Friday, 29 October 2010

SPA Assessment

Thursday and Friday were spent in the Peak working on an SPA Ass. with Dan McKinley. There were 8 candidates in total, and a mixed forecast. The first day was spent at Froggatt covering the various aspects of personal climbing. Conditions wre great and everyone cruised their routes and delt with any problems that popped up.

Yesterday was all about group work. We started at Burbage North and went through warmng up and a bit of weaselling, before moving on to the ropes. In the afternoon we moved to Lawrancefield. here the candidates had to work with a group of young people from Leeds and run a good, progressive session. Again the weather turned out good, which helped evryone enjoy the 2 days.

Tuesday, 26 October 2010


Yesterday I made my first visit to Brimham. Luckily this was with Dan, John and Elliott, so we had folks that knew their way around. We did some excellent boulder problems to warm up, before getting on some routes. Dan led The Black Chipper E2 5b***, which is quite out there at the grade. I then Soloed Rotifer E3 6a** onsight. I then led Pathos E3 6a**, which is a bit soft for 6a, but great climbing. We had come for Left Wall E5 6a***, which Dan had been working and I was hoping to flash. Dan made short work of his first E5 styling to the top. I then went and thought the climbing was amazing. It is on the easy side of the grade, well protected, so a good one to do as your first.

To rap up my day I made a quick onsight of Acme Wall E3 6a***. Only 1 hard move but in a good position.
Acme Wall:

Friday, 22 October 2010

Cold Climbs

I met up with Mhairi and Neil at Malham yesterday. The cold wind does not help me perform to my best, but I had a good day never the less. I came pretty close to ticking Wasted Youth 7b on my second go, only needing to do 1 more move to reach the jugs on the tufas. We just chilled out after that, doing a few laps of Consenting Adults 7a before we bailed.

Today I went to the wall with John and Ali. We had a great session leaving us all pretty battered. Hopefully after a weekend rest the weather might improve for next week.

Tuesday, 19 October 2010

Wet Wilton

Today was the last day of elliott and Paul's trad course, unfortunately the weather was horrible. We spent a few hours in the morning indoors going over some of the rigging from the previous days, before going back outside. Despite the weather, we managed a little cllimbing and went through some more rigging practise before throwing in the towel. The lads said they had a lot to take away from the last few days and enjoyed themselves despite the weather.

Monday, 18 October 2010

Intro to Trad Leading

The last 2 days have been spent working with Elliott and Paul in the Wilton quarries. Yesterday was spent looking at placing runners, builing belays and leading on a toprope. Today the guys made the leap to leading with me alongside. Between them, they managed a range of VDiffs. At the end of the day we rigged an abseil to show how we could retrieve some stuck gear, and also went over rigging a bottom ropes. It is the final day tomorrow, so more leading and a few new bits thrown in.

Tuesday, 12 October 2010

Back to Craggin'

After working, moving house and being a bit ill I have not been able to get out climbing much in the last few weeks. Elliott came over for a couple of days to take advantage of the good weather, so on Sunday we went to Heptonstall. It was Elliott's first visit, so we ticked off a few classics in the main quarry before climbing a few on the right hand outcrop. 14 routes down and a little tired, we headed home. I was not firing on all cilinders and definately feeling weaker than I have been all year.

Yesterday we went to Armscliff. Again this is a first for Elliott, and he took full advantage of this ticking the 4 3 star HVS's and Z climb eliminate. My day was less productive. The cold wind was a bit too much for me, and after cruising the crux start of Wall of Horrors I had to stop when I could no longer feel my hands, Too Cold! Gutted about blowing the routes I decided to boulder instead. The highlight being a quick send of Pebble Wall with John's better beta.

The message of the last couple of days was I need to go bouldering a get stronger.

Friday, 1 October 2010

Striding Edge

Yesterday was the best weather day of the week, so we made the drive to Helvellyn. With only one heavy shower early in the day, it proved to be a good choice. The ridge offered the right level of challenge for the group and there were some excellent veiws to boot. After lunch on the top, we descended Swirl Edge. A few members of the group followed me over the next little peak on the horseshoe before we met the others on the way down. A great end to the week.