CWA Training

Over the weekend I ran a CWA Training course for McKinley Mountaineering.  It was a full course, with a great mix of experience through the candidates, which really made it.  The personal climbing day was done in the varied venue of ROKT.  A great venue for this day of the award.  The second day looking at all the group aspects and the abseil module was done at The Leeds Wall.  Another good venue for this award, and contrasting to the previous days.

Work, Work

After a day inside route setting yesterday, it was nice to be out today.  I was working with Steve at Heptonstall doing a multi pitch training day in preparation for his schools trip to Wales next month.  We spent the day looking at belays and stance management, as we broke up the routes into 2 or 3 pitches.  This worked really well, and gave a good opportunity to talk about avoiding common stance problems with 3 people.  Steve did well on the routes he led and was well organised.  A bit more practise before the trip and things will be cruisy.

Steve on Sunstroke Slab

We nipped over to Mytholm Steep Quarry to climb the rarely dry and climbed Revolution HVS 5b**.  It was a bit dirty, but gave some great climbing.

SPA Refresher, then SPA Assessment

On Friday I was at Stanage doing an SPA Refresher.  It was a long and productive day as we went through the whole syllabus, but the sunshine made it a good day to be out.

I went back out in the evening with friends for a bit of a boulder, and ticked a few classics in the process.

A great evening at Stanage

Over the weekend I ran an SPA Assessment.  The weather made it a nice, but tiring affair, but the candidates did a great job.  Burbage North was the venue on Saturday for the personal climbing section, before heading to the Foundry to cover the wall bits.

Above & Below: Evangelos enjoying his assessment

 





James & Vicky stuck into 20ft Crack

I nipped out to Stanage again in the evening and climbed some classic routes with Penny.  She cruised the VS's and HVS's we did on this, her first time outside for a while.

Sunday was the group day, and Lawrancefield and Millstone where the venues.  It was a tough day, but everyone put a lot of effort in.  There was success for most, but one unfortunately needs to return for this day.  Congratulations to everyone that passed, a good effort by all.

Work and Climbing

I've been pretty busy again since last blogging.  The usual route setting has kept me going, as well as hanging banners and letters off the outside of the ROKT building.  There have been a few good climbing sessions locally too.  A mileage day at Heptonstall in which we climbed 20 pitches.  All but 3 of these were E2 and above.  On another visit to Heptonstall, I flashed Anti cyclone E5 6b*, which is a steep thin crack finish to Thin Red Line.  One worth doing.

Whilst up in Fort William on a family holiday, I grabbed a couple of hour out with some friends.  A dad's outing that saw us move together and bag 16 pitches of severe in about an hour and a half, and finish at the top of the crag.

Today I had a quick visit to Widdop after hearing a couple of routes had been cleaned.  I quickly soloed Piton Crack E1 5b* and Mantel Madness E3 6a, then thought I'd do my bit and clean another couple.  Stage Fright E3 6a was a great solo and then Hammertime E6 6b* was terrifying one.  A great morning though.

A Bit of Work and Milage

This week I have managed to cram a fair bit in.  A couple of steady bouldering sessions outside doing problems up to 7b+ I know to try and build up some strength.  I have done my usual route setting at Rokt, and fitted in doing the odd route there too. 

Yesterday I went to Heptonstall with Dan hoping to get a good session in before the rain.  After warming up of a few easy routes, we got stuck into some laps.  I ended up climbing 16 pitches of E2-4,with a high number in the higher end.  Leaving the crag tired, but not wasted meant it was a perfectly balanced session.

I am working tomorrow, so no doubt I'll squeeze in a few routes too.

SPA Assessment

Over the weekend I ran an SPA Assessment in the Peak in friendly weather.  The 4 candidates did well across the 2 days, the first of which was at Froggatt.  A good personal climbing day, with a high standard of leading by all.  Day 1 continued into the evening at the Foundry to cover the climbing wall part of the award.

Day 2 stayed mostly dry for us at Millstone and Lawrancefield for the group section too.  A steady day by all meant passes all round, a good result.

A busy Couple of Weeks

Things have been pretty hectic over the last couple weeks with work etc. So not as much time to get out.  The beginning of the month took me to the Peak to shadow a Gold DofE practise expedition in some pretty horrible weather.  Since then, the weather has been improved.  I've had the odd session at Woodhouse in between route setting and site visits, but have been feeling a bit weak still.  A quick morning visit to Heptonstall helped pick me up, with ascents of some routes I had not done before.  Holdless E4 6a, Just Jump E4 6b and No Safety, No Surprise E5 6b are not in the current guide, but will be nice additions to the new guide.

Tuesday saw a turn around for me at Woodhouse.  An early start gave top conditions on the Clingen Face.  After warming up, I rattled through Angel Face, Angel Face Reverse, Angel's Crossing Extention and Angel Face Roof Eliminate, all 7b+.  With a couple of 7b's and 7a+'s it was a great session.

Today I went to Troller's Gill with Ed not expecting much after setting Wednesday and climbing in the wall a little yesterday.  I felt sluggish warming up, but thought I'd get stuck into Kick My Habit 7c anyway.  It was pretty dirty and dusty at I put the draws in, but after a good brush and quick climb through the tricky sections it felt fine.  I had a good rest, then sent it first go.  Pretty psyched with that.  I had a quick play on Mhoody Dhoo 8a+ next.  I could link the first 3 bolts and do the finish up Angel Heart, but there are 2 or 3 moves in the middle I can't work out.  I pulled a big hold off today, so the way I would have done it no longer exists.  It's a bit gutting, but I might work it out yet.