Sunday, 8 February 2015

Stanworth and Wiltons

Setting up to pop
Today I had another rare full day to climb on a Sunday.  Elliot had mentioned he was heading to Wilton today, so I took I slightly longer way there via Stanworth Quarry. I had been there a few weeks ago and had unfinished business with Fracking 7c+.
The pop
The conditions where great despite the fog, so I warmed up on a few of the other problems on that part of the crag.  Dynamo 6a+, Iddybits 7a, Shuffle Generation 7a+ and Backlash sit 7a providing good climbing.  Once warmed up I got on Fracking.  After the damage the sharp flatty did last time, I put a bit of tape over the edge.  This made it kinder to the skin, but trickier to hold.  Finally after hitting the top 10 times, I finally stuck it.  Happy I moved to Wilton. 
The Stick
I went to Wilton 1 first whilst I waited for Elliot to show.  There I ticked a few thing, but the best was The Move 7a, The Move Sit Start 7a+ and The Move no back wall 7b.  These were all onsight. 

Elliot turned up so I went over to Wilton 4.  There has been some cleaning going on here,  so I was keen to tick a few things if possible.  I tried Haig E2 6b,  but shredded my knuckle in the crack first go.  Gutted I eventually stopped the bleeding and taped it up.  I then Flashed Hell's Bells E5 6b**. This was to the top break, which was wet. The rest of the top was wet too,  so I came down from there.  The E4's on the wall were pretty dirty in the upper reaches.  I did get to a metre from the top on one, but dirt won out.  I wrapped my day up with a quick ascent of The Renaissance Men 7b+.  A great end to a good day.
The Renaissance Men 

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