Sticky Wicket

I met Elliott at Kilnsey today. He wanted an early start so we were climbing by 10am, which didn't agree with me today. The crag was suffering with quite a bit of seepage, but there was still enough to go at. The route I normally warm up on was wet, so I opted to bolt to bolt Sticky Wicket. Having been mostly trad climbing over the last couple of months, this steepish 7b was a bit of a struggle. Elliott led a couple of the easier routes when they dried out. I finished on Sidekick, which is pretty steelly for 7a+. I was a bit tied for the onsight and blew it on the last hard move before the easy ground, Gutted.

The crag will need a few days to dry out, if it will at all now.

Welsh 3000's

Over the weekend I have been working for Maximum Adventure with a group walking the Welsh 3000's. I joined the group and Mike for the last 2 days of the 3 they were doing as there is a little scramling to do.

Saturday took us over Elidir Fawr, Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach and finally Tryfan. We were pretty lucky with the weather. It only drizzled in the morning and cleared in the afternoon giving us some good veiws from the Glyders and Tryfan.

Yesterday was the shortest of the 3, but covered the most demanding terrain for the clients. We walked up to and across Crib Goch to the top of Garnedd Ugain. From there it was a easy stroll to the summit of Snowdon and their final peak. After a quick coffee and cake we walked down via the Pyg track. Good weather made this a great day for everyone and a awesome way to finish the course.

The Superdirectissima

I went to Kilnsey with Dan today for a bit of sport and trad action. We did the usual laps on the 6b warm up, before Dan led Abracadevera E3 5c*. This is a neglected route that goes up the corner right of Direct Flight, then crosses that route to finish up the arete. Loosish in places, it has a adventurous feel about it which adds to it appeal. I then got on the Superdirectissima E5 6b**. This has a pumpy V4 boulder problem start, then easier, but still sustained and technical climbing above. Then upper section has a long run out (I tried all sorts, but nothing would go in), which makes it exciting on the top moves to the lower off bolts. These moves were extremely dirty, and after over 10 mins trying to clean the holds and touching the crab at the top I took a 12m+ lob. Pretty wild!!. After finally clipping a lower off, it was obvious someone before me had traversed off left into the 7a+ to finish before the tricky finishing moves, can't believe they never cleaned the top for me. An awesome route all the same.

We then had a burn on Ground Effect, which is an underated 7b as the climbing is outstanding. To rap up the day I seconded Blair up Central Wall E4 6a***, which is just as good each time I climb it. A brilliant day.

Malham

Mhairi and I went to Malham today, hoping that yeaterday had not tired us out too much. We warmed up on Rose Coronary before trying something new. Mhairi tried Sychopants 7a. She is trying to improve her onsighting at the moment. This route has a hard crux section, which took a bit more working out that she had in the tank today. A bit of rest and it went very quickly. I tried to onsight A Career With Prospects E5 6a*, one of the catwalks trad routes. This was pretty hard and I had to battle to the last move, and with the jug in sight one move away I fell off (well pumped). It went second go and the climbing was brilliant. I was pretty tired, so had a quick run up Brooklyn Girls, then took the draws out of Yosemite Wall, all good training though.

The Goon Show

I met up with a few folk at Blue Scar today and warmed up on the E1 on the left wall. On the way down I replaced the thread on the Goon Show E4 6a*. I then gave this a bash, but few off the crux when my foot popped off a dirty smear (excuses I know). After a quick brush, i lowered off and pulled the ropes and got back on. I should have rested a bit, but fought to finish the meat off the routes and chilled out at a well earned rest. Easy ground to the top and another Blue Scar classic and one I would reccomend. I then led Blue Sister E3 5c**, which has an awesome crux section on the upper wall. We then went over to the right wall and did a batch of 6b's. Mhairi made an impressive onsight of Pillar Talk 7a**. Another great day at Blue.

Armscliff Trad Intro

I met Deb at Armscliff today for a trad intro climbing course I was running for The Leeds Wall. The day was aimed at having a go at climbing outside, whilst learning about the process that we go through when trad climbing. We climbed a range of routes from Diff to MVS 4b, the highlights Square Chimney Whiskey Crack MVS 4b*** and Bird's Nest Crask HS 4b***. We finished the session with Deb placing runners around the base of the crag in preperation for his next course next week.

Millstone Bonanza

Dan, John and I went to Millstone today, which was the first time for me. As always I had a few things I wanted to have a look at. Dan led us up the super classic North West Road HVS 5a as a warm up' which is an outstanding route. I then took on the challenge of onsighting Snivling Shits E5 6a. This is pretty bold, with the only runner after the crux and 12m up. I was climbing well and picking my way up the last hard move (8m up) when the edge on my shoe desided it was worn out and parted company with everything. As this was my only point of contact, Groung Ahoy!!! Luckily Dan was on it with the matt and softened the fall. I brushed myself off, fix my shoe and did the route without incident, Awesome!

Above: Snivling Shits

John then made short work of Dexterity HVS/E1 5b (depends on the guide). Perfect jams and a stiff upper section.

Below: John on Dexterity

It was Dan's lead, but the sun had started to come around into the quarry. I leapt into action and stole infront of Dan (he said it was ok) and Soloed Edge Lane E5 5c. The climbing was out of this world, never hard, but super serious it you dropped it high up. Happy with my day, Dan racked up for Great West Road. He did really well on the quite physical and pumpy E2 5b first pitch. The top pitch is another bold arete that goes at E3 5b. I was on my game today, so led that pitch, which is very serious in places.

Below: Getting involved with Edge Lane

To wrap the day off I made a quick send of Technical Master which went 3rd go. A truely amazing day and I can't wait to come back and try some cracks.