Monday, 23 April 2012

Technical Dancer

The crux of Technical Dancer font 7a+
Going bouldering for an hour has turned into a military operation. More time is spent sorting things out to be ready for poo and vomit Armageddon , than actually climbing.  That said, we managed the first family cragging mission to Heptonstall.

Crux done, just got to finish
Despite the rain, Red Wall is steep enough that it stays dry most of the time, especially at the bottom where Technical Dancer V7 6c* traverses.  It took me a couple of attempts to sort the crux moves out, but was quickly sent in 4 goes.  Pretty happy with that, we headed back to do some more feeding.

Rose less impressed with Heppy than Dad



Friday, 20 April 2012

New Arrival and No Sleep

Close to the Edge 

cheeky V3 6a
I have been home bound and happy about it for the last 2 weeks, due to the arrival of our baby daughter Rose Isla Hughes.  Em did an amazing job bringing her into our lives, and Rose has done an equally good job disrupting it.  It's impossible to be mad as she is just too cute!


Piton Crack


Today I have managed to fit a quick hour down at Woodhouse Scar, despite the rain being on and off most things were dry.  I did the usual classics, and even found a cheeky V5 I had not done before.  The stress of the last 2 weeks has definitely help will keep me climbing well with a little unforeseen weight lose.

video
My editing has been a bit shoddy and the problem names are out of sync, sorry!

Friday, 6 April 2012

Heptonstall's Hidden Boulder

I went in search of a single boulder problem on a boulder that is tucked away in the woods below Heptonstall. It was actually very easy to find and in a nice spot.  The problem, Scarface V6 climbs out of a steep roof, then up an arete using a poor sloppy hold.  It was quite dirty and needed some committed cleaning to make the slopper feel good.

Scarface

Topo for the boulder

After a quick dispatch of Scarface, I decided to add a sit start and an Extention at the same grade.  The Extention starts at the left arete and traverses low under the roof to join the normal start.  It adds some nice moves to make a fuller problem.  The left arete did not seem to have been climbed either, so I climbed this to give Pramface V4.

Below is a short video of the slappy first ascent of Pramface.  I had brushed and chalk the holds, but not tried it until this go.


video

A nice couple of hours somewhere new!

Thursday, 5 April 2012

Nice few hours in the sun

Sentinal Wall HVS 5b*

We are still waiting for baby to arrive and I have had a stinking head cold for the best part of a week.  Put this together with the DIY and I was very keen to get out and take advantage of the good weather today.  Again a quick trip to Eppy so I'm close to home, and to keep ticking off the last few easy routes.

The right hand outcrop was in the shade still, and conditions very good.  I soloed around 15 routes here, a couple that I had not climbed before.  The best of these was Dogged Arete E1 5b**..  This means that I only have a couple of routes in the main quarry now to tick the crag.  I also soloed Afro With a Chin Strap HVS 5c** and Miss Rags Tantric Mistress of Mazland E4 6b which I have not climbed for around 10 years.  There is a section of wall here that has no route on it in the guide and does not look traveled, so I onsight soloed that at HVS 5b.  Some nice climbing, but I would be amazed if it had not been already done.

I went to the main quarry and soloed Curving Crack and Main Line both VS 4c**, but it was quite warm.  I called it a day, but it was nice to be out.