Wednesday, 30 June 2010

Giggleswick South

Day 3 took us to Giggleswick for a bit of limestone sport action. I was hoping that the style of climbing would be more like what they were used to, and there was the opportunity for some to lead if they wanted. Everyone did really well. There were routes from 4 to 6b rigged, a kids sending all over the place. Marnie was the only one to lead today, but did an awesome job on a tricky 4+, place all the draws as she went. We had great weather all day, with some nice shade in the trees.

Tuesday, 29 June 2010


We made the short walk up to Crookrise today for the groups first taste of grit. They struggled at first to get to grips with the style of climbing, but once they got their heads round it there was no stopping them. They climbed a variety of styles of route from slabs, wall and cracks up to HVS. The slabs proved the harder to master, but this is no suprise, as the majority of their climbing is based at the wall.

Monday, 28 June 2010

George Watson's Summer Rock Trip

It is the start of the Watson's Rock Trip and hopefully a great week. I met everyone at Warton small quarry today. This broke up their journey to Malham and gave a good intro day. The group climbed 10 routes from Severe to VS, setting a good standard for the rest of the trip.

Sunday, 27 June 2010


Today was the last of Jonny's trip down south. He only had the morning before his train back to Glasgow, so we went for a bit of a boulder at Woodhouse Scar. Despite being knackered from the week, we managed a few problems up to V6 before the body gave in and it warmed up too much.

Saturday, 26 June 2010

A Step in the Light Green

Above: Jonny on Thin Red Line

For our final day cragging we went to Heptonstall today. The main aim was to try the 3 star A Step in the Light Green. We warmed up on Brown Sugar E2 5c, which has good climbing from start to finish. Our sights then turned to A Step in the Light Green. At E6 6b, we expected some pretty hard climbing. Jonny was up first, and had a bit of trouble with reach to get out of the HVS it starts up and into the route proper. After reversing to the ground to save the onsight, I was up. I, with my superior height cruised into the route and into the crux. It was hard to clip the peg, and used more energy than I thought it would. Struggling to find the right hold to move up, I reversed to the ground as will. After a fall from both of us, Jonny got the route ground up on his 3rd go. I made it to the top, but with an unnecessary rest (weak), but will come back and do it properly. We finished with a quick run up a Thin Red Line, a 3 star E2 5b that pack a punch.
Below: Jonny on Thin Red Line

Friday, 25 June 2010

Too Tired

We went to Pen Trwyn today to try and crank it out, It turns out we were kidding ourselves. After trying to warm up on Axle Attack, we went down to LPT. I onsighted under the boardwalk, and we called it a day. Back in Yorkshire now, and one day left for Jonny and I to get something to done, lets hope the weather hopes out.

Thursday, 24 June 2010


Above & Below: Me on Aardvark

Jonny and I went to main cliff today. I led Aardvark to get warmed up, which was an excellent route. Varied climbing, quite serious near the start. The extremely dry grass was giving me and Jonny a kicking. So, struggling to see and pretty tired from the last few days, we went back to the car for some hayfever pills. We dropped into South Stack and climbed North West Passage, which is an outstanding route. also, we knew Martin and Pamela already had a ab rope set up.

Above: Martin and Jonny at Castle Helen

Above & below: Jonny on North West Passage.

Wednesday, 23 June 2010

Back Up The Pass

Above: What a Difference a Day Makes

Today we went back up the pass to finish what was started yesterday at the Gravestones. We started on Hidden Wall where I led What a difference a day makes, which is an excellent and varied E4. Jonny was psyched to get back on Ring my bell, so we popped back down to try that. After falling off on his first shot of the day, he had a quick rest and dispatched the crux to the halfway ledge. After much debate he picked a way up and right to finish, an awesome effort and his second E7.

Below: Ring My Bell

We then went to watch the football, which was the most stressful part of the day.

Below: The Mau Mau

After the footy we went up to the slate quarries to do the Mau Mau. Jonny led this, and again another brilliant route.

