Wednesday, 19 December 2012

Weeping Angel

My obsession with Woodhouse has been due to the fact that my time has been more limited lately, with more   time taken up with Rose etc. so quick hour hits are what I have.  The 5 min drive and excellent problems, are a bonus.  The weather has been pretty poor of late, and the remaining harder problems by the Sheriff have been wet.  Thankfully, the Clingen Face is pretty much perma dry.  There were a couple of eliminates in the guide I had not done, so finishing them off made sense.  I also had a link up in mind that would combine all the hard sections of the 3 hardest problems on the face.

I went there yesterday hoping to do the link, but the starting holds suffer with seepage.  Instead, I worked the end out, which is 1 of the remaining eliminates I had not done.  A fierce, fingery V8 6c with the crux at the end.  It took an hour or so to warm my finger's up enough and do the problem.  I found the last hard move hard, and can only stick it 1 in 5 goes.
Catching the crux dyno on Eliminate 6
 Today Elliot met me there, and with dry holds it was on.  After warming up, we did the remaining eliminate I was missing a cheeky V6 6c* dyno in the middle of the face.  Elliot made a fine solo flash of Clingen E2 5c***, which climbs all the way through the roof above the problems.  I got stuck into the link, and it did not take long to put together having done it all on different recently.  After failing to hold the last hard move after 3 shots, my finger tip only had one more good go in it.  Thankfully, I managed to stick it, JUST!! And Weeping Angel font 7c* is born.
Holding the crux at the end of Weeping Angel

Description:  Weeping Angel 7c*  It starts by climbing Angel face roof eliminate to the slot from here reverse Angel face to it's start, then climb the V8 eliminate. Sustained, with the hardest move right at the end.

Sunday, 16 December 2012

Angel's Crossing and Shopping

Angel's Crossing

I made a long way around journey to Asda this morning, so I could get a quick hour in at Woodhouse.  There is still a project, that to my knowledge has not been done.  So I thought I would have a look, as the harder eliminate on the Sheriff really highlights a weakness that needs major work.  It was a little damp first thing, so after warming up on the easy Clingen Face Eliminates, I had a look at the project.  The crux involves some big moves on poor edges, but with no real help from your feet to start.  I didn't have long, so knowing I have already done the start, and the crux needs a lot of work, I looked at the end.  When I looked in the guide it finished up the end of a eliminate I had missed, Angel's Crossing V6 6b*/font 7a.  I was pretty happy when I flashed this, so it's just the nails middle section that needs sorting.  It is an open project in the Cameron Duff guide, which starts climbing a V9/font 7b+, then traverses via big moves on poor holds, to finish up the meat of a V6/font 7a eliminate.

Worth a look.

A short vid

Thursday, 13 December 2012

Ticking Over on the Eliminates

Elliot needed a short day, so it was back to Woodhouse.  After warming up on a good range of problems on cave buttress, we headed to the Sheriff boulder.  We got stuck into an eliminate on the Sheriff which does not use the crack, but everything else.  The Deputy font 7b+, is a worthwhile problem in its own right.  A few shots, and I slapped my way over the top.  Elliot got very close, but the last move proved too awkward.  We then had a burn on Mango font 7c, but the final moves are still proving hard to climb into.
Pulling hard on the Deputy

By this time Gary had turned up and reacquainted himself with the Sheriff, and got very close to the Deputy.  As Ben and Alister arrived we moved back over to Cave buttress.  Here I climbed the Low Low Traverse font 7a+ to show those that had not done it, where it went.  I then did the other font 7a+ eliminate that goes straight up.  Everyone sent large, before 3 of us moved on to Angel Face.  Alister wanted to do Angel Face font 7b+, and did so quite quickly with helpful tips from Ben and I.  Ben tried the Eliminate and got very close, but the shoulder press was proving too burly today.

As I left, the 2 youths, were trying to use all the daylight hours as they headed back to work on something else.

The Video shows Alister's smooth ascent of Angel Face and my floundering finish on the Deputy.

