Monday, 23 March 2015

Scarlet Fever

After waking up to a damp day, I scrawled through the guidebook looking for a crag that faced the right way, was sheltered and not too far to drive so the journey would not be wasted.  I came up with Mytholm Steeps.

There were a couple of things to go at, but they needed a good brush and a little time for the few damp bits to dry.  Whilst cleaning I noticed the potential for a line on the wall to the left.  That was dry, so I cleaned it up and had a play whilst I was waiting.  The climbing was excellent, but what little protection there might be seemed poor. After toproping the route a few times, I decided it was to go for the solo.  I had a pad with me which at least partly cushioned the boulder below the first crux at 5m.  More good technical climbing followed to reach the final crux move to the top. An exciting dynamic pop to a flat jug.  From there the route followed Nick the Grip to the top.

Into the first crux, point of no return 
That gave the F.A. of Scarlet Fever E7 6b*
25m. A little eliminate, in that it climbs the wall between The Rift and Nick the Grip without using either arete. Climb the right side of the wall on positive flat holds. At the you would then move onto the arete, make a long move left to a good edge and get established on it. Climb straight up the left side of the wall with some cunning mid way. Holds then lead left to the second crux, a wild move to the top. Finish up Nick the Grip. micro cams may be place in poor/hollow sounding rock at approx half way. A good belayer may keep you off the ground if they hold.
The line
Once I'd finished with Scarlet Fever, I got to Flash Edge of Extinction E2 5b * * and Nick the Grip E4 5c *. A great day after the weather this morning.

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