Tuesday, 22 June 2010

The Gravestones

We walked up to the Gravestones to avoid the sun and crowds in the pass. I made a quick headpoint solo of a slab route called King of Rumpy E6 6a. It was a bit dirty, so the chance to check it out on a rope first was a good idea. The climbing was pretty easy, but extremely serious with a drystone wall to land on. Jonny had a go, but was rescued for the top when he Poooed himself tried the last hard move.

Jonny then had a go on Ring My Bell. He was trying this ground up and did pretty well, getting to the last few hard moves before the ledge. We will be back up there again this week for some unfinished business.

Monday, 21 June 2010

Suicide Wall

Above & below: Jonny on Suicide Wall

Today was the first of mine and Jonny's trip down to Wales and we headed into Idwall. We went for Suicide Wall Route 1 first, which Jonny led cooly. I then did Capital Punishment. This has been down graded in the new guides to E3 5c, I would say that it is benchmark E4 5c. Sustained and serious climbing with possible ground falls. This said, both routes were outstanding.

Above: Me on Capital Punishment

Saturday, 19 June 2010

Dutch Army on the Ben

Today the Dutch massive went on mass to conquer Ben Nevis. It was a stunning day, with a pleasent breeze which made the walking a bit easier. It was a good way to finish their first week before their exercise neext week.

The Unit on the summit

Thursday, 17 June 2010


Above: Black Friday

I went to Glen Nevis today with Andy to do a few routes whilst the Dutch had a rest day. We went up to Styx Buttress and did the classic Resurection and a few other warm up routes. Then I descided to try Black Friday. Descibed as a well protected struggle, it was not lying. It was much harder and technical than I thought it looked. After a couple of falls I managed to top out, taking in some very physical and creative climbing on the way. To finish the day we walked over to Calvary Crack Buttess to climb the super classic storm, a great way to finish the day.

Above & Below: Andy on Storm

Wednesday, 16 June 2010

Dutch Army

For the last 2 days I have been working for Andy Wardle (Focus Mountaineering) with the Dutch Army. They are over to do some team building as well as training in an environment they are not used to.

Day 1 took us out of Kinlochleven and up to Blackwater. We then walked over the tops and back into Kinlochleven.

Day 2 took us into Glen Coe and up the Lost Vally. We crossed from there into Corie Nan Lochain before heading back down to the pick up.

We looked at a number of things over the 2 days to build on their skills.

Monday, 14 June 2010


I met up With Jonny, Geek, Grey, Mhairi and Patryk a Upper cave today. Suffering with hayfever, my psyche was a little low, but was rekindled by Jonny and Geek. After a quick toprope, Jonnie tied on and dispatched Natural High to claim his first E7. Geek, now armed with all the beta, put in a superb display to flash the route for his first E7.

Jonny on Natural High

I then tied on and onsighted post Mortem. This follows Corpse to the cave, then takes the very steep wall above to create a direct finish. Very good climbing, but not as hard as the tech grade suggests.
Me on Post Mortem

Saturday, 12 June 2010

CWA Training

After a few days training at the EICA Ratho this week I had to do some work.

Today I was running the second day of a Climbing Wall Award Training course. After refreshing some of the things covered on the first day, we moved onto the group management and supervion side of the award. After a short lunch break we then covered all aspects of the Abseil module as well.

All 4 candidates went away with a lot to work on, and new ideas to try out,

Friday, 4 June 2010

Too Hot for Grit

Yesterday I met up with James and Ieuan and went to Widdop hoping to find some shade. Despite finding a bit of shade, the temperature was a little too high to strap one on. However, I thought I would give a steep, sloppy arete climb a go. After much chalking up and brushing a I went, I had to reverse down and admit defeat to the heat. We salvaged the day with a little bouldering, but grit season is over.
Above: Sweaty sloppers on Stage Fright

Today I was on my own again, so I went to Heptonstall to do a few laps on Red wall. After 8 routes and the sun hitting the wall I bailed. A production morning.