Tuesday, 11 December 2012

Sometimes it's just a struggle

Morrell's Traverse

I met up with Dan and John at Almscliff today with high hopes after recent outings.  Things felt ok warming up on a range of easy routes and problems, but it was soon evident that it was not my day when I tried a little harder.  Some of the trickier problems I fancied as quick ticks, gave me a quick kicking.  Feeling hard done by, we went to some old favourites.  After falling off The Doplhin Belly Slap a couple of times, the toys were ejected from the pram.  Once I put my dumby back in, and climbed it properly, things started to look up.  After a first go send of Demon Wall Roof, I was happy again and started thinking bigger.  I made good progress on Demon Wall Roof Left Hand V9 font 7c, falling off the last hard move before I can stand up and finish.  This happened a few times, running out steam we moved on, but it should go next time.  We then went and made a quick ascent of Patta's Arete V6 font 7a.  I dropped the onsight when my heel slipped off, but got it next shot.
Dan working hard on Patta's Arete

We wrapped the day up with a few easy classics as the light started to fade.  a great day.

Thursday, 6 December 2012

Sendage and Bleeding Tips

After failed attempts last night to get good reports to go winter climbing either in Wales or the Lakes, Elliot and I opted for a morning session at Woodhouse.  Elliot was hoping to take advantage of my recent efforts there, and make a couple of quick ascents.

Elliot working hard on Angel Face
 Conditions were perfect, but like yesterday warming up was hard work.  Once we ready to let rip, we started at the Sheriff V8/9 6c font 7b/+.  To my surprise, I gave a smooth demo sending it first go.  Elliot then took full advantage of me beta and sent it second go.  I had a quick try on Mango V9 font 7c and got to the crux last 2 moves, but was not to sure that today was the best day with sore skin etc. from yesterday.  Instead we went to look at Angel Face V9 6c font 7b+.  Again, Elliot was hoping my beta would make this a quick tick today.  Valiant efforts were put in, but Failure came right at the end on a couple of goes.  When he returns fresh, it will go not problem.

Pressing hard to reach the slot

I had been told about Angel Face Roof Eliminate V9 6c font 7b+.  Which, as the name suggests is an eliminate that works in to Angel Face.  A hard start under the roof, into a powerful shoulder press allows the slot of Angel Face to be gained.  The best hold on the arete is eliminated to give a slightly harder finish, also making the sequence different.  A good problem in its own right.  I did Angel Face again, as well as the Interface boulder problem V7 font 7a+.

Enjoy something a little easier on Interface Boulder Start

As we both ran out of steam, the snow came.  Given a natural end to a great morning.

Wednesday, 5 December 2012

Crucifixion and The Worm


I was up early with Rose this morning, so got out early to make the most of the cold morning.  Was at the Bridies, warming up became the hardest part of the day, with the temp at -1 degrees.  A few problems later, Hot aches out of the way, it was time to try and send some unfinished business, Crucifixion V9/font 7c***.  With only my mats today, they had to be strategically placed.  This also would give me the impetus to man up fully and go for it.  Thankfully, this is exactly what happened.  I got very close on the first go, but nailed it second try today.  The big difference being where my heel was, and getting an intermediate hold to help bridge the gap.
A clue to how it gets it's name

Awesome moves

Spotting the holds

Super psyched, I turned my attention to the long version of The Worm V10.font 7c+ on the Tilted Pinnacle.  Having done most of the problems on here, especially the one that shares the same end.  I was hopeful I might get it done quickly.  The fact that conditions were good, and the style of the climbing in the hard section suits me, went in my favor.  Once I had worked out the crux moves to join the arete and link all that, I was held off for far long by the final moves.  A mixture of gritty holds and failing arms looked like it was going to ruin what had been a perfect morning.  After chilling in the sun, and taking a good long break, I thought I had a couple more good efforts in me.  I was very happy and surprised when I swung my right foot around on to the slab and rocked over to finish, YEAH!!!!!

It has been fantastic to see the effort I have been putting in to improve my bouldering paying off.  I am by no means a finished article, but if I pic my problems I have a chance.

I managed to get some good shots before my camera batteries gave up.

