Thursday, 9 October 2014

Rainy Days



I had a couple of hour at Woodhouse this morning to continue my attempts to get fit and stronger again.  After all the rain, it was the Clingen Face that never disappoints.  The arĂȘte was soaked through, but the slot not too bad.  So, I plugged it up to dry and warmed up on a number of the eliminates.  Whilst lying around in between problems, I noticed a sequence I had never seen before.  Truly eliminate, but offered good moves.  As the slot was still wet I did a shortened version to give a nice little font 7a.  Once the slot was useable, I managed to link the whole thing.  Climbing Angelface Reverse into the new finish to give Rainy Days 7b+.  I then did the 7b edge eliminate and a few other things.  My attempt to video Rainy Days failed on the last move as I'd used up my fingers on the problem after the F.A. Error.  Did video the short version though whilst waiting for slot to dry.

Rainy Days from Adam Hughes on Vimeo.

Monday, 6 October 2014

Busy Weekend

On Saturday I was at The Leeds wall running a CWA Assessment for McKinley Mountaineering.  The 2 candidates did a great job, and both passed comfortably.

The worlds smallest spotter
After a pleasant 50 miler on the bike on Sunday morning, I had a quick hit at Woodhouse in the afternoon.  This is one of a handful of sessions I've had in the last few months, so repeating some of the hander problems I know well is really helping me get so  strength back.  After warming up and then doing the 7b+'s on the Angel Face.  I was really happy to redo Interfacing Angel 7c, which I put up last year.  It's strange for me to find some strengths coming back quickly, but my fingers struggling to come back.  Hopefully they won't take too long

The crux
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Wednesday, 1 October 2014

SPA Assessment and Scary Monsters

Over the weekend I was running a SPA Assessment in the Peak for McKinley Mountaineering.  The candidates did a great job a Burbage North for the personal climbing section, before we moved to the Foundry.  A long session at the wall set them up nicely for the group section of the award at Lawrancefield and Millstone.  This went well for all but one, but everyone worked hard throughout the day.

Yesterday I managed to sneak a quick route at Trowbarrow.  This was the first since June, so I was pretty happy with my flash of Scary Monsters E5 6a*.  Fingers crossed it's not so long before the next one.

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

SPA Training and a bit of route setting

Last Saturday I ran the first day of an SPA Training in the Peak.  A busy, full course, with a good variety of experience between the candidates made for some good discussions.  We spent the first part of the day at Stanage looking at all aspects of personal climbing, before heading to The Foundry to look at the climbing wall part of the award.  A good day seemed to be had by all.

My back seems to be on the mend, so I ventured out for a boulder on Tuesday.  I picked my way through some trusty problems at Woodhouse and managed a handful of things up to 7b+, which was a real surprise.  Hopefully strength and fitness will return quickly.

Today, a bit sore from bouldering.  I have been route setting all day and testing some circuits.  It's fair to say a poor year climbing and an injury that has kept me out for a month, is painful to come back from in more ways than one.

Monday, 15 September 2014

A Mish Mash of Things

It has been a strange few weeks which have been a struggle, due to a mountain bike crash at high speeds that involved a drystone wall.  I'd like to think of it as a draw, but jury is still out.

Despite this I have managed to do some window cleaning and a lead climbing session with Bolton School students in preparation for our Spanish climbing trip in October.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed I will be able to climb properly by then.

Saturday, 23 August 2014

Climbing Coaching in North Wales

The last 2 day have been spent with Colm and Dave in North Wales, refreshing old and introducing new skills.  Due to them both having some injuries, the grade of the routes was not important, but time spent on rock was.

Colm getting into it on Little Tryfan

Thursday was spent on Little Tryfan, where they lead a good number a pitches, did multi pitch abseils and looked at stance management.  It was a day well spent, with the guys saying it was the perfect day, which was much needed.

Elephant Slab providing tricky gear and food for thought

Dave enjoying the atmosphere on Rap

Yesterday we made the decision to head over to Anglesey to avoid the rain.  I turned out to be a great decision, as we drove through rain to dry roads and sunshine.  We went on to Holyhead Mountain to continue the theme from the previous day, and add a couple of simple problem solving techniques in there.  We rounded off the day with a quick ascent of Rap VS 4c*** on Castle Helen.  Sadly, Colm was a bit too sore for this.  Hopefully they get the weather to put all they've learnt into practise over the next couple of day before heading home to Ireland.

Dave living the dream

Sunday, 17 August 2014

Busy Week Setting and CWA Training

This week has bee pretty busy.  The lead area at ROKT has been given a new look with friction paint, so I've been in re setting the 21m beast.  There are now a good range of routes from F4-7a+ to go at, with more to come.  There will be a couple of good trying routes soon to compliment the easier range that are already there.

Over the weekend I have been running a CWA Training for 5 candidates.  The mixture of venues (ROKT and Leeds Wall) really adds to the course, as well as the mix of experience from the candidates.  Everyone was very complimentary of the course and seemed to take a lot away from it.

I've managed to squeeze in a few sessions for myself indoors, so will hopefully get out and take advantage of these soon.