Wednesday, 2 April 2014

Wilton Classics

Today after checking the weather, Elliot and I settled on Wilton 1 as the rain was not due till the afternoon.  I have only done one trad route this year, but as always was thinking of something tricky.  First up I gave Pathetique E5 6b* a severe make over as I waited for Elliot to turn up.  It was an awkward one to clean, as the line is not very obvious under all the dirt.  It would also be easy to stray into the routes either side and miss the crux out.  I'm pretty sure I cleaned the line, as Elliot could not do the crux sequence.  I was psyched to Flashed the route, but almost dropped the crux first try when I mess up the foot sequence.  After reversing down and having a second look, it went smoothly.  I'm glad, as it's not a route to fall off.

Elliot cruised up Cameo E1 5a*** as are warm up.  He then tried Soot Monkeys E6 6c** on a top rope.  I fancied Parasite E5 6b** which had been climbed recently.  Elliot had said the pegs were poor, so I abseiled down to check.  He was right.  The climbing also looked blind, so rather than have a horror as my third route of the year, I gave it a quick climb, belaying myself as I went.  Happy is was ok, I went for the lead.  It would be fait to say a pissed up to the pegs, and feeling like it was super easy, I decided to just miss out some moves and crank straight up.  This meant I used a smear that was not clean, and also meant my foot popped straight off as did I.  Gutted, but happy the pegs held, I got straight back on.  This was an error as I was a little pumped by the peg this time, and the rest of the route felt harder than it should have.  Excellent climbing though, and probably a little under graded for a true on sight.

Starting the second crux

Leaving the pegs behind
On the jugs after the run out

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