Suicide Wall

Above & below: Jonny on Suicide Wall

Today was the first of mine and Jonny's trip down to Wales and we headed into Idwall. We went for Suicide Wall Route 1 first, which Jonny led cooly. I then did Capital Punishment. This has been down graded in the new guides to E3 5c, I would say that it is benchmark E4 5c. Sustained and serious climbing with possible ground falls. This said, both routes were outstanding.

Above: Me on Capital Punishment

Dutch Army on the Ben

Today the Dutch massive went on mass to conquer Ben Nevis. It was a stunning day, with a pleasent breeze which made the walking a bit easier. It was a good way to finish their first week before their exercise neext week.

The Unit on the summit

Polldubh

Above: Black Friday

I went to Glen Nevis today with Andy to do a few routes whilst the Dutch had a rest day. We went up to Styx Buttress and did the classic Resurection and a few other warm up routes. Then I descided to try Black Friday. Descibed as a well protected struggle, it was not lying. It was much harder and technical than I thought it looked. After a couple of falls I managed to top out, taking in some very physical and creative climbing on the way. To finish the day we walked over to Calvary Crack Buttess to climb the super classic storm, a great way to finish the day.

Above & Below: Andy on Storm

Dutch Army

For the last 2 days I have been working for Andy Wardle (Focus Mountaineering) with the Dutch Army. They are over to do some team building as well as training in an environment they are not used to.

Day 1 took us out of Kinlochleven and up to Blackwater. We then walked over the tops and back into Kinlochleven.

Day 2 took us into Glen Coe and up the Lost Vally. We crossed from there into Corie Nan Lochain before heading back down to the pick up.

We looked at a number of things over the 2 days to build on their skills.

Dunkeld

I met up With Jonny, Geek, Grey, Mhairi and Patryk a Upper cave today. Suffering with hayfever, my psyche was a little low, but was rekindled by Jonny and Geek. After a quick toprope, Jonnie tied on and dispatched Natural High to claim his first E7. Geek, now armed with all the beta, put in a superb display to flash the route for his first E7.

Jonny on Natural High

I then tied on and onsighted post Mortem. This follows Corpse to the cave, then takes the very steep wall above to create a direct finish. Very good climbing, but not as hard as the tech grade suggests.

Me on Post Mortem

CWA Training

After a few days training at the EICA Ratho this week I had to do some work.

Today I was running the second day of a Climbing Wall Award Training course. After refreshing some of the things covered on the first day, we moved onto the group management and supervion side of the award. After a short lunch break we then covered all aspects of the Abseil module as well.

All 4 candidates went away with a lot to work on, and new ideas to try out,

Too Hot for Grit

Yesterday I met up with James and Ieuan and went to Widdop hoping to find some shade. Despite finding a bit of shade, the temperature was a little too high to strap one on. However, I thought I would give a steep, sloppy arete climb a go. After much chalking up and brushing a I went, I had to reverse down and admit defeat to the heat. We salvaged the day with a little bouldering, but grit season is over.

Above: Sweaty sloppers on Stage Fright

Today I was on my own again, so I went to Heptonstall to do a few laps on Red wall. After 8 routes and the sun hitting the wall I bailed. A production morning.