Tuesday, 24 January 2012

Alien Abduction

Trying to find a hook over the crux roof

Today John and I were keen to get a route in before the temperature shot up.  Despite the avalanche risk being High, we opted to go to Aonach Mor, hoping to climb Alien Abduction VII,8**.  Armed with a bit of local knowledge we abseiled in, kicking through the cornice as we went.  The route looked awesome, so we got stuck straight in.  After John led the first pitch, I got into the main event which was extremely bold to start..  A runner at the base of the corner was the only comfort for the thin icy mixed climbing until the crux 15m up.  Thankfully, I managed to clear a crack out and get a cluster of gear before taking on the crux roof.  Thin icy hooks with very poor feet took me through the roof, followed by more thin climbing to some good gear (eventually).  I was soon at the belay with a great pitch behind me and only easy ground ahead.  John romped up this as things started to drip.

A great route on a marginal day, awesome!

Almost there!

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