Coire an Lochain

Matt and Keith made another trip into Lochain today and climbed Hookers Corner VI,6/7  and Overseer Direct V,6.  When I spoke to Matt he said that there was a lot of rime build up and the cracks are very icy.  All routes need a careful and measured approach in these conditions.

Tim and Mark made the walk to Carn Etchachan and climbed the classic Equinox VI,6.  James Thacker climbed the Hoarmaster V,6 and there were teams on Central Crack Route IV,5 and Third Man IV/V,6.

Winter is Here, Just!

After a big thaw yesterday, overnight snow and a drop in temperature made climbing possible in the Northern Corries today.

In Coire an Lochain Matt and Keith climbed Fallout Corner VI,7, whilst Tim and Mark climbed Third Man V,6 and Third Man V,6.  James Thacker was in Sneachda climbing Stirling Bomber V,7.  He commented on his blog that there were teams on the Genie V,7 and Fingers Ridge IV,4.  Care should be taken as the cracks where verglassed in places.


Follow James at www.jamesthacker-mountaineering.co.uk

Burbage West

I met up with Tony and Tina at Burbage today for a spot of bouldering.  We started off at the Bridge area to warm up on a range of easy problems to V4.  The wind was not too strong, but it was pretty chilly.  Next up, we went over to West Burbage.  Neither of us had been here before and there were some good looking problems to go at.

setting up for the crux on Scooter

Enjoying the jug at the top

Tony showing his flexibility on the crux of Scooter

First up was a nice little arete called Scooter V4, which had a brilliant foot to hand rockover to reach the top.  Go West V3 was then flashed by me and should also have been by Tony.  He manned up next go and cruised it.  Whilst Tony recovered from his burst of man power, I tried The Nose V6.  I slipped off the crux first go, but thankfully sent it on the second.  Tony then flashed Crow Man V2 and also the harder left hand version V3.  I got stuck into Jason's Mono Problem V6/7 (depends on the guidebook).  It took me a few goes to stick the finish hold which seemed to be the crux of the problem.  I was really keen to try West Side Story V8/9, which is a super technical wall climb.  The crux is setting your feet to pop to the break, but the all the climbing leading up to this is british 6b, so hard.  I got into the crux a couple of times, but only spending 10-15 minutes on the problem was not enough.  Next visit will be to do this problem and take advantage of this quick session.

Getting involved with West Side Story

About to try and set up for the crux move

Getting tired, we moved back to the Bridge area.  Here Tony cruised a V2 arete and I did the V5 version.  I also managed Mermaid V6, which although only short, packed a punch.  To finish everything off we went and climbed Banana Finger V2/3.  Neither of us had done this for about 10 years, so it was nice to get on it again.

Tony on Banana Finger

A big thanks to Tina for the pics.

Recovering from Man Flu

I have been suffering with Man Flu since Tuesday, so a light boulder at Widdop with Elliot and Beth seemed like just the thing to kick the body into action.

Beth sending a classic little arete

We did a range of problems up to V5, but there was a big of a damp feel to some of them.  Hopefully the body will be back to full working order by midweek.

New Edelrid Kit for 2012

Over the last few years Edelrid have really branched out with the kit they produce.  Along with the high quality ropes, their harnesses, rock shoes, helmets and hardware have won industry awards.  The latest development have been in the massive re design of the ice axes and the all new rucksacks.

Top: Edelrid Riot                     Below: Edelrid Rage

 The Riot is a well designed and balanced tool.  It has been designed with leashless climbing in mind, using an ergonomically formed grip and removable hand rest that also offers good protection to the knuckles.  It weighs 610g and you can also add the small weight seen on the Rage to the head to improve performance on ice.

The Rage is another well made tool for those steep ice and hard modern mix routes.  The pick angle can be changed to suit your needs, the aggressive shaft give excellent clearance and the ergonomic handle makes them easy to wield.  These to have the removable weight option to improve performance on steep ice.

These are 2 excellent addition to the ice axe market and will be availbale to buy from Feb 2012.

Left: Helix 25                   Right: Mirage 35

The Helix is the Ultra light rucksack for day trips or fast and light ascents.  It has a removable plate, waist belt and lid to make it even lighter and smaller.

The Mirage comes in either 25 or 35 litres and is made from a highly durable ballistic nylon.  It also has a removable back plate, waist band and lid.  The side compression system has been designed to make attaching skis etc. simple.  The 35 litre model has an extra 10 litre of capacity if needed which the floating hood copes with easily.

For more info on Edelrid products click on the Edelrid logo in the side bar.

An Easy Day

Today I had an easy day at Heptonstall with Elliot and Beth.  The body was in need of a rest, so I spent the day following Elliot up some classics.  We started on Main Line VS 4c**, which is a great little slabby/wall climb that looks pretty blank from below, but provides lots of good edges.  Elliot decided to get straight on a Thin Red Line E2 5b***.  He had been shut down on this on his only other visit to the quarry, but is a much improved climber these days.  This was demonstrated as he cruised the route.  I nipped up Fairy Steps HS 4b*** next to keep the routes flowing.  Elliot then led Brown Sugar E2 5c** which is a little trickier then TRL with a good crux going through the roof on a jam.  Again Elliot dispatched the route in good style.  We wrapped the day up with Bull's Crack HVS 5a***.  This is awesome for the grade and only really gets the 3 stars if you climb the chimney instead of finishing at the ledge, which is the trend.  Both Elliot and Beth enjoyed the full 3 star experience.

Mytholm Steeps and West Vale

Elliot entering the crux section

Elliot and I continued the bouldering theme today by going to Mytholm Steeps.  As the name suggests, the climbing here is on the steep side.  Defo not my style!  We milled around a bit on a few moves here and there to warm up, before getting stuck into the Wickerman V5/6 (the grade is variable depending on who you speak to).  I would say it is similar in grade to the Green Traverse, so font 6c+ would describe it best IMO.  This is a great problem, with the crux of the traverse section being right near the end.  Elliot and I are very different heights, so had a very different sequence for the crux.  With this dispatched we turned our sights to some of the other classics, but got spanked.  What a difference is makes when it's not playing to your strengths.

Loving the big holds

A cheeky toe hook making the sloper feel like a jug

We decided to head to West Vale to massage the ego a little, being vertical and crimpy.  I showed Elliot a few of the classics, which he cruised.  Our attention then turned to the steep high arete which makes up the end of the Scot is Bent wall.  Climbed on it's right hand side, it's given V6 6b+.  This was not too bad, just rquired a bit of commitment.  Both quite happy with our day we decided to save some skin for tomorrow.