Thursday, 22 November 2012

Almscliff Classics

I met Elliot just after 9 this morning at Almscliff, hoping to get a good session in before the weather hit.  We warmed up soloing around the lower man routes up to HVS 6a and some easy problems, before heading up top.  The wind was not too bad and the friction was pretty good.  After climbing the Crucifix and some of it's variations, Elliot had a go at his nemesis problem. Pebble Wall V5/font 6c.  I was very kind to go first and show how easy it is, but yet again, it holding Elliot at bay.  John and Stu turned, and John rubbed salt in the wounds when he casually slipped his shoes on and sent it.

Nicely around Demon Wall Roof
Demon Wall Roof V7/font 7a+ is an Almscliff super classic, which is apparently easy when you know how.  I had never had a serious go on this, thinking it was not my thing, but Elliot had the knowledge having sent it on Sunday.  Armed with Elliot's beta and his demo, It went down in 5 goes, sweet!!  We had a few good shots on Pebble Wall Variation V8, but both failed on the last move.  With the friction feeling good, we had a crack at Dreamland V7/font 7a+.  This is an extremely frustrating problem, but both Elliot and I hit the sloper, but failed to hold it.  Rather spend all day on one problem, we moved on.

Crimping hard on Si's Arete
Elliot made a quality flash of Syrett's Roof V5/font 6c+, I and got stuck into Si's Arete V7/font 7a+.  John explained the sequence, and it went pretty quickly for Stu and I.  After a few other things.  Elliot and I had a go on The Bulge V7/8 font 7a+/b, which climbs the bulge left of Wall of Horrors start direct to the jug.  I was getting tired and sacked it off thinking there were still a few hard moves to work out.  Elliot stuck with it, and worked out one more move to finish.  Spared on, shoes back on I latched the jug first go.  A great way to finish a productive session.

Elliot in send mode
The Bulge
Latching the jug!!!

No comments: