Yesterday Matt, James and I went up to the Cascades by the CIC hut. I have wanted to climb the main cascade for a long time, but always seem to miss it. There was another team ahead of us, so we chilled at the bottom (it was a stunning day). The leader had a bit of an epic and had to take a belay just above half height. I let the second get clear, but unfortunately had to hang around for a while until they led and followed the top section (thank god it had eased). The route is outstanding, but very bold at the bottom. All the features make the climbing very varied and interesting throughout, but block the chance of good screws. I placed some poor slings over spikes and threads that did not really inspire confidence. I find this style of climbing hard to grade, but a bold and spooky V,5 seems fair.
A big thanks to Matt for the Pics.