Number 3 Gully Buttress

Good snowfall over night.

Today we ventured up the Ben to find a fair amount of snow had come down.  A number of teams were about, one on Green Gully, Number 2 Gully Buttress and a team headed towards the cascade area.

We opted to go for Number 3 Gully Buttress which looked in great condition.  There was excellent ice on the start and we also climbed the steep ice corner of Quick Step to access the rightward traverse.  This adds a some good climbing instead of traversing around.  We did have a fair amount of spindrift coming down to give the full Scottish experience.  The mixed step was good spot, as the snow was not as consolidated in some spots as you would like.  Typical early season condition.  We cruised along steadily to top out in less windy conditions than expected.

Guy had been over in Glencoe and said there was very little snow,  and thinks had not really firmed up that well.  With the high temperature tomorrow and heavy rain forecast, it will be interesting to see how things hold up.

Dorsal Arete

Today was very warm.  A complete contrast to yesterday,  but at least it was dry.  We had decided yesterday to have a walk back in to scnl, with the view of doing Dorsal.  It's a great little route and the lack of snow around the apron meant that approaching should be straight forward.   Karen and Rhys made short work of the walk with there lighter bags and we sailed up the route.   After a discussion about what to do next,  we opted for a descent down Broad Gully and back to the car.  This will hopefully recharge them for a bigger day tomorrow. 

Conditions on the route were lean,  with the fin being a rock climb.  The snow that remained on the route was good, with the odd icy patch about. The turf was still frozen for the most part, so hopefully it will improve as the temperature comes down tomorrow. 

Raeburn's Ordinary Route

SCNL Today

Rhys and Karen on approach 

Today was the start of Karen and Rhys's week long climbing course. We opted to start a day earlier than planned, as today seemed like it could be the best of the week.  This is the 4th year I've worked with them, so we decided to make the most of the weather and start big.  Despite doing little climbing this year, they coped well with the route.  After making reasonably short work of the first crux pitch, they continued this for the rest of the route. The route was on the challenging side today.  There is very little in the way of consolidated snow, so all those transitions on to ledges made for good sport today.  The temperature remained pretty stable just above freezing, with the snowpack seemingly holding just below.  The turf was widely frozen at the start of the day, but there was the odd section low down that was on the turn.

A great start to the week, let's hope it continues  fruitfully with some clever route choices.

More pics when I get use of a computer. 

Last Bit of Rock in 2014

After a busy xmas with a bit of setting and a good morning bouldering session locally.  I was not expecting much from our day at Hobson Moor yesterday.  The general consensus was routes, so Hobson, being reasonably sheltered and quick drying fit the bill.  Ben and Dan started off on Crew's Routes VS 4c*,  so I soloed a fee things to warm up before seconding that also. Dan is just getting into trad, so started his leading off on Evening Ridge Midnight Variation S. Not a classic, but got him moving. I started off with Sunshine Superman E2 5b*.  A bold little number with a fee damp holds, which made it interesting.   Ben then led this also.  A great led as he is still getting his head back after a broken ankle bouldering.

Ben on Sunshine Superman

Dan the led Crew's Route which he avoided seconding earlier.  I used that time to clean and dryish Eastern Touch E4 6a*.  As it was damp I opted to pre place the gear as I can't afford to hurt myself with winter work booked in next week.  I Flashed the route, which had some nice climbing.  A route that has gear that could be placed off jugs all the way up.  Ben took advantage of my work and Flashed the route in the same style.

Flashing Eastern Touch

Dan then led his first HVS in Parker's Eliminate HVS 5a***.  A solid lead.

Dan sending large

I again cleaned and attempted to dry Gardener's World E4 6b*.  This was proper wet in the crux, but it is safe, so I pre placed the gear again and gave it a lash.  It was touch and go through the wet crux, almost dropping it clipping the gear mid crux as I was sliding off the wet holds.  I managed to bear down and keep going, drying my hand for every move from halfway to the top.  Good climbing that would be quite straightforward if it was dry.

We rapped the day off with a solo of Tighe's Arete E1 5a**, then some bouldering.

A good day at a venue with a good selection on days like this.

Bits of Bouldering

As Xmas and my first bit of winter work in Jan approaches, I have been filling what spare time I have with a bit of local bouldering.  With only the odd hour or so here and there, Woodhouse has been the saving grace again.

I popped over on Friday to take some pics for a locals supplement guide and catch up with Paul.  He was busy trying Houdini Direct 7c+, and making good progress.  I headed to the far left of the crag to take a few pics and warm up.  I did a usual circuit of problems, the went and did the Sheriff 7b+ and took some pics.  I was nicely warmed up and conditions were excellent, so I thought I'd try my nemesis, Jack's Arete 7c.  I'd made it to the last move a few times in the past, but can never move.  However, for some reason I could move my knee and it slipped from under the roof onto the side of the arête.  This made all the difference and I could move from there.  I dropped the top, more from the shock of doing the move before I think.  I quickly sussed out how to do the move again and it went next go.  Super psyched to do this, as it is everything in bouldering I'm bad at.  A good power problem, even it is only 2/3 moves.

Walking smugly back to Paul, he gave me all the beta on Houdini Direct.  This is another problem I had written off.  I had come back to it a number of times, but one move had seemed total impossible and I'd never even got close.  Paul's new beta seemed much more doable, and I did the move first try.  Totally psyched now for the problem, as I've done all the moves and actually had done it in 2 sections.  Just before the rain came Paul sent the problem in style, which was fitting as he had put a good few sessions in working it.

First Crux done, just the set up and second crux to go

I stopped in on Sunday to have another quick go and managed to do all the moves again, as well as in 2 sections.  I kept dropping the problem on the second crux to the lip.  This is desperate for me, as I'm in my weakest position (horizontal) and it's a full on pop cutting loose.  I'm hoping that the cold I keep trying to fight off is the cause of my lameness, but fear it's probably a bit of both.  On a positive note.  It's 5 mins from home and it will go soon!!

CWA Training

Over the weekend I ran a CWA Training course for a bunch of staff from Climb Rochdale and students from Bolton Boy School.  It was a great mix of experience and made for a good training course.  Having worked with the Bolton School bunch a bit over the last year or so, it's really nice to see them coming through into the awards as well.

We split the course across 2 venues, Climb Rochdale and Rokt.  This gave 2 very different venues, which really added to the course.

Catchimg Up

I've been a little slack lately, so here's a quick catch up.

At the End of November I did a couple of day paddling work with Bolton School.  I had not been in a boat for almost 9 years, but it strangely felt like it had been yesterday.  We did a good couple of moving water seasons on the Lune and the Dee, which everyone showed great progression on.

Bouncy fun on the Dee

Climbing has been a bit stop start with the weather and work.  I've been ticking over with the usual route setting and a couple of indoor sessions (weather must be bad).  Ben and I grabbed a good session at the Roost on the 1st December, where we climbed a number of the E4's to warm up before I climbed and cleaned a rather dirty Fascination Street E7 6c***.  I had one go on a rope, and climbed the route in two, as I struggled to recover at a poor shakeout.  I was a bit disappointed with this, but it turns out I felt tired and weak due to a chest infection.  BOO!

Recovering from illness and running a CWA Assessment with a bit more setting thrown in takes us up to date.  The snow up North is causing a bit of FOMO!  But it is hard to find the time these days for a quick hit and partners that match.

I will be up in the Fort at the start of Jan for my first batch of winter work.  As usual I will be splitting the season between Scotland and Yorkshire.  There is still 1 week available in March 16th-20th if anyone is looking for a weeks climbing.