A Bit of Work and Milage

This week I have managed to cram a fair bit in.  A couple of steady bouldering sessions outside doing problems up to 7b+ I know to try and build up some strength.  I have done my usual route setting at Rokt, and fitted in doing the odd route there too. 

Yesterday I went to Heptonstall with Dan hoping to get a good session in before the rain.  After warming up of a few easy routes, we got stuck into some laps.  I ended up climbing 16 pitches of E2-4,with a high number in the higher end.  Leaving the crag tired, but not wasted meant it was a perfectly balanced session.

I am working tomorrow, so no doubt I'll squeeze in a few routes too.

SPA Assessment

Over the weekend I ran an SPA Assessment in the Peak in friendly weather.  The 4 candidates did well across the 2 days, the first of which was at Froggatt.  A good personal climbing day, with a high standard of leading by all.  Day 1 continued into the evening at the Foundry to cover the climbing wall part of the award.

Day 2 stayed mostly dry for us at Millstone and Lawrancefield for the group section too.  A steady day by all meant passes all round, a good result.

A busy Couple of Weeks

Things have been pretty hectic over the last couple weeks with work etc. So not as much time to get out.  The beginning of the month took me to the Peak to shadow a Gold DofE practise expedition in some pretty horrible weather.  Since then, the weather has been improved.  I've had the odd session at Woodhouse in between route setting and site visits, but have been feeling a bit weak still.  A quick morning visit to Heptonstall helped pick me up, with ascents of some routes I had not done before.  Holdless E4 6a, Just Jump E4 6b and No Safety, No Surprise E5 6b are not in the current guide, but will be nice additions to the new guide.

Tuesday saw a turn around for me at Woodhouse.  An early start gave top conditions on the Clingen Face.  After warming up, I rattled through Angel Face, Angel Face Reverse, Angel's Crossing Extention and Angel Face Roof Eliminate, all 7b+.  With a couple of 7b's and 7a+'s it was a great session.

Today I went to Troller's Gill with Ed not expecting much after setting Wednesday and climbing in the wall a little yesterday.  I felt sluggish warming up, but thought I'd get stuck into Kick My Habit 7c anyway.  It was pretty dirty and dusty at I put the draws in, but after a good brush and quick climb through the tricky sections it felt fine.  I had a good rest, then sent it first go.  Pretty psyched with that.  I had a quick play on Mhoody Dhoo 8a+ next.  I could link the first 3 bolts and do the finish up Angel Heart, but there are 2 or 3 moves in the middle I can't work out.  I pulled a big hold off today, so the way I would have done it no longer exists.  It's a bit gutting, but I might work it out yet.

Wilton Classics

Today after checking the weather, Elliot and I settled on Wilton 1 as the rain was not due till the afternoon.  I have only done one trad route this year, but as always was thinking of something tricky.  First up I gave Pathetique E5 6b* a severe make over as I waited for Elliot to turn up.  It was an awkward one to clean, as the line is not very obvious under all the dirt.  It would also be easy to stray into the routes either side and miss the crux out.  I'm pretty sure I cleaned the line, as Elliot could not do the crux sequence.  I was psyched to Flashed the route, but almost dropped the crux first try when I mess up the foot sequence.  After reversing down and having a second look, it went smoothly.  I'm glad, as it's not a route to fall off.

Elliot cruised up Cameo E1 5a*** as are warm up.  He then tried Soot Monkeys E6 6c** on a top rope.  I fancied Parasite E5 6b** which had been climbed recently.  Elliot had said the pegs were poor, so I abseiled down to check.  He was right.  The climbing also looked blind, so rather than have a horror as my third route of the year, I gave it a quick climb, belaying myself as I went.  Happy is was ok, I went for the lead.  It would be fait to say a pissed up to the pegs, and feeling like it was super easy, I decided to just miss out some moves and crank straight up.  This meant I used a smear that was not clean, and also meant my foot popped straight off as did I.  Gutted, but happy the pegs held, I got straight back on.  This was an error as I was a little pumped by the peg this time, and the rest of the route felt harder than it should have.  Excellent climbing though, and probably a little under graded for a true on sight.

Starting the second crux

Leaving the pegs behind

On the jugs after the run out