Thursday, 17 November 2011

Brownstones and Bleeding Tips

It's that time of year when it can be too chilly for routes for me, so bouldering is the best option.  As I am rubbish at bouldering, it takes a bit of effort to get psyched for it.  After a good afternoon on Monday at the Brownstones, I was keen to go back to do some of the tricky problems as they suit my style.

A quick warm up on the Nexus wall, and it was time to do a bit of pulling to get the fingers working.  Some crimpy easy problems and I was good to go.  First I did a couple of the Unjust Eliminates, Unjustice V6 6b* and Unpinched V7 6b/c*, then flashed the Nexus Dyno V4*.  Next up was Pigwill Sit Start V6 6b**, quite a good problem and it set me up nicely to get on Hank's Wall V6 6b***.  This was the first time I had tried this fresh, and what a difference it made.  3 attempts was all it took, not as hard as it seemed at the end of the day on Monday.  Conditions were excellent and I seemed to be on form, so I went to check out Groundhog V6 6b***.  I fluffed the onsight on the last move rushing to finish, but made not mistake on next go.  Seeming to be on a role, I thought I would try the Groundhog Sit Start V8 6c.  This adds a couple of pretty hard moves to join the original.  Pulling on was the crux, then it was not too bad after that.  I had to crimp very hard to hold the small crimps through the normal crux and split a tip whilst sending it.  It was not major, but enough to end play for today.

Fingers crossed it will be ok for tomorrow.

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