Thursday, 6 December 2012

Sendage and Bleeding Tips

After failed attempts last night to get good reports to go winter climbing either in Wales or the Lakes, Elliot and I opted for a morning session at Woodhouse.  Elliot was hoping to take advantage of my recent efforts there, and make a couple of quick ascents.

Elliot working hard on Angel Face
 Conditions were perfect, but like yesterday warming up was hard work.  Once we ready to let rip, we started at the Sheriff V8/9 6c font 7b/+.  To my surprise, I gave a smooth demo sending it first go.  Elliot then took full advantage of me beta and sent it second go.  I had a quick try on Mango V9 font 7c and got to the crux last 2 moves, but was not to sure that today was the best day with sore skin etc. from yesterday.  Instead we went to look at Angel Face V9 6c font 7b+.  Again, Elliot was hoping my beta would make this a quick tick today.  Valiant efforts were put in, but Failure came right at the end on a couple of goes.  When he returns fresh, it will go not problem.

Pressing hard to reach the slot

I had been told about Angel Face Roof Eliminate V9 6c font 7b+.  Which, as the name suggests is an eliminate that works in to Angel Face.  A hard start under the roof, into a powerful shoulder press allows the slot of Angel Face to be gained.  The best hold on the arete is eliminated to give a slightly harder finish, also making the sequence different.  A good problem in its own right.  I did Angel Face again, as well as the Interface boulder problem V7 font 7a+.

Enjoy something a little easier on Interface Boulder Start

As we both ran out of steam, the snow came.  Given a natural end to a great morning.

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