Sunday, 2 December 2012

Bridies at its Best

A stunning day at the Bridestones
I met up with Elliot quite early this morning with plans of new routes, but it was not to be as wet crux holds killed any attempt today.  Instead, we took advantage of a stunning day and went up to the Bridies.  After a good warm up, we decided to get straight on Crucifixion V9/font 7c before the sun warmed the rock to much.  Quick progress was made, getting through the crux, but dropping it on the last move.  I had a few goes, but could not find a hold to use to get to the jug.  Nevermind,  once I have the beta it will go next time.
Quality heel hook move making the slopers feel better than they look
We mooched about on some other problems, but some were suffering in the sun.  Nine V6/font 7a is a cool little problem hidden away, and in the shade.  These excellent conditions, saw a rapid send for both of us.  I need a few days off to let all the aches and pains subside, whilst growing back some skin after a productive weeks bouldering.  Not quite Trad or Winter climbing, but not too bad once you get into it.

Elliot in send mode!

A big move to finish off those holds

Friday, 30 November 2012

Angel Face

Reachy, powerful moves at the start
Through the crux hand swap and setting up for the powerful finish
After a rest day yesterday, which involved a long day of staff training and a safety review at Challenge 4 Change. I was pretty psyched to get back to Woodhouse and see if I could finish off Angel Face V9 6c/font 7b+.    I met Huw there, and spent a bit of time trying to warm up in the excellent, but very cold conditions.  After putting in half an hour or so on Wednesday and feeling like it was close, I had high hopes that it might be possible today.  Not fully warmed up, we headed over to the problem to finish warming up, whilst sorting the moves.  I was disheartened when all the moves felt so hard today, after it feeling so close 2 days ago.  As we persevered, and the body warmed up, I had suddenly done the problem in 2 overlapping halves.  Game on!!  After a good rest, the problem went really smoothly and felt amazing.  I was pretty over the moon, and amazed it only took about an hour of effort.

Crafty heels to power up

very happy to hit the jug

I did try to go and do something else, but had used up all my efforts for the day already.  Cutting my loses, it was in to town for coffee and cake with Em.

Wednesday, 28 November 2012

The Sheriff

With the rain finally stopping, it is good to live in grit country.  An evening and morning of dry weather and there are loads of options to go climbing.  I only had a couple of hours today, so opted to head to Woodhouse Scar and finish off the Sheriff V8/9 font 7b/+.  A quick go last week with loads of beta saw me get very close, but just 1 move was awkward to link.  Today I had a different idea about the move and the problem went first go.
Getting stuck into the Sheriff

Always easy when you know how

Psyched with this I had a play on Angel Face V9 font 7b+.  I managed this in 2, but the crux finger swaps in the middle is hard.  Hopefully this will go soon.

Monday, 26 November 2012

SPA Training

Over the weekend I have been directing an SPA Training in the Peak District,  There were 5 strong candidates on the course, and they made the most of a cold, clear day at Stanage for the personal climbing section of the award.  As the light was about to start fading, we moved to The Foundry to look at the use of climbing walls and some problem solving.

Yesterday was spent at a windy, but thankfully dry Burbage North as the rain had come through during the night.  Here we covered all the group aspect of the syllabus, and had a bit of fun weaseling too.

I am hoping the weather will improve through the week and I can finally get on the lead of my new route project.  Too many days have been thwarted by the weather.

Thursday, 22 November 2012

Almscliff Classics

I met Elliot just after 9 this morning at Almscliff, hoping to get a good session in before the weather hit.  We warmed up soloing around the lower man routes up to HVS 6a and some easy problems, before heading up top.  The wind was not too bad and the friction was pretty good.  After climbing the Crucifix and some of it's variations, Elliot had a go at his nemesis problem. Pebble Wall V5/font 6c.  I was very kind to go first and show how easy it is, but yet again, it holding Elliot at bay.  John and Stu turned, and John rubbed salt in the wounds when he casually slipped his shoes on and sent it.

Nicely around Demon Wall Roof
Demon Wall Roof V7/font 7a+ is an Almscliff super classic, which is apparently easy when you know how.  I had never had a serious go on this, thinking it was not my thing, but Elliot had the knowledge having sent it on Sunday.  Armed with Elliot's beta and his demo, It went down in 5 goes, sweet!!  We had a few good shots on Pebble Wall Variation V8, but both failed on the last move.  With the friction feeling good, we had a crack at Dreamland V7/font 7a+.  This is an extremely frustrating problem, but both Elliot and I hit the sloper, but failed to hold it.  Rather spend all day on one problem, we moved on.

