Wednesday, 19 December 2012

Weeping Angel

My obsession with Woodhouse has been due to the fact that my time has been more limited lately, with more   time taken up with Rose etc. so quick hour hits are what I have.  The 5 min drive and excellent problems, are a bonus.  The weather has been pretty poor of late, and the remaining harder problems by the Sheriff have been wet.  Thankfully, the Clingen Face is pretty much perma dry.  There were a couple of eliminates in the guide I had not done, so finishing them off made sense.  I also had a link up in mind that would combine all the hard sections of the 3 hardest problems on the face.

I went there yesterday hoping to do the link, but the starting holds suffer with seepage.  Instead, I worked the end out, which is 1 of the remaining eliminates I had not done.  A fierce, fingery V8 6c with the crux at the end.  It took an hour or so to warm my finger's up enough and do the problem.  I found the last hard move hard, and can only stick it 1 in 5 goes.
Catching the crux dyno on Eliminate 6
 Today Elliot met me there, and with dry holds it was on.  After warming up, we did the remaining eliminate I was missing a cheeky V6 6c* dyno in the middle of the face.  Elliot made a fine solo flash of Clingen E2 5c***, which climbs all the way through the roof above the problems.  I got stuck into the link, and it did not take long to put together having done it all on different recently.  After failing to hold the last hard move after 3 shots, my finger tip only had one more good go in it.  Thankfully, I managed to stick it, JUST!! And Weeping Angel font 7c* is born.
Holding the crux at the end of Weeping Angel

Description:  Weeping Angel 7c*  It starts by climbing Angel face roof eliminate to the slot from here reverse Angel face to it's start, then climb the V8 eliminate. Sustained, with the hardest move right at the end.

Sunday, 16 December 2012

Angel's Crossing and Shopping

Angel's Crossing

I made a long way around journey to Asda this morning, so I could get a quick hour in at Woodhouse.  There is still a project, that to my knowledge has not been done.  So I thought I would have a look, as the harder eliminate on the Sheriff really highlights a weakness that needs major work.  It was a little damp first thing, so after warming up on the easy Clingen Face Eliminates, I had a look at the project.  The crux involves some big moves on poor edges, but with no real help from your feet to start.  I didn't have long, so knowing I have already done the start, and the crux needs a lot of work, I looked at the end.  When I looked in the guide it finished up the end of a eliminate I had missed, Angel's Crossing V6 6b*/font 7a.  I was pretty happy when I flashed this, so it's just the nails middle section that needs sorting.  It is an open project in the Cameron Duff guide, which starts climbing a V9/font 7b+, then traverses via big moves on poor holds, to finish up the meat of a V6/font 7a eliminate.

Worth a look.

A short vid

Thursday, 13 December 2012

Ticking Over on the Eliminates

Elliot needed a short day, so it was back to Woodhouse.  After warming up on a good range of problems on cave buttress, we headed to the Sheriff boulder.  We got stuck into an eliminate on the Sheriff which does not use the crack, but everything else.  The Deputy font 7b+, is a worthwhile problem in its own right.  A few shots, and I slapped my way over the top.  Elliot got very close, but the last move proved too awkward.  We then had a burn on Mango font 7c, but the final moves are still proving hard to climb into.
Pulling hard on the Deputy

By this time Gary had turned up and reacquainted himself with the Sheriff, and got very close to the Deputy.  As Ben and Alister arrived we moved back over to Cave buttress.  Here I climbed the Low Low Traverse font 7a+ to show those that had not done it, where it went.  I then did the other font 7a+ eliminate that goes straight up.  Everyone sent large, before 3 of us moved on to Angel Face.  Alister wanted to do Angel Face font 7b+, and did so quite quickly with helpful tips from Ben and I.  Ben tried the Eliminate and got very close, but the shoulder press was proving too burly today.

As I left, the 2 youths, were trying to use all the daylight hours as they headed back to work on something else.

The Video shows Alister's smooth ascent of Angel Face and my floundering finish on the Deputy.

Tuesday, 11 December 2012

Sometimes it's just a struggle

Morrell's Traverse

I met up with Dan and John at Almscliff today with high hopes after recent outings.  Things felt ok warming up on a range of easy routes and problems, but it was soon evident that it was not my day when I tried a little harder.  Some of the trickier problems I fancied as quick ticks, gave me a quick kicking.  Feeling hard done by, we went to some old favourites.  After falling off The Doplhin Belly Slap a couple of times, the toys were ejected from the pram.  Once I put my dumby back in, and climbed it properly, things started to look up.  After a first go send of Demon Wall Roof, I was happy again and started thinking bigger.  I made good progress on Demon Wall Roof Left Hand V9 font 7c, falling off the last hard move before I can stand up and finish.  This happened a few times, running out steam we moved on, but it should go next time.  We then went and made a quick ascent of Patta's Arete V6 font 7a.  I dropped the onsight when my heel slipped off, but got it next shot.
Dan working hard on Patta's Arete

We wrapped the day up with a few easy classics as the light started to fade.  a great day.

