Friday, 18 November 2011

Ron's Crack II

Elliot, Nic and I went to Crookrise for a boulder and the odd solo.  Conditions were less than perfect, with damp pockets causing the most frustration.

We all sent Cease Direct V3 and then a few variations on the slab to warm up.  A lot of time was the spent on the Fly V8.  We all managed to get to the pebbles on the slab proper, but using them was not that easy.  Hovis Super Direct V5 was the next problem to cause frustration.  A damp pocket made the crux move really hard to do, another condition dependent problem.  So Elliot soloed Hovis E1 5c***.  We decided to have a go on Ron's Crack II E3 6b** (or V6/7 very highball).  I was gutted to blow the onsight when I didn't get the finger lock in perfect, then bottled it when it started to slip.  No mistake next go, and I have the bruises and skin lose to prove it.  Elliot had commitment issues as it pretty high, so we moved down to Diet Pepsi V4.  My skin had given up, so I was on spotting duty.  This is pretty nippy for the grade, but Elliot managed to send it after a bit of work.  Nic and Elliot finish off sending a range of the problems on End slab.

I need a day off to grow some more skin, but hopefully will get out on Sunday.

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