Crimping hard on Si's Arete
Elliot made a quality flash of Syrett's Roof V5/font 6c+, I and got stuck into Si's Arete V7/font 7a+.  John explained the sequence, and it went pretty quickly for Stu and I.  After a few other things.  Elliot and I had a go on The Bulge V7/8 font 7a+/b, which climbs the bulge left of Wall of Horrors start direct to the jug.  I was getting tired and sacked it off thinking there were still a few hard moves to work out.  Elliot stuck with it, and worked out one more move to finish.  Spared on, shoes back on I latched the jug first go.  A great way to finish a productive session.

Elliot in send mode
The Bulge
Latching the jug!!!

Friday, 16 November 2012

New Kit for Winter

As the winter get closer, I am starting to get myself sorted.  This has been helped along with a delivery of new kit from Edelrid.  Most of this kit is new for 2012-13,
Sticky (top left), HMS Magnum, Raid and Sturdy (right)

The Raid alpine/mountaineering ice axe is a really well balance axe that will offer good security, as well as being a great functional tool.

The HMS Magnum is well designed large carabiner, with an extra large gate opening.  Perfect for winter when fumbling around in big gloves.

A perfect glove for winter climbing is hard to find, but Edelrid have put quite a bit of thought into it.  It is the thin glove that seems hard to get right, but the 2 new additions, the Sticky and Sturdy are top draw.  The sticky is the thinner of the two.  Made from synthetic leather to be robust, and with a thin fleece lining on the back of the hand to offer a little bit of warmth without compromising grip.  The Sturdy is the thicker warmer option.  Made from goats leather and with protectors for knuckles.  These also have a warm fleece lining on the back of the hand, and a thin layer in the palms.  Both models have an excellent fitting around the wrist.

Sunday, 11 November 2012

West Nab

Today I had a quick hit at West Nab for the first time.  This is another venue the Over the Moors guide has brought to my attention, as well as being a feature in the latest addition of Climb.  A huge cluster of boulders on the moor top, spread over a km makes for an interesting bouldering venue.  I only spent an hour today, but enjoyed the few problems I did.  The pick of the day was Hours of Practice font 7a, a tricky little slab.

Hitting the top on Hours of Practice
There had been a shower before we got there, so some things were a little damp.  Despite facing South, some faces are sheltered from the breeze, so did not dry as quickly as others.  Something to remember for the next visit.

Saturday, 10 November 2012

Hunter's Stone and Snowden

I met up with Huw and some of his uni mates for a boulder today.  First up we went to Hunter's Stone.  These boulders were only uncovered when the woods they where hiding in were cut down.  Despite being a bit gritty and dirty, I managed to knock up 15 good problems up to font 6c+.
Sam earning full man points on Optical illusion

Huw sending Nigel's Roof LH

We moved on to Snowden, which has a few good boulders sticking out of the hillside.  After a quick onsight for me and flash for Sam of the intimidating Optical Illusion font 6c, with it's extremely big fall, we moved over to Nigel's Roof.  After a few goes both Huw and I sent Nigel's Roof LH font 7a.  I had to leave early, but the others were still getting stuck in.

Monday, 5 November 2012

Marrow Bone Jelly

This morning has been glorious and conditions grit outstanding.  I was on Daddy daycare duties from lunchtime on, so got out early to Caley to take advantage of the weather.  After the usual laps of Otley Wall and Fork Lightening Crack to warm up, I dropped a rope down Marrow Bone Jelly E7 6b***.  Once graded 7a, the grade has slowly come down to settle at 6b, which seemed bang on.
committing onto the slab
After abing and brushing the holds and getting an idea of what to do, I had a go belaying myself on a grigri as I went.  I prefer this method to a shunt, as I always think if I can hang around to belay, then the climbing is not as taxing as if I were slapping my way up not having to think about it.  The climbing is my sort of thing, technical, balancy, but not physical.  I was pretty happy to get it 1st go.  After a few move topropes I soloed the route, super happy to have ticked a classic.  The crux at the top was not the hard part for me, I found the moves just below getting to the hands off rest the trickiest section, and a little reachy.  That said, there was a fair bit of a mental crux at those top moves.

