This morning has been glorious and conditions grit outstanding. I was on Daddy daycare duties from lunchtime on, so got out early to Caley to take advantage of the weather. After the usual laps of Otley Wall and Fork Lightening Crack to warm up, I dropped a rope down Marrow Bone Jelly E7 6b***. Once graded 7a, the grade has slowly come down to settle at 6b, which seemed bang on.
committing onto the slab
After abing and brushing the holds and getting an idea of what to do, I had a go belaying myself on a grigri as I went. I prefer this method to a shunt, as I always think if I can hang around to belay, then the climbing is not as taxing as if I were slapping my way up not having to think about it. The climbing is my sort of thing, technical, balancy, but not physical. I was pretty happy to get it 1st go. After a few move topropes I soloed the route, super happy to have ticked a classic. The crux at the top was not the hard part for me, I found the moves just below getting to the hands off rest the trickiest section, and a little reachy. That said, there was a fair bit of a mental crux at those top moves.
With the job done it was back home to do my parenting duties.