Thursday, 28 February 2008

Mixed Magic

Today Simon, Jacqui and I went into Sneachda again. We climbed on the mixed ground to the right of Jacob's Ladder. This offered a massive range of climbing, from ice, turf and rock. As they led we had the chance to look at placing ice screws and turf gear, as well as more runner placements, belay construction and stance management. There were teams on Jacob's, the Slant, Hidden Chimney and the Direct start. More teams were spread around the corrie. A strong wind was present for most of the day which was moving alot of snow. On descent down the Fiacaill Corrie Cas there was fresh windslab evident on the head wall.

Wednesday, 27 February 2008

Good hard Snow in the Cairngorns

Today I was in Sneachda with Simon and Jacqui. They led Central Gully Left hand on good hard snow. The top section had an excellent ice pitch which took good screws and was at the top of the grade for II. There were many folk out on the trident gullies, Invernookie, the Seam, Jacob's ladder. The gully exits are quite steep, but clear and firm. there is a crusty layer over the top that needs care.

Tuesday, 26 February 2008

Crazy weather to go Climbing

We were Braving the weather and climbed Sidewinder in Lochain. An abseil down Savage Slit meant we avoided the 130mph wind on the summit. One other team climbed Ewan Buttress. The snow pack was very wet and on a firm base. The freezing level is coming down over night and should remain low for a few days at least, making for some improving climbing conditions.

Monday, 25 February 2008

It Just Gets Wilder!

I was in Sneachda today doing some mountaineering. It was extremely windy in the corrie, and even worse on the plateau. We where around the Fiacaill Buttress Point five gully area. There had been fresh snow deposited, with the small sluff passing us every now and again. There was a lot of snow being moved, making the gully exits places to watch carefully.

Saturday, 23 February 2008

The Wild East

It was a very wild day in the cairngorm today. I was working for the EICA with Lee and James. It was a quiet day in Sneachda, a few teams in the trident gullies, a couple in the fiacaill couloir and two teams on Invernookie. One of the these teams was us. It was on the thin side but the turf was frozen. Lee and james has a good day, despite being blown around when escaping the ridge. Another group from the EICA were on the Cas head wall looking at winter skills with Davy. Despite the wind they has a constructive day with the group saying they had learnt alot.

Saturday, 16 February 2008

Good day on the Ben

Today I was out with Richard and Richard from George Watson College working for the EICA We headed onto the Ben to join the crowds on the North Face. Due to a sociable start we began Glover's Chimney a little later than expected. This worked out well as the route was free or us to climb with no one above. The first pitch is not quite complete. This meant it was a little thin and bold for grade III. The rest of the climb was fine, with the upper chimney being thin but very enjoyable.