With the job done it was back home to do my parenting duties.

Thanks to Mrs Dog Walker for the pic on my phone

Friday, 2 November 2012

Winter Blues

Whilst friends up north start their winter season, I am suffering with a serious case of FOMO.  The conditions on the Ben are good, but the cracks are very icy according to Guy and Al (more info on Al's blog climb when your ready).  Thing in the gorms seem to be in good condition too, and a little less icy for now.

To take my mind off this and stop me constantly watch the weather.  I took advantage of a dry morning and strong wind to bag a couple of routes.  With belayer in tow, I finished off the final routes at Worlow Quarry I had not done.  Things still had the odd damp patch, but it was easy to work around or it simply was not an issue.  I warmed up on some of the easy routes and added a direct start to a current HVS finish, before leading Bengal Badger E2 5c and Ammon Wrigley's Mechanical Verse E3 6a*.  Both of these were tricky and felt bold.  I then got stuck into to brushing a very green Two Dead Sheep E5 6a*.  Once I thought I'd brushed the right holds I went for the flash, only to be ejected at the top as I went the wrong way.  After a second look and more brushing I worked out where it went.  It went better next lead, but was a real finger burlfest on small holds.  I thought 6b tech grade would be fairer and F7b overall reflects the climbing.

It was good to get something done before the afternoon rain, but I am still keen to get the axes out.

Wednesday, 31 October 2012

Bouldering Bonanza

Above:  Trying hard on Armistice
With the weather due to turn poor this afternoon, I was out early to try soe of the boulder problems at Baildon Bank.  Not the world best crag I know but the problems looked quite good on  Everything was nice and dry, so a bit of soloing around to warm up and a swift flash of Lay Away sit start V3 and the V3 next to Heavy Duty saw me ready to try something.  That something ended up being the cool, but very steep arete of Armistice V9/font 7c. After a fair bit of effort I was getting close, but struggled to get my feet set for the final move to the jug.  Maybe next time.  Instead I managed to send Who Are We Without Moon V7/font 7a+.  I cool technical sequence on layaways led to a hard dyno to finish.  Getting tired and expecting the rain to come soon I decided to go and check out Shipley Glen.

Only one more move, but it's a hard one!
Above: Side pull trickery on Who Are We Without Moon
I had never been to Shipley Glen before, so as it was still not raining I took my mats to have a look.  After wondering around for ages, I finally stood beneath Manson's and Phil's Wall.  I could not resist having a go, but came off Manson's Wall V5 on my first 2 goes.  A good brush was given, and the send happen next go.  Phil's Wall V7/font 7a+ required a whole lot more effort.  The holds are quite bad on this problem, and it was more by sheer will I managed it today.  The battle between sore fingers and taking the fall from the top for a 3rd time, was won by the fingers, Thank God!!

Getting stuck into the crux of Phil's Wall

It is fair to say I will be back to the Glen

Monday, 29 October 2012

In Between the Rain

I had a couple of hours this morning to sneak out and get something done.  There was a new link up at Woodhouse I had my eye on, so the 3 min drive down there seemed to make the most sense.  It took a while to warm up, but once I got going things seemed to go well.  I quickly dispatched the last of the V7 6c problems on Cave Buttress I had not done before.  This stiff eliminate was a good way to get in gear for the link up I was going to try.  Despite the odd light shower, the problem stayed dry enough where it mattered.  The link climbs the existing V7 6c low traverse to within one hold of finishing, then joins the V5 6b mid level traverse from only one move in.  Linking the two together creates a very pumpy V8 6c/font 7b, which I have called In Between the Rain.
working hard through the crux of the first problem

Happy with my quick hit and home for lunch.

Sunday, 28 October 2012

CWA Assessment

A challenging day of assessment for the 4 candidates today.  A very mixed performance by all, meant that there were sadly no passes today.  It goes to show that the CWA is not a gimme award and a lot of time and effort is needed to successfully navigate the assessment.

