Wednesday, 19 December 2012

Weeping Angel

My obsession with Woodhouse has been due to the fact that my time has been more limited lately, with more   time taken up with Rose etc. so quick hour hits are what I have.  The 5 min drive and excellent problems, are a bonus.  The weather has been pretty poor of late, and the remaining harder problems by the Sheriff have been wet.  Thankfully, the Clingen Face is pretty much perma dry.  There were a couple of eliminates in the guide I had not done, so finishing them off made sense.  I also had a link up in mind that would combine all the hard sections of the 3 hardest problems on the face.

I went there yesterday hoping to do the link, but the starting holds suffer with seepage.  Instead, I worked the end out, which is 1 of the remaining eliminates I had not done.  A fierce, fingery V8 6c with the crux at the end.  It took an hour or so to warm my finger's up enough and do the problem.  I found the last hard move hard, and can only stick it 1 in 5 goes.
Catching the crux dyno on Eliminate 6
 Today Elliot met me there, and with dry holds it was on.  After warming up, we did the remaining eliminate I was missing a cheeky V6 6c* dyno in the middle of the face.  Elliot made a fine solo flash of Clingen E2 5c***, which climbs all the way through the roof above the problems.  I got stuck into the link, and it did not take long to put together having done it all on different recently.  After failing to hold the last hard move after 3 shots, my finger tip only had one more good go in it.  Thankfully, I managed to stick it, JUST!! And Weeping Angel font 7c* is born.
Holding the crux at the end of Weeping Angel

Description:  Weeping Angel 7c*  It starts by climbing Angel face roof eliminate to the slot from here reverse Angel face to it's start, then climb the V8 eliminate. Sustained, with the hardest move right at the end.

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