes after three weeks rest for my injured finger pulley. It now time to work on strengthening it, with loads of easy routes etc.
Day 2 was all about the group aspect of the syllabus. We went to Lawerance Field and Millstone, which worked well as they are quite different venues with regards rigging. A good weekend, with a lot of info shared.
I even managed a few easy routes after three weeks rest for my injured finger pulley. It now time to work on strengthening it, with loads of easy routes etc.
Saturday, 6 July 2013
Work and a Finger Injury
I have had a busy week, which started on Sunday when I ran the second day of an SPA training in the Peak. A full day where we visited Lawrancefield and Milestone to cover all the group aspects of the award.
Monday was the first day of the George Watson's College summer rock week in the Lakes. As the weather was due to be mixed, it was key to make the most of each day. We managed to climb 11 routes in Dalt Quarry in the afternoon when they arrived. A great starting venue for half a day, with short technical routes on slate. As the evening was good, we had a pretty full bouldering session on the Honister Pass boulders. Problems were set from VB-V5 by the kids, and I managed to sneak in a few problems for myself, with a cheeky V6 flash being the best.
Tuesday was totally Ming, so we ended up having a full day at Kendal Wall. This was based around doing routes, and everyone managed to last well throughout the day.
The weather had improved massively for Wednesday, so we headed to Upper Swirl Crag on the West flanks of Helvellyn. This turned out to be a good crag in an awesome setting, with Thirlmere in the background. Here we climbed 10 routes ranging from HS-E3 on good rock, with varied climbing. To make the most of the good weather, we had another evening hit on the Honister boulders which went well.
Unfortunately, Thursday was wet to start. A left helmet at the wall meant it was not too bad to return for a morning boulder session, with the view to head out in the afternoon. This worked well for everyone, except me. I was taking it easy and warmed up well, but unfortunately tore a pulley on the last move of a 7b circuit. Totally gutted, as it will probably cost me all my main goals for the year, but I am trying to focus on healing and staying as fit as possible. Who knows, things might heal quicker than expected. We did make it out to Badger Rock in Kentmere, for a quick afternoon boulder, before fish & chips and a movie in Ambleside.
Friday took us all to the Bowderstone (gutted!!!) for a morning session before they made the journey back to Edinburgh. Despite the hard nature of the problems here, most managed the V3 traverse and another easier problem. Euan pulled it out the bag on his last shot to send a tricky V4.
A nice way to wrap up a good, fully packed week. Bring on Yorkshire again next year!
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| North Boulder, Honister Pass |
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| Chris pulling hard on the V5 Eliminate |
The weather had improved massively for Wednesday, so we headed to Upper Swirl Crag on the West flanks of Helvellyn. This turned out to be a good crag in an awesome setting, with Thirlmere in the background. Here we climbed 10 routes ranging from HS-E3 on good rock, with varied climbing. To make the most of the good weather, we had another evening hit on the Honister boulders which went well.
Unfortunately, Thursday was wet to start. A left helmet at the wall meant it was not too bad to return for a morning boulder session, with the view to head out in the afternoon. This worked well for everyone, except me. I was taking it easy and warmed up well, but unfortunately tore a pulley on the last move of a 7b circuit. Totally gutted, as it will probably cost me all my main goals for the year, but I am trying to focus on healing and staying as fit as possible. Who knows, things might heal quicker than expected. We did make it out to Badger Rock in Kentmere, for a quick afternoon boulder, before fish & chips and a movie in Ambleside.
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| Hamish sending a nippy V2 |
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| Gemma cruising |
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| Alan bringing out the Gun Show on the V3 Traverse |
Thursday, 27 June 2013
Sheriff-less
I only had this morning free and was hoping to head to Heptonstall to try and flash Vertical Speed. Unfortunately, no one was free to climb, so I had to make do with a Woodhouse hit. The temperature was nice when I arrived at 7:30, and conditions much better than on Sunday when I had an hour there with Ben.
I opted to do Ian's Roof again to get a video, and just enjoy it in cooler conditions. It is a great problem, but no easier than Ian's Roof in my opinion.
Feeling pretty good, I walked over to the sheriff block to see how the Sheriff-less 7c felt. Hard would be the answer, but much better than any other time I have tried it. I found a better sequence for me today to get into and use the pocket in the face, but the start is always my weak area. My core is a little stronger for the recent steep problems I've done. Which meant I could do the start for the first time ever. Psyched by this, it was game on, as I had finished the problem from the lip in the past, but could never start. After falling from the last couple of moves a few times, and shredding my ankle, I final sent it. A good eliminate, but not one my ankles will be rushing back to repeat.
