Today Alex, Alan and I slogged up into the wind through some deepish snow to Cha-no. Thankfully once there, the winds soon eased off, and we could just enjoy the climbing. although the routes are short here, they usually pack a punch for there grade. The crag is well rimed at the moment, but the cracks are in much friendlier condition on the whole.
Alan pulling through a nice steep crack on Anvil Gully
We started off with Anvil Gully IV,4, which has a good mixture of steepish turf and mixed climbing. Both Alan and Alex enjoyed the varied climbing. Alan was feeling the efforts of yesterday and a poor nights sleep, so didn't want to climb again. The weather had improved enough that Alex and I could grab another quick route.
Alan enjoying the exit cracks on Anvil Gully
Alex warming up his mixed skills for the next route
After a quick chat we got on Anvil Corner VI,6. This offered some good steep positive climbing and was at just the right level to push Alex today.
Alex happy to be nearing the end of Anvil Corner
One more day left, then I head back South for work and family time. I'll be back up again in Feb.
Today I have been out with Alex and Alan in Sneachda. They were keen to smash it out, so we get 8n there sharpish and climbed Fingers Ridge is primo condition. We then came back down and nipped up Western Rib.
Enjoying the first couple of pitches
Alex coming up the final steep wall
It's pretty icy in the cracks and gear is hard won. Defo work hard conditions. That said, the climbing is fantastic at the moment.
There were many folks out today on a wide range of routes, so there will be classics with all the belays cleaned out at least.
Today Karen, Rhys and I headed up the Ben to take advantage of the stunning weather. A rare treat after the general ming of the week. There is a surprising amount on offer, especially mixed lines, but things are very icy.
Approaching the belay before the narrowing
We opted for Comb Gully IV,4***, which offered it's own challenges today. After an easy approach, I was soon digging a thigh deep trench up the 1st easy pitch. This took a bit longerto lead than normal. Once in the narrower and steeper section of the gully things generally firmed up. There is good steep climbing g to be had on firm snow and ok ice, with some poor snow and ice inbetween. Very little protection of any quality between belay as a result of this. Despite this we had a great day out and enjoyed a descent of No.4 to get down. A great end to a challenging week.
Today Karen, Rhys and I de the long slog up to Tower Scoop. It was still windy and wild, but it was freezing at around 800m. Some delays this morning caused us to get caught in a queue, but we eventually enjoyed 2 good pitches of ice. The final section being good value for the grade.
Karen topping out after the final steep bit.
The freezing level fluctuated throughout the day, and was on the rise as we left. I'd have said it was raining at 900m. All the snow that was fresh at hut level had all gone as well.
Yesterday was the start of Karen and Rhys's winter week. However, the lack of winter on the West coast and high winds did not enthuse them. We decided to go rock climbing in Glen Nevis and revisit some key skills to hopefully put to good use throughout the rest of the week. It turned out to be a great day, with loads of climbing and some good recapping.
Rhys finish up the last tricky step of Hidden Chimney Direct
This recapping was put to good use today in the gorms where we climbed Hidden Chimney Direct IV,5. I say climbed, but it was more of a swim in places despite being climbed yesterday. A team starting from the Gully meant we would have had to wait a while to finish, so we took a line overlooking it on the right which had an emotional little slot to get by.
Karen embracing the slot
There is a lot more snow over East, so it was definitely worth the drive today.
There is a short video of today on the Facebook page.
Whilst I've been stuck down South making the most of the wet weather by using a boat, Elliot has been on the Ben for the last couple of days. He climbed Gardyloo Gully yesterday and today Comb Gully. Conditions aren't perfect, but there are things to do. Take care.
Since being back I have managed a quick hit a Woodhouse, where I added yet another 7c link which is probably only of interest to me and a small group of locals.
Woodhouse action
Today I went back to Reddyshore Scout to have a look at the other new lines that had been pointed out to me. Joined by Elliot, we set about cleaning up one each. I brushed and sussed out my line, before then leading it. Elliot couldn't pull on the starting holds, so saved his energy for the other route. I graded the route for the on sight, which would have a serious feel to it, especially at the start. Because of this I gave it E5 6a* Tattersall's Lament Direct.
Through the hard climbing on Tattersall's
Doing the crux
We then got stuck into Elliot's line. He showed me what he was thinking, then I had a bash on a toprope. It had a weird crux, but I managed to work out a way at the second time of asking. Elliot then tried for the lead, but fell a couple of times on the crux. I went next and got it first go on the lead. A tricky little number, with some good climbing in it. I've called it Bitter Sweet E5 6b*, again grading for the on sight. Unfortunately Elliot didn't get the send, but it would go super quick if he returns.
A good day, with a few things still to go I'm told.
