Catch Up

The last week or so has been a bit hectic, but surprisingly productive.  A lack of internet has meant blogging has not been easy, so here's a catch up.  After putting in a day on Subculture 8a**, I returned to try and redpoint it.  Unfortunately, I was a little under the weather, and it all felt like a little hard work.  It was not a wasted day though, and I managed to lead the route in 2 sections, improving my sequence a little.

I squeezed in an hour at Woodhouse Scar and added a sit start to an existing problem to give a good little font 7a+.  Things are on the up and I managed to redo a few of the 7b+’s I have done before.

A massive mission moving house last weekend with a little too much heavy lifting left me feeling a little tired on Monday when I returned to Kilnsey.  I felt pretty good, but dropped the route 3 times on the last hard move, Gutted!  Felling sorry for myself I went home empty handed, but psyched knowing it should go next go.

Tuesday took me over to Wigan for some work in the morning.  I had a couple of hours before needing to be home, so stopped at Wilton on the way back.  I quickly brushed Perimeter Walk E7 6b* and Beyond the Perimeter E5 6a**, which were quite dirty.  After a spot of lunch, I flashed both routes.  Awesome solos, and a good consolation for the previous day.

Today I returned to Kilnsey for a quick early hit to try and finish off.  I had Rose with me, so the usual warm up was out.  Instead i opted to bolt to bolt and take advantage of the easier upper section to warm up.  This seemed to work ok, and I sent the route next go, PSYCHED!!!!!

It has been a pretty satisfying start to the season so far.  Hopefully it can keep improving!

First Day Clipping Bolts and MT Provider Workshop

Yesterday I had my first day sports climbing of the season.  Kilnsey is never an easy venue for me, especially for the first day out.  It did however, workout much better than I expected.  Despite a lack of routes since October, the recent flurry and bouldering seems to have had a positive impact on my ability to pull.  I had no plans to start a project, wanting to stick by my 2 days on a route Max. But as a few things are wet, and I have done the majority of the mid 7's,  I ended up trying Subculture 8a***.

Each year I have avoided the draw of trying to climb 8a, not wanting to lose lots of days on one route.  Getting on this was initially something to struggle on for a day and see how far away I was.  After cleaning it up, all the moves went quicker than expected.  I was even more surprised when I linked the route in two overlapping sections.  For a first session this is very unexpected.  I am really hoping that I can return next week and get the sent.

Today I was at the White Hall Centre for a Mountain Training Provider Workshop.  It was an interesting day with much discussion around the different awards.  The best part of the day for me was the afternoon workshop about working with people with disabilities.  This is very relevant for me at the moment, with the work I'm doing at one centre I TA for.

Classics with the Numbers

Yesterday Pete and I went West to check out Egerton Quarry.  I was hoping to tick off the last classic E5 arete and one other harder route.  Unfortunately, the winter has not been kind to the quarry.  The lack of traffic has also meant it is all pretty manky.  Pete led the classic Cherry Bomb VS 4c***, before we bailed and went to Wilton 1.

Pete on Cherry Bomb

We had lost a bit of time, so rather than waste any more warming up and trying something hard.  I opted to get on and send some classics.  The quarry was the driest I've ever seen it, so White Slabs Blunt E3 6a*** was first to go.  Tricky moves passed the second peg, then led to steady climbing to the mantel near the top. Quite bold in places, but never too hard.  A route well worth the claim of the best at Wilton.  Next up I led Super Crack E3 5c***.  A little dirty, but still an outstanding route.  The top has not been stabilised yet after the rockfall, so care needs to be taken.

A small day in terms of the number of routes, but all good ones as Wilton continues to deliver.

Work and Second Ascents

It has been a good couple of day.  Yesterday I ran a CWA Assessment, based at Leeds Wall which went well for some, with a couple of folks needing to return to redo a few bits.

Today I have been down to Manchester to see the folks at Challenge 4 Change to sign of procedure etc. which all went swimmingly.  It made sense to visit somewhere to climb on the way home, so I opted for Warland Quarry.  This is a strange choice at hear say, but for us daddy daycare types it has a couple of new additions.  All I can say is thank god for Nik Jennings!  He is as overly keen as me to make the most of his time off from childcare and work, to climb in the local holes.  I had noticed he had been an added two new slab routes over the weekend, so thought I would check these out and save his new one in Summit Quarry for the flash when I have a belayer.

On arriving at the quarry I was very happy and surprised to see Nik there.  The landing on the routes where worse than I thought they would be, even with mats.  So I decided to have a quick toprope to check out the easier of the 2.  Twenty20 E6 6b is never that hard, but has a terrible landing that would send you flying into some bounders further back.  Even though I could belay myself on a gri gri and climb the route, not falling off on any try.  I took advantage of Nik and pinched a belay.  One of the old aid bolts was possible to clip after the hardest climbing was done.  It was beyond shit, but made me feel better.  I hindsight it was easier to climb without clipping the bolt, but nevermind.