I opted to do Ian's Roof again to get a video, and just enjoy it in cooler conditions. It is a great problem, but no easier than Ian's Roof in my opinion.
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| As the Traverse joins Ian's Roof |
Feeling pretty good, I walked over to the sheriff block to see how the Sheriff-less 7c felt. Hard would be the answer, but much better than any other time I have tried it. I found a better sequence for me today to get into and use the pocket in the face, but the start is always my weak area. My core is a little stronger for the recent steep problems I've done. Which meant I could do the start for the first time ever. Psyched by this, it was game on, as I had finished the problem from the lip in the past, but could never start. After falling from the last couple of moves a few times, and shredding my ankle, I final sent it. A good eliminate, but not one my ankles will be rushing back to repeat.
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| Almost there |
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| No pain, No glory! Or some rubbish like that! |
Tuesday, 25 June 2013
3 Star Classics at Wilton
I met Elliot at Wilton 1 today with grand plans, but the bird restrictions are still in place meant we had to tweak are planned routes for the day. As I was there a little before Elliot, I returned the favor for his route cleaning efforts over the years, and brushed Loopy E4 6a***. It was very dirty, and I unfortunately needed to try some of the moves to workout what to clean. That said, it was good that I did, otherwise the wrong holds would have sandbagged Elliot. After a quick warm up traversing around and soloing some easy routes. Elliot got stuck in. He had a bit of a fight, and despite getting pumped battled through for the on sight. I quickly dispatched the route on his gear, which was really enjoyable. One 6a move after you clip the pegs, leads to steady climbing and the top.
I chilled out whilst Elliot flashed the Max E3 5c***, again working hard. Having got his first pump of the day out of the way, it was much easier to manage this time round. Taking advantage of now knowing the start of Loopy, I opted for the longest route on the buttress Clean Sweep E5 6a***. At 28m this is quite pumpy. It takes in the hardest climbing on Loopy, then traverses the finger break across the overhanging wall to join Wombat, and finish up that. Half way across the traverse, I started to feel tired, but it seemed to plateau and I could keep on trucking. Thankfully the traverse was not technical, which meant I could move quickly into Wombat. The climbing to the top was excellent, and made for an awesome route.
Elliot returned the cleaning favor, brushing Sleepwalk E4 6a***. This was another great route, with no hard climbing. 6a+/b climbing, but bold with very fiddly gear in the top half. Falling off would not be a good idea going for the break. Elliot then wrapped the day up flashing the route as well.
Tony and Ian turned up after us a went on a sending mission, climbing Cameo E1 5a***, Spider Crack HVS 5a* and Ann E1 5b* before we left. They were heading over the road to Wilton 3 for move routes, so it will be good to hear what they did.
I chilled out whilst Elliot flashed the Max E3 5c***, again working hard. Having got his first pump of the day out of the way, it was much easier to manage this time round. Taking advantage of now knowing the start of Loopy, I opted for the longest route on the buttress Clean Sweep E5 6a***. At 28m this is quite pumpy. It takes in the hardest climbing on Loopy, then traverses the finger break across the overhanging wall to join Wombat, and finish up that. Half way across the traverse, I started to feel tired, but it seemed to plateau and I could keep on trucking. Thankfully the traverse was not technical, which meant I could move quickly into Wombat. The climbing to the top was excellent, and made for an awesome route.
Elliot returned the cleaning favor, brushing Sleepwalk E4 6a***. This was another great route, with no hard climbing. 6a+/b climbing, but bold with very fiddly gear in the top half. Falling off would not be a good idea going for the break. Elliot then wrapped the day up flashing the route as well.
Tony and Ian turned up after us a went on a sending mission, climbing Cameo E1 5a***, Spider Crack HVS 5a* and Ann E1 5b* before we left. They were heading over the road to Wilton 3 for move routes, so it will be good to hear what they did.
Friday, 21 June 2013
Ian's Traverse
Rose and I had an early hit at Woodhouse today to take advantage of a cooler start this morning. I was keen to do Ian's Roof 7c again and get a video, as well as try Ian's Traverse 7b+/c. Despite a recent hold breaking off the roof, it did not effect the climbing for me. I quickly dispatched the roof and got some good video, then turned my attention to the traverse. This traverses the lip to join Ian's Roof before all it's hard climbing, then finishes as for that problem. There is quite a bit of new climbing in the short section, and I got through it quickly to join Ian's Roof. Feeling quite good I kept on truckin', just to see how I would go. I was super psyched to send the problem, but I suppose all the hard work had already been done with my time on Ian's Roof.
