Elliot cruised up Cameo E1 5a*** as are warm up. He then tried Soot Monkeys E6 6c** on a top rope. I fancied Parasite E5 6b** which had been climbed recently. Elliot had said the pegs were poor, so I abseiled down to check. He was right. The climbing also looked blind, so rather than have a horror as my third route of the year, I gave it a quick climb, belaying myself as I went. Happy is was ok, I went for the lead. It would be fait to say a pissed up to the pegs, and feeling like it was super easy, I decided to just miss out some moves and crank straight up. This meant I used a smear that was not clean, and also meant my foot popped straight off as did I. Gutted, but happy the pegs held, I got straight back on. This was an error as I was a little pumped by the peg this time, and the rest of the route felt harder than it should have. Excellent climbing though, and probably a little under graded for a true on sight.
|Starting the second crux|
|Leaving the pegs behind|
|On the jugs after the run out|