I went to Kilnsey with Dan today for a bit of sport and trad action. We did the usual laps on the 6b warm up, before Dan led Abracadevera E3 5c*. This is a neglected route that goes up the corner right of Direct Flight, then crosses that route to finish up the arete. Loosish in places, it has a adventurous feel about it which adds to it appeal. I then got on the Superdirectissima E5 6b**. This has a pumpy V4 boulder problem start, then easier, but still sustained and technical climbing above. Then upper section has a long run out (I tried all sorts, but nothing would go in), which makes it exciting on the top moves to the lower off bolts. These moves were extremely dirty, and after over 10 mins trying to clean the holds and touching the crab at the top I took a 12m+ lob. Pretty wild!!. After finally clipping a lower off, it was obvious someone before me had traversed off left into the 7a+ to finish before the tricky finishing moves, can't believe they never cleaned the top for me. An awesome route all the same.
We then had a burn on Ground Effect, which is an underated 7b as the climbing is outstanding. To rap up the day I seconded Blair up Central Wall E4 6a***, which is just as good each time I climb it. A brilliant day.
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