We made a quick exit and made it to toddler group just in time for toast and a cup of tea, happy days! I'm sure we will be there again soon. As Houdini Direct 7c+ looks nails and Rose just like digging around in the mud!
Wednesday, 19 June 2013
New Route In Dingy Lancs Quarry, and Some Pits Cranking!
Yesterday I went to Cross Stones Quarry to have a look at an arete that needed straightening out. I would have to say this is a poor quarry, and if I had known what it as like before getting there, I wouldn't have bothered. That said, The couple of routes I did were not terrible. I on sighted Broken Lance E1 5b**, the abseiled at checked the upper arete of this that had been missed out originally. It looked pretty straight forwards, so I soloed that to give Broken Lance Direct E3 5b*. As I was here I on sighted Bean Stalk E1 5b**, which had some good climbing on it.
Today after a change in plans, I met Elliot at Running Hill Pits. I had a list of 3 routes to tick off. So was pretty happy that it was cool in the shade. We soloed around to warm up, the most noticeable on sight was Pipe Inspector E3 5c, which we both climbed. We both then gave our chosen routes a brush. Mine Adrenaline Run E6 6a* may not have been climbed since the late 90's, and was very dirty. Elliot's Sagittarius Flake E4/5 6b*** was not too bad.
I pre placed a couple of wires high up. These would have been ok to place on lead, But it seemed easier than cleaning for too long. I was psyched to then flash the route, with one scare as my heel popped off the arete as I caught the hold of the arete with my hand. Elliot had tried SF on a toprope a while ago and got shut down. He made short work of it today though.
Elliot then had a go on Adrenaline Run, but could not do the start of the hard climbing. After taking a few falls he sacked it off, and kindly brush Surgical Spirit E6 6b* for me to try and on sight. This climbs the wall between Yorick's Crack and Adrenaline Run. I managed to on sight it, JUST! it was quite fierce to the point it joined Yorick's at 2/3 height. The last route on my list was Yorick's Crack E6 6c**, but I could not do the crux moves low down. I managed not to fall off, so the on sight is still a possibility at least.
We the moved into the first quarry, where Elliot tried to on sight Calamity Crack E4 6a***. He put in a fine effort, but fell off the last move of the crux. Whilst he recovered I did a quick lead up it, having not climbed it in a while. It was so nice to climb it again. Tired arms making it feel a little harder than it is. Elliot then dispatched the route next go.
Happy and tired, we bailed just as the day was starting to heat up. A good session again in the pits!
A short vid..
Today after a change in plans, I met Elliot at Running Hill Pits. I had a list of 3 routes to tick off. So was pretty happy that it was cool in the shade. We soloed around to warm up, the most noticeable on sight was Pipe Inspector E3 5c, which we both climbed. We both then gave our chosen routes a brush. Mine Adrenaline Run E6 6a* may not have been climbed since the late 90's, and was very dirty. Elliot's Sagittarius Flake E4/5 6b*** was not too bad.
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| Mid Crux |
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| Almost there |
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| Done! |
I pre placed a couple of wires high up. These would have been ok to place on lead, But it seemed easier than cleaning for too long. I was psyched to then flash the route, with one scare as my heel popped off the arete as I caught the hold of the arete with my hand. Elliot had tried SF on a toprope a while ago and got shut down. He made short work of it today though.
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| Elliot pulling hard |
Elliot then had a go on Adrenaline Run, but could not do the start of the hard climbing. After taking a few falls he sacked it off, and kindly brush Surgical Spirit E6 6b* for me to try and on sight. This climbs the wall between Yorick's Crack and Adrenaline Run. I managed to on sight it, JUST! it was quite fierce to the point it joined Yorick's at 2/3 height. The last route on my list was Yorick's Crack E6 6c**, but I could not do the crux moves low down. I managed not to fall off, so the on sight is still a possibility at least.
We the moved into the first quarry, where Elliot tried to on sight Calamity Crack E4 6a***. He put in a fine effort, but fell off the last move of the crux. Whilst he recovered I did a quick lead up it, having not climbed it in a while. It was so nice to climb it again. Tired arms making it feel a little harder than it is. Elliot then dispatched the route next go.
Happy and tired, we bailed just as the day was starting to heat up. A good session again in the pits!
A short vid..
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