Monday, 2 November 2015

New Routes

Since being back I have managed a quick hit a Woodhouse, where I added yet another 7c link which is probably only of interest to me and a small group of locals.

Woodhouse action

Today I went back to Reddyshore Scout to have a look at the other new lines that had been pointed out to me. Joined by Elliot, we set about cleaning up one each. I brushed and sussed out my line, before then leading it. Elliot couldn't pull on the starting holds, so saved his energy for the other route. I graded the route for the on sight, which would have a serious feel to it, especially at the start. Because of this I gave it E5 6a* Tattersall's Lament Direct.

Through the hard climbing on Tattersall's 

Doing the crux

We then got stuck into Elliot's line. He showed me what he was thinking, then I had a bash on a toprope. It had a weird crux, but I managed to work out a way at the second time of asking. Elliot then tried for the lead, but fell a couple of times on the crux. I went next and got it first go on the lead. A tricky little number, with some good climbing in it. I've called it Bitter Sweet E5 6b*, again grading for the on sight. Unfortunately Elliot didn't get the send, but it would go super quick if he returns. A good day, with a few things still to go I'm told.

Mid crux on Bitter Sweet 

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