On a positive note, there has been a good mix of climbing over the weekend in the Northern Corries.  Many of the steeper rocky buttress routes looked in excellent early season condition.  Things are warming up a little, then the temp is dropping again and hopefully bringing a little more snow.

Break out the tool!!!!

Friday, 26 October 2012

A Busy Week

I had a couple of hours to kill on Friday morning, so made a cheeky solo ascent of Spanner Eyes E4 6c* at Running Hill Pits.  This was the only thing that was dry that I had not climbed before.  The ground seems to have finally soaked up a lot of water causing seepage here and no doubt other crags that suffer.

Over the weekend I was in the Peak running an SPA Training course.  The crags were extremely busy with Uni groups as mini buses and coaches dropped them off.  The weather was excellent all weekend and help make a good course.

Monday was the start on a week in the Lakes based in Patterdale.  I was working with a group of young people who are taking part in the National Citizen Scheme, of which this adventure week makes up half.  As with all development weeks, the activities are a way of highlighting and teaching skills that can then be taken and applied to their everyday lives.  After the first day of intros and simple dynamic type games, we were straight out on expedition.  A challenging walk for some, took us to Red Tarn to camp.  After a quick brew we walked up on to the Summit of Catstycam 890m.  Once back at camp a good night of food and games took us through to a chilly night and simple walk out in the morning.  Yesterday the week ended with a great day climbing and Gyll scrambling before the group departed.  A successful week that has left the group positive and ready for the next part of the scheme.

Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Worlow Quarry (Where???)

After last nights rain I was not really sure where might be dry.  I took a chance and headed over to Running Hill Pits hoping to wrap up a couple of hard solo routes left to do.  Unfortunately, the wind had not dried things enough yet.  I nipped down into the 8th pit to do a few things there I had not done to give things time to dry in the wind.
Powering through the crux of A Fist Full of Daggers

There where a few of the bouldery highballs dry, Firefly V3 (HVS 6a) and A Fist Full of Daggers E1 6b** the best of the bunch.  Back up in the main pits, things were drying well, but not quite quick enough.  Rather than sitting around for a couple of hours, I opted to have a look at somewhere different, Worlow Quarry.

The picture in the new guide makes it look like there is a chance a visit could offer a surprise, this is exactly what I got.  Not only did the routes look worth doing, but it was as dry as a bone.  I spent about an hour and fifteen minute there and managed to solo 17 of the 20 routes, all pretty good.  The haul included: 1 x VD 4a, 3 x S 4b, 2 x HS 4b, 3 x VS 4c/5a, 2 x HVS 5a/b, 4 x E1 5b, 1 x E2 6a and 2 x E3 5c.  My recovering finger was getting tired and I didn't want to re injure it so I called it a day.  I'll be back for the remaining 3, but will definitely need a rope for 1.

This is a good crag to visit for those who like well protected E1's with good climbing.  It can also be combined with another crag in the area.

Monday, 15 October 2012

Gesticulation on Scar Wall

After the rain last night and drizzle this morning, Dan and I found dry rock at Baildon Bank.  Despite the appearance and it's overall tip like nature, some of the climbing here is pretty good,

We warmed up in the drizzle on Hades VS 4c***, but the psyche was low for easy routes in less than stella conditions.  Both Dan and I wanted to do Scar Wall E5 6b* which looked dry.  Dan had already toproped this, so he opted to ab and see if it was dry and clean.  I was keen for the flash, so abseiled and cleaned Gesticulation E4 6b around the corner.  As I had finished quickly, I popped a mat down and thankfully soloed the route to tick off my 100th E4.

Dan was now finished and had opted to give the route a quick toprope again,  Unfortunately, sore elbows meant he was not on full gas today.  I quickly nipped up Scar E2 5c*** to properly warm up and then thought I would get stuck into Scar Wall.  The route is pretty bold, with the crux at half height above a boulder.  Thankfully the crux it not that hard, just a little reachy and I was through and to the top quickly.

We moved to the far quarry where Dan finished off our day on Triang HVS 5a*, a route that had not seen too much attention of late.

Saturday, 13 October 2012

CWA Assessment

Today I was running a CWA Assessment which was based at the Leeds Wall.  It was a pretty strong group of candidates, which meant all but one passed the CWA.  It was a similar pattern for the Abseil module as well, with only one missing out.

