Course Availability

Know that the winter is in full swing and conditions are starting to come good, you will need to get in there before there is no more availability.  I have a couple of slots that are still free if you are thinking of booking something to make the most of the conditions.

6-10th Feb and 26-29th Feb 2012 are the last slots available this season.  These can be used to get the most out of you trip to the West Coast.

There is also a slot available on a CIC Hut Climbing week with West Coast Mountain Guides from 4-9th March 2012.  For more info on this contact Alan Kimber and mention that you saw it here.

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Ventricle

After working the weekend Matt and I were keen to get a route in today.  We opted for Lochain as a lay in and short walk in were key to the day.  The wind was stronger than forecast and wind blown snow was evident on the path, so we were aware that getting to the route could be interesting.  After some weaving around we started climbing at a leisurely time (after 10am), and Matt was straight in.  Ventricle VII,8*** has no easy pitches.  Originally graded VII,9, it has short but fierce pitches that are steep and committing.

Matt powering up pitch 1

Getting stuck into pitch 2

Thin moves on pitch 2

Matt starting up pitch 3

Wild conditions on pitch 3

Involved in pitch 4

Matt coming up the offwidth of Pitch 4

The weather meant that we had the full winter experience today.  My eyes even started to rime up and freeze shut at one point.  The amount of snow being moved today was massive, so a lot of care should be used if you are out and about.

Cairngorm Weekend

Myself and Matt have been East this weekend working with Richard, Chris and Richard.  I was with Rich G and our focus was on gaining confidence on routes and a variety of terrain.  Saturday saw us climbing in the Forty Thieves area at around grade 2.  This gave a mix of terrain and also left us with enough time to look at some snow craft on the way down.  Matt climbed Fluted Buttress Direct IV,5*** with Richard and Chris, who all came back with a big smile on their faces.

Rich and Chris chillin in the chimney

Sunday we started early and walked over to Hell's Lum.  Matt and the boys climbed a busy Deep Cut Chimney IV,5***, whilst Richard and I opted for the Sneer III.  We made quick progress up our route, so walked back into Sneachda and climbed Goat Track Gully Right Hand II.

It was nice to get away from the crowds and climb some Cairngorm ice that is not really that far to walk to.

Jacknife

Both Guy and I were pretty tired today after yesterdays efforts, but wanted to take advantage of the good weather.  We decided to head up the Ben and do something short on the Douglas boulder.  Neither of us were too keen to wade up high through the dodgy snow after the avalanches yesterday on Aonach Mor and the Ben.  This did not stop some, as large teams kept on trucking into some very loaded areas.

Guy Starting up the crux pitch of Jacknife

Into a nice bridged rest

We had the Boulder to ourselves and it was Guy's turn to lead as I had been hogging things a little recently.  We chose a newish route of Andy Turner's called Jacknife V,6*, which climbs the corner right of Cutlass.  The did the job perfectly giving 2 good length pitches and one short one to join the SW ridge.  We down climbed SW Ridge back into the gully and made a pleasant walk down for tea and cake.

There are lots of things to do up there at the moment, but care is needed to avoid some deep pockets of localised windslab.

The Prow FA

I was out with Guy and Luke today and had my eye on what I think is a new line on Aonach Mor.  The Prow to the left of Sterling Bridge has a cool looking groove and hanging crack high in the face.  There was a lot of care needed to get to the route today avoiding some funky snow and dodgy pockets of wind slab.  There where 2 parties caught in small avalanches that I know of today on the slopes East of Easy Gully, and we witnessed a natural release as well.

The route we climbed had some excellent climbing on it and felt a bit harder and bolder than anything else I had led recently.   After discussing it and comparing it to things of similar grades, we can to an easy consensus.  The route is described below.

Resting before launching into the crux

Working hard through the thin hooks and feet

The Prow VIII,8** (Adam Hughes, Guy Stevens & Luke Brooks)

Pitch 1. (30m) Start underneath the prow and climb the slab to reach a ramp below the obvious groove.  Climb the turfy groove with good gear to make a tricky step right on to a good foothold.  Here the Groove narrows and becomes blank.  make some thin moves to gain the steep wall out right, and make even thinner moves on poor flat hooks to reach the thin hanging crack/corner.  More thin moves up the crack gains some good, but hollow hooks half way up the corner (poor bulldog protects).  From here a committing move left leads to a rest on a good turf ledge.  Move up and then move right across the face to regain the crack then the arete.  Easy climbing leads to a good belay.

The angle gear showing how steep it is!

Pitch 2. (25m) Climb the easy snow to the top.

Alien Abduction

Trying to find a hook over the crux roof

Today John and I were keen to get a route in before the temperature shot up.  Despite the avalanche risk being High, we opted to go to Aonach Mor, hoping to climb Alien Abduction VII,8**.  Armed with a bit of local knowledge we abseiled in, kicking through the cornice as we went.  The route looked awesome, so we got stuck straight in.  After John led the first pitch, I got into the main event which was extremely bold to start..  A runner at the base of the corner was the only comfort for the thin icy mixed climbing until the crux 15m up.  Thankfully, I managed to clear a crack out and get a cluster of gear before taking on the crux roof.  Thin icy hooks with very poor feet took me through the roof, followed by more thin climbing to some good gear (eventually).  I was soon at the belay with a great pitch behind me and only easy ground ahead.  John romped up this as things started to drip.

A great route on a marginal day, awesome!

Almost there!

Fiacail Ridge

Today was a guided day for Ben and Chris, with the aim to do something challenging and see how the skills they have been learning can be put to use on quite tricky terrain.  The Fiacail Ridge was the perfect place for this.  After a windy walk up to the difficulties, things soon eased as we kitted up.  The ridge proper was in great winter condition, with everything covered in rime.  We made good progress and covered a lot as we climbed the ridge.  We descended 0.5 and made are way out.  the buttresses looked in excellent condition, and there were many teams on a range of routes.  Aladdin's was the least white, but still had a number of routes in condition.