A Bit of Lancashire bouldering

Today I went out with Garry and headed into the depths of Lancashire for a spot of bouldering.   We went to Stanworth Quarry which had a bit of dry stuff towards the right end of the crag.

I did a nice enough 6b+ in the middle section of the the right side on a section that looked more like pex hill, but wetness but us of doing anything else.  We then did a couple of 7a's.  One up a wall to hard manta, and the other up the arete of that wall.  After that we went to the far right and did Backlash S'S 7a which was good, before trying the harder problems.  Fracking 7c+ got the most attention, and I hit the top with my tips on a half hearted effort.  Sure it would go next try, I laid one on and got the hold, but ripped a lot of skin on the razor sharp edge which made me let go.  Pain and blood didn't put me off taping up and trying again, but hitting the top again the discomfort was enough to make me let go.  Next time.

Ouch!

 We then moved on to Knowle Heights where Garry made swift work of Race to Base 7b.  My sore hand and powered out body failed to stick one move which meant no joy today.  Frustrating as the problem was not that hard, just one of those things.

Race to Base

CWA Training

After the work in Scotland last week, I had to run back down South for a CWA Training over the weekend.  It was a good course, and good mix of experience within the candidates.  As usual, ROKT and The Leeds Wall provided good venues and prompted some good discussion.

Today I have been setting at ROKT, trying to catch back up after the festive period.  I need to pull my finger out this month, as I'll be away a bit more next month.

2 Route day in the Gorms

After a long and useful skills day yesterday at the ice factor, we were keen to get stuck into a good route today to rap the week up.  The decision was to head East for a change of scenery and style.

The snow starting to stick to the road on the drive over to the gorms was a good sign there should be something to do.  The lack of snow in general is surprising, but was improving as we arrived at a snowy car park.  The walk in was as easy as ever.  It always feels like a rest day after the walks on the West.  We made our way over to the Fiacaill Buttress as it looked the whitest by far.  Other teams had the same idea, but despite being the first of the groups we approached with to start.  A couple of teams had been early starters.   We had hopes to do the Seam,  and despite a team starting the chimney as we sorted ropes, I'd hoped they would be up and gone by the time we arrived.  Unfortunately this was not the case, so we opted to go up Short Curcuit IV, 5 instead.   This was in excellent condition and offered some great sport, With the final pitch buried under 6 inches of power.

Rhys pulling hard up the steep little corner on Short Curcuit 

Karen getting stuck into some proper Scottish mixed

 We descended the ridge and back into the corie to go and do a sporty Aladdin's Mirror Direct. It was a rapid ascent with the best ice being straight up the pillar at the moment making it a bit more sustained that usual.  We abseiled off and enjoyed the veiw as the light faded,  making it back to the car without the headtouches.

Happy team back at the car

A great week.

Number 3 Gully Buttress

Good snowfall over night.

Today we ventured up the Ben to find a fair amount of snow had come down.  A number of teams were about, one on Green Gully, Number 2 Gully Buttress and a team headed towards the cascade area.

We opted to go for Number 3 Gully Buttress which looked in great condition.  There was excellent ice on the start and we also climbed the steep ice corner of Quick Step to access the rightward traverse.  This adds a some good climbing instead of traversing around.  We did have a fair amount of spindrift coming down to give the full Scottish experience.  The mixed step was good spot, as the snow was not as consolidated in some spots as you would like.  Typical early season condition.  We cruised along steadily to top out in less windy conditions than expected.

Guy had been over in Glencoe and said there was very little snow,  and thinks had not really firmed up that well.  With the high temperature tomorrow and heavy rain forecast, it will be interesting to see how things hold up.

Dorsal Arete

Today was very warm.  A complete contrast to yesterday,  but at least it was dry.  We had decided yesterday to have a walk back in to scnl, with the view of doing Dorsal.  It's a great little route and the lack of snow around the apron meant that approaching should be straight forward.   Karen and Rhys made short work of the walk with there lighter bags and we sailed up the route.   After a discussion about what to do next,  we opted for a descent down Broad Gully and back to the car.  This will hopefully recharge them for a bigger day tomorrow. 

Conditions on the route were lean,  with the fin being a rock climb.  The snow that remained on the route was good, with the odd icy patch about. The turf was still frozen for the most part, so hopefully it will improve as the temperature comes down tomorrow. 

Raeburn's Ordinary Route

SCNL Today

Rhys and Karen on approach 

Today was the start of Karen and Rhys's week long climbing course. We opted to start a day earlier than planned, as today seemed like it could be the best of the week.  This is the 4th year I've worked with them, so we decided to make the most of the weather and start big.  Despite doing little climbing this year, they coped well with the route.  After making reasonably short work of the first crux pitch, they continued this for the rest of the route. The route was on the challenging side today.  There is very little in the way of consolidated snow, so all those transitions on to ledges made for good sport today.  The temperature remained pretty stable just above freezing, with the snowpack seemingly holding just below.  The turf was widely frozen at the start of the day, but there was the odd section low down that was on the turn.

A great start to the week, let's hope it continues  fruitfully with some clever route choices.

More pics when I get use of a computer. 

Last Bit of Rock in 2014

After a busy xmas with a bit of setting and a good morning bouldering session locally.  I was not expecting much from our day at Hobson Moor yesterday.  The general consensus was routes, so Hobson, being reasonably sheltered and quick drying fit the bill.  Ben and Dan started off on Crew's Routes VS 4c*,  so I soloed a fee things to warm up before seconding that also. Dan is just getting into trad, so started his leading off on Evening Ridge Midnight Variation S. Not a classic, but got him moving. I started off with Sunshine Superman E2 5b*.  A bold little number with a fee damp holds, which made it interesting.   Ben then led this also.  A great led as he is still getting his head back after a broken ankle bouldering.

Ben on Sunshine Superman

Dan the led Crew's Route which he avoided seconding earlier.  I used that time to clean and dryish Eastern Touch E4 6a*.  As it was damp I opted to pre place the gear as I can't afford to hurt myself with winter work booked in next week.  I Flashed the route, which had some nice climbing.  A route that has gear that could be placed off jugs all the way up.  Ben took advantage of my work and Flashed the route in the same style.

Flashing Eastern Touch

Dan then led his first HVS in Parker's Eliminate HVS 5a***.  A solid lead.

Dan sending large

I again cleaned and attempted to dry Gardener's World E4 6b*.  This was proper wet in the crux, but it is safe, so I pre placed the gear again and gave it a lash.  It was touch and go through the wet crux, almost dropping it clipping the gear mid crux as I was sliding off the wet holds.  I managed to bear down and keep going, drying my hand for every move from halfway to the top.  Good climbing that would be quite straightforward if it was dry.

We rapped the day off with a solo of Tighe's Arete E1 5a**, then some bouldering.

A good day at a venue with a good selection on days like this.