Congratulation to everyone for a good day.

Friday, 12 October 2012

The Numbers hits Bridies!

Pete (the Numbers) came across from York with the aim of going to Heptonstall for a specific route.  Unfortunately, the overnight rain ruined that option.  This took us up to the Bridestones.  Pete had never climbed here, I am still trying to get some mileage under my belt for my finger, so it was a great option.

We cruised around a whole host of problems from V2 to V7, starting at the Brother boulder and finishing on the Cheeseblock.  We deliberately did a lot of problems that are not Pete's style, and he was lovin' it.  The highlight for me was Pete flashing Smart and Smarter.  Both V4 and tricky, these see off many a good climber.

The wind had taken it's toll, so we popped down to Woodhouse Scar on the way back to the train station.  Pete swiftly dispatched, Bisto HVS 5b**, Fairy Steps HVS 5b* and Twin Cracks VS 4b* which proved to be the perfect warm down.

A good day and off for coffee.

Tuesday, 9 October 2012

Finger Therapy Continues

Em, Rose and I headed up onto Ogden Moor for a pootle as it was such a stunning afternoon.  I took my shoes etc. along as we were only going as far as Ogden Clough.  This great little crag offers some excellent routes up to E3, all at a reasonable height to solo.

Lovin' the Moors
Whilst Em and Rose chilled out in the mini tent, I had a quick half hour flying up routes.  3 HVS's, 3 E1's and 3 E2's later, we were headed to Great Grandma's for tea and cake.  The finger/forearm continues to improve, so finger's crossed it will be back to normal soon.

Monday, 8 October 2012

A Recovering Arm and Jerry's Arete

Since straining my finger/forearm in font, I have been on rest and recovery duty for the past 10 days.  I went out today thinking I would just clean a new problem, but had to change plans when it was soaked.
Jerry's Arete 
The Bridestones was only 10 mins away, so I nipped up there to cruise some easy problems and see how thinks felt.  After climbing the majority of the problems on the Brother and Sister boulder and feeling good, I decided to try Jerry's Arete V9.  This does really require too much pulling on the fingers of the left hand, so hopefully if would be ok.  After a few failed efforts, everything clicked I was fighting with a slightly damp topout.  I thought I would do it again for the video, but could not seem to get everything to work again.

Cheeseblock Left Arete

Down to Small Smart wall and a quick dispatch of the problems there.  Then the Cheese Block.  The Left Arete V7 6c first go, but the holds on the other problems felt a little tweaky, so I left them allow.  More problem sent by the Bridestone to make a good tally of 32, and home.  So happy to be out and not too far from recovering fully.

SPA Assessment

Last Wednesday and Thursday I was enjoying the lovely weather in the Peak whilst working on a SPA Assessment.  A good day was spent at Froggatt for the personal climbing side of the award, and the group aspect was covered at Burbage North on Day 2.  Everyone put in a good performance, but sadly a couple of folks will need to come back for a day.

My finger is slowly getting better, and I have hopes to be out cranking next week.

Monday, 1 October 2012

Font with the Family

topping out on L'Elephant

I have been away in Font with the family and friends with their young children.  We even managed to fit in a bit of climbing.  After chilling out for a day after the drive, I got stuck into things reasonably quickly.  The weather was very mixed and I was not keen to project things as I was not sure how many days would be spent climbing.  I spent a bit of time at Franchard Cuisiniere, L'Elephant, Bas Cuvier and La Rohce aux Sabots.

Rose supervising at Bas Cuvier

sending Excalibur

Rose and Mummy trying to see what all the fuss is about

Duz on a cool font 6b, Franchard Cuisiniere

The highlights for me were:

Excalibur font 7a** second go
Beetlejuice font 7a+***
Bizarre Bizarre font 7a** on sight
Bizarre Bizarre assis 7a+** second go
Biocage Mental assis 7a+**
L'Helicoptere 7a **
Biocage Mental assis

With baby schedules, I was managing quick hits in the morning, then short easy sessions in the afternoon.  The trip ended painfully for me when I strained a finger tendon on the final problem of the final day.  Gutted, but it seems to be recovering well.  Hopefully, a week should see me back in action,