Thursday, 6 December 2012

Sendage and Bleeding Tips

After failed attempts last night to get good reports to go winter climbing either in Wales or the Lakes, Elliot and I opted for a morning session at Woodhouse.  Elliot was hoping to take advantage of my recent efforts there, and make a couple of quick ascents.

Elliot working hard on Angel Face
 Conditions were perfect, but like yesterday warming up was hard work.  Once we ready to let rip, we started at the Sheriff V8/9 6c font 7b/+.  To my surprise, I gave a smooth demo sending it first go.  Elliot then took full advantage of me beta and sent it second go.  I had a quick try on Mango V9 font 7c and got to the crux last 2 moves, but was not to sure that today was the best day with sore skin etc. from yesterday.  Instead we went to look at Angel Face V9 6c font 7b+.  Again, Elliot was hoping my beta would make this a quick tick today.  Valiant efforts were put in, but Failure came right at the end on a couple of goes.  When he returns fresh, it will go not problem.

Pressing hard to reach the slot

I had been told about Angel Face Roof Eliminate V9 6c font 7b+.  Which, as the name suggests is an eliminate that works in to Angel Face.  A hard start under the roof, into a powerful shoulder press allows the slot of Angel Face to be gained.  The best hold on the arete is eliminated to give a slightly harder finish, also making the sequence different.  A good problem in its own right.  I did Angel Face again, as well as the Interface boulder problem V7 font 7a+.

Enjoy something a little easier on Interface Boulder Start

As we both ran out of steam, the snow came.  Given a natural end to a great morning.

Wednesday, 5 December 2012

Crucifixion and The Worm


I was up early with Rose this morning, so got out early to make the most of the cold morning.  Was at the Bridies, warming up became the hardest part of the day, with the temp at -1 degrees.  A few problems later, Hot aches out of the way, it was time to try and send some unfinished business, Crucifixion V9/font 7c***.  With only my mats today, they had to be strategically placed.  This also would give me the impetus to man up fully and go for it.  Thankfully, this is exactly what happened.  I got very close on the first go, but nailed it second try today.  The big difference being where my heel was, and getting an intermediate hold to help bridge the gap.
A clue to how it gets it's name

Awesome moves

Spotting the holds

Super psyched, I turned my attention to the long version of The Worm V10.font 7c+ on the Tilted Pinnacle.  Having done most of the problems on here, especially the one that shares the same end.  I was hopeful I might get it done quickly.  The fact that conditions were good, and the style of the climbing in the hard section suits me, went in my favor.  Once I had worked out the crux moves to join the arete and link all that, I was held off for far long by the final moves.  A mixture of gritty holds and failing arms looked like it was going to ruin what had been a perfect morning.  After chilling in the sun, and taking a good long break, I thought I had a couple more good efforts in me.  I was very happy and surprised when I swung my right foot around on to the slab and rocked over to finish, YEAH!!!!!

It has been fantastic to see the effort I have been putting in to improve my bouldering paying off.  I am by no means a finished article, but if I pic my problems I have a chance.

I managed to get some good shots before my camera batteries gave up.

Sunday, 2 December 2012

Bridies at its Best

A stunning day at the Bridestones
I met up with Elliot quite early this morning with plans of new routes, but it was not to be as wet crux holds killed any attempt today.  Instead, we took advantage of a stunning day and went up to the Bridies.  After a good warm up, we decided to get straight on Crucifixion V9/font 7c before the sun warmed the rock to much.  Quick progress was made, getting through the crux, but dropping it on the last move.  I had a few goes, but could not find a hold to use to get to the jug.  Nevermind,  once I have the beta it will go next time.
Quality heel hook move making the slopers feel better than they look
We mooched about on some other problems, but some were suffering in the sun.  Nine V6/font 7a is a cool little problem hidden away, and in the shade.  These excellent conditions, saw a rapid send for both of us.  I need a few days off to let all the aches and pains subside, whilst growing back some skin after a productive weeks bouldering.  Not quite Trad or Winter climbing, but not too bad once you get into it.

Elliot in send mode!

A big move to finish off those holds