Monday, 8 August 2011

Roost Take 2

Andy, Neil and I went back to the Roost today with the aim of trying the Cartel E7 6c***. Andy was not climbing today and very kindly abseiled and brushed the route for us. Neil warmed up ticking the Indirect Start to Chip and Pin E5 6b***, which I climbed as well. It was time to get stuck into the challenge for the day, and Neil was up first. He made a fine job of onsighting Coalition Crack E5 6b*** to the rest before you move into the offwidth and easy ground. This is where the Cartel goes up the headwall. He spent a good while shaking out and trying to work out where to go, then the rain really started to come down, wetting the finishing holds. Neil made the sensible choice to finish Coalition Crack instead.

I had no doubt that flashing the Cartel was a bit of a dream, so I went to see how it was. I managed to get into the meat of the hard climbing but took numerous falls trying to finish what we think is the crux. A bit of work ground up might see this get ticked at some point.

Neil decided to save it for the flash and led Con dem Nation E6 6b*** instead. Narrowly missing out on the flash with a fall low down, but lowered off and led it cleanly next go. I followed the route to get the kit back and it was really greasy today, probably the worst condition I have climbed it in. A fine effort by Neil, who now only has a few routes to do at the crag. It has been great to see other folks climb these routes as well.

I'll try and sort some pics out of the last cpouple of days soon.

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