Tuesday, 22 September 2015

Catch Up and Houdini Direct

Is has been pretty busy since I last posted.  The usual route setting and NGB work continues, as well as the Bolton School days starting again.

Bolton School have had a few good days out.  A good trip up to Eskdale Gorge in pretty high levels made a great day for the lads.  We have had a few days out sport climbing too, in preparation for our trip to Spain in October.  The lads have started well, ticking a range of routes at different parts of Giggleswick South from 5+-6b.  With a few weeks left. they are all psyched to get the best out of there trip and do a bit of training.

Bolton lads leading well

Over the last 2 years or so I have been struggling with Houdini Direct font 7c+ at Woodhouse.  I have been close so many times, just never being able to find that finish line.  When I went today, I was not expecting much after a session in the wall yesterday.  I warmed up at home on my finger board so I could get straight on it and just work some links.  The first couple of goes felt good, solid sections climbed.  Then I decided to see how I faired, and started to panic a bit as I held the lip and got my heel on. I managed to finish the next crux section up the arĂȘte, Psyched!!!!!!  Maybe it was the lack of expectation that help today, or simply one of those lucky days.  Either way, it's definitely not one than I'll be running laps on like I do on the Clingen Face.

Let hope this is the start of some good climbing after a pretty rubbish year really.

Houdini Direct from Adam Hughes on Vimeo.

Wednesday, 5 August 2015

Busy Busy

The theme of the year seems to be continuing.  Busy with everything and not really anytime to climb for myself.

The last few weeks have been taken over with SPA Assessments and Trainings in the Peak. A CWA Aessessment and route setting.  Throw in there childcare and moving house and you have a severe take up of time.  That said, I have managed to grab a bit of time locally bouldering to tick over, as well as the odd short session in the wall around work.

Fingers crossed, It will be a better August.

Tuesday, 14 July 2015

Bit of Bouldering

I had a chance on Sunday to grab a couple of hours bouldering at Woodhouse.  Although local,it was nice to do some climbing for myself, as time has been very limited lately.

I surprised myself, with quick repeats of the majority of 7b+'s at the crag.  The steep stuff was definitely a weaker area, but it will hopefully come back quick once work and family commitments ease.

Sunday, 12 July 2015

ML Assessment

This week I was back in the Lake for an ML Assessment.   I was doing the expedition section, which is 3 days with a night navigation. We had a couple of dig days out,  which tested the candidates.  A mixed day and night for one cost them the award, but I'm sure that they will come back strong on their re assessment.  They weather was quite mixed and helped add to the assessment.  Overall, it was a good few days.

Sunday, 5 July 2015

George Watson's Climbing Week

This week I have been in the Lakes with George Watson's College for their summer climbing trip.  I met them on Monday in Eskdale where we were staying and got stuck straight in.  We went climbing and bouldering in the Diamond Area of the Fisherground.  This worked really well after their long drive.

Tuesday meant we didn't have to drive,as we walked to Hare Crag.  This Granite Crag offered a great range of routes from VD to E3 for the kids to get stuck into.  The style of climbing was a bit different from what they have been used to, but they adapted well.

We headed to the coast on Wednesday to escape the heat.  St Bee's proved to be a good choice.  Again the group climbed many routes to 6a, as well as ticking some nice boulder problems.
Enjoying a nice day by the coast 

St. Bee's action 

On Thursday we went over to the Duddon Valley and climbed at Wallow Barrow.   Here we did a mixture of single and multi pitch routes up to VS 4c.  A great venue with the whole crag to ourselves.

As they had to head off early, we went back to the Diamond Area and ticked off the last of the amenable problems they had left.  It was a great way to finish the trip and see how much their footwork had improved during the week.

Thursday, 25 June 2015

Work, Work

It's been a busy period lately, with a CWA Training last weekend, Route Setting and this week a multi pitch climbing trip with Bolton School in Wales.

Anosh on sighting his first 6a

The Bolton Trip went really well, with the weather playing ball allowing us to get lots of climbing done.  As we travelled down on Monday, we decided to stop at Castle Inn Quarry and do some sports climbing.  All the lads did really well leading a load of routes up to 6a.  I took advantage when the chilled out and had lunch to back a few routes.  All the 6c's on the main face are top quality here, so I did these again.
Andy cruising

Tuesday was spent in the Pass in the baking sun.  We all climbed a few routes on Wastad, some of which challenged the lads.  I did Ribstone Crack VS 4c/5s, Skylon HS and Shadow Wall VS 4c with my guys.  Ribstone Crack proving to be the real challenge.  After tea at Pete's Eats, we went up to BUS Stop Quarry and did a few of the sports routes there.  It was a full day of climbing.
Luke leading in Bus Stop

Yesterday we went up to Little Tryfan.  It was a great day and the lads learnt to lead.  They managed to do 2 routes before it started to spit mid afternoon.  Steve and Luke banged out loads of routes to give Luke as much mileage as possible.  I think the lads managed around 25 pitches of climbing over the 3 days, a fine effort.

Andy on his first trad lead

Wednesday, 10 June 2015

Catch Up

It's been a bit busy of late, but I have managed to do a little in between work etc.  I had a quick hit at the Party Block/Jobseekers Buttress last Thursday, climbing a range of cool problems.  This newly revamped boulder has an easy approach and a mix of quality blocs in the V5toV11 range.  I ticked a few of them from V3 to V8, but was getting sore and tired by the time I left.

Last weekend was the 8a Agency and Beyond Hope Team meet up at the Lad Stones.  Despite the long slog in high winds and chilly weather, folks were in good spirits and getting stuck in.  Some good tick were had for everyone, and I was particularly happy to climb a few Problems from 7a to 7b.  I am still far from back to my best, but feel like most things have healed and are on the way up.

Today I have been in the Lakes doing a site visit to Eskdale gorge.   Thankfully the better weather made it a slightly warmer experience than it could have been.