Mountaineering, guiding and Instruction Welcome to our Climbing and Winter Conditions blog
Thursday, 5 August 2010
Burbage North
Today I was running the first day of a learn to lead course for Dave. We got pretty lucky with the weather and had dry rock all day. After spending a little while placing runners and building belays, Dave was ready to tie on to the sharp end. He did extremly well, leading 5 routes and following a couple of trickier ones. More tomorrow.
Chee Dale
I met up with Tony and Tom on Tuesday and Wednesday and went to Chee Dale for the first time. Tuesday was spent at the cornice where we warmed up on Martial Music, an excellent 7a. I then spent the rest of the session trying Cry of Depair, a steep and technical 7c that is not my thing, so what I need to work on. Good progress was made, but another day would be needed to put the two links together. Tom did the same as me and Tony tried the moves on Four Door Dostoyevsky, which looked nails.
Yesterday we were all a little tired so went to the Embankment. After warming up, Tony finished off Stone the Loach 7c which he had tried before. Tom desided to work this and made good progress. I opted for easier routes and tried to onsight Beef It 7b, only to blow it at the last bolt when I messed up a hand change. It was much easier second go. I finished my session by onsighting Hungry Eyes 7a+. An excellent route that is pretty pumpy, I had to lay one on at the top!
I will definately be back.
Yesterday we were all a little tired so went to the Embankment. After warming up, Tony finished off Stone the Loach 7c which he had tried before. Tom desided to work this and made good progress. I opted for easier routes and tried to onsight Beef It 7b, only to blow it at the last bolt when I messed up a hand change. It was much easier second go. I finished my session by onsighting Hungry Eyes 7a+. An excellent route that is pretty pumpy, I had to lay one on at the top!
I will definately be back.
Monday, 2 August 2010
Summit Quarry
Today I went with Emma to have a look around Summit Quarry. We climbed a couple of routes, the best being Laying-by E3 5c**. An easy route for the grade, but bold. For a small quarry, there is some ok climbing with pleasant surroundings.
Friday, 30 July 2010
Daytona Wall
Not having the time to meet up with Pete and Crofty at Armscliff today, I opted to nip down the road to Cow's Mouth Quarry. This was my first visit, and I was interested in trying Daytona Wall E5 6a *** which is the classic of the crag. I warmed up on King B E1 5c*, which was a little dirty and spooked me enough to think twice about the onsight solo of Daytona. After starting up and retreating I threw a rope down and cleaned and practised the moves. This proved the right decision, as there was a hold through the crux I would not have spotted. After a little break, I topped out on the solo psyched that the walk in was not wasted. I rapped up my session by soloing most of the routes up to E2 in the rockfax guide. With 20 routes under my belt I had a contented walk back to the car.
Thursday, 29 July 2010
Wilton 1 & 4 and the Brownstones
Above: EKU 28
I was planning to have a chill out day, but desided against it when Elliott said he was keen for Wilton. We started the day at Wilton 1 where I warmed up on Cheat E3 5b***, an excellent route up a steep slab. Elliott then led Parodox E2 5b**, which has some good steep climbing on good holds. To finish in Wilton 1 I led Lazy Friday E4 5c**. This had some great open slab climbing on good edges in an exciting position. We then nipped over to Wilton 4 some I could get a cheaky solo of EKU 28 E3 5c*. A pleasent little slab route.
Below: EKU 28
To finish the day we went to the Brownstones. It was my first visit, so we did all the classics with my highlights being Digitation V2 and Pigswill V7.
Wednesday, 28 July 2010
DofE
The last 2 days have been spent working the final practise expedition for another group from Bolton Lads and Girls Club. This took us again over Great Hill on the first day and back around Anglesarke moor on the second. Despite the bad weather, the group did well, but a little more work is needed befor etheir final exped in September.
Monday, 26 July 2010
3 Peaks Challenge
I am chilling out today after working a National 3 Peaks Challenge for Maximum Adventure. The clients were from Gala Coral and raising money for Sue Ryder Care. Overall, the weekend was a success. Most people completed the challenge and raised alot of money for a great cause.
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