Next up I got stuck into Face of Grace E7 6c.  This is an excellent steep slab climb, with hard moves to an un nerving height.  Nik's beta made working out a sequence quicker, but being a little taller meant I could do it a slightly different way.  Nik had thought about upping the tech grade before I did it, but thinks 6c is a fair grade for most.  I would say that it will be fierce for the short though.  After a belaying myself a few time, I soloed the route above a couple of pads, which does improve the landing slightly, but not the run off.  As the bolts are so poor, Nik is going to remove them asap.

There are a couple of other new things to do there, but I would imagine it would only interest the most dedicated locals.

Short vid from Nik

Daddy Daycare FA

Today I final put to bed the project I had at the Roost.  I first cleaned the line in October last year and climbed it on a shunt, but needed 1 hold at the end of the crux to dry out.  Despite returning many times, the hold was constantly wet.  Even so I climbed the line over and over to get it as clean as possible for when the hold dried.  During this time I also checked out the gear.  The climbing was bold to a good hold in the break, but that hold was also where the only cam would hold.  I didn't want to step into the neighbouring route and finish as for that. So it meant either placing gear off small holds and the next move being harder, or cracking on.  Bearing this in mind, and struggling to find a belayer to take a chance and walk up there, I opted to solo the route above pads.

The walk back up there today was rewarded with dry holds for the first time in 6 months.  Having been waiting for 6 months to do the route, I was pretty happy about that.  After 30 mins of re cleaning, and a further hour climbing the route again to get the moves wired, it was game on.

Climbing the lower prow

The lower prow went quickly, a quick shakeout and chalk up took my mind off the climbing ahead.  I made the first of the hard moves, then the next.  Now committed, I kept pulling not thinking about failing, but simply about each move.  The move to the break felt very committing, but good.  A moment to compose, then the last big move to a sloper, really locking hard to reach.  Sticking it, and relief I would surely finish now.  A couple more moves to the top, and  rocking over to finish what seems like the longest wait for a route ever.  So happy!!!!!  Daddy Daycare seems an appropriate name at the moment, so I'll go with that.  I had recorded the ascent, but as I was using my technical genius to pull off some stills, I managed to delete it. At least Emma was highly amused at my muppetry.

Fully engrossed in the long crux section

Daddy Daycare E7 6b* 12m (Adam Hughes 18/4/13)

Climb the undercut prow left of the crack (of the Virus).  From the break, climb the slightly overhanging wall on small holds and slopey pockets until a committing move leads to a better hold in the break to the right.  Avoiding the temptation to traverse into the Virus, make a big move direct to slopers, then the top. Excitting!!!

Yellow: Daddy Daycare  Blue: The Virus

Hard Line

Today Tony came across from Hull to get some mileage in.  So I met him at Heptonstall for some classics, and hopefully something I had not done before.  Tony started us of leading Curving Crack VS 4c**, then Sanility HVS 5b***.  He had hoped to lead Thin Red Line E2 5b***, but was not feeling it.  I abseiled and brushed Hard Line E5 6b**.  It was lucky I did, as it was pretty dirty and needed a bit of work in places.  I then flashed the route, which was an awesome feeling at this point in the season when I don't feel fit yet.  Tony then led Pulpit Route HVS 5a**, which was entertaining in the wind.

We then moved over to the right hand outcrop where Tony dispatched A Dog With Two Tails HVS 5a** and then the Mitre Severe to finish off.

Apologies for the lack of pics, but forgot cameras and phone today.

Weekend Work and Play

This weekend I have been in the Peak visiting friends, then working on Sunday.  On Saturday I took advantage of children's nap times to get a few problems in.  In the morning I went to Burbage North.  It was far too warm to try what I wanted, so made a quick send of Breakfast 7a***, a cool arete.  Then went back to head to the park.  In the afternoon, I went to Higgar Tor and got on The Flying Arete 7a+.  After hitting the top a million times, I went to try something different.  I went and soloed the File VS 4c***, and did Witness the Gritness 7a** after a couple of shots, returning back to the Flying Arete for more frustration.  After hitting the top another million times, I finally stuck it on the Millionth and first time.  Just in time before it started raining.

Yesterday I was running the second day of an SPA Assessment.  We visited Lawrencefield and Millstone, pleasantly surprised by the weather.  Only a few showers through the day meant it was a reasonably nice day.  I successful for day for most, so many happy faces on their way home.