Wednesday, 2 November 2011

Hawkcliffe and Stanage

Neil and Mhairi has come down from Scotland for a few days, so I have been trying to show them some good route that I have down lately, and thought they could flash.  As Hawkcliffe was on their way, we met there at midday hoping it would be dry after the rain on Monday.  We found Emerald Buttress dry enough and climbed Woodland Ecology E5 6a**.  Neil flashed the route, but was nursing a hang over.  This took its toll on Mhairi's psyche a little and she backed off the route.  The Prow area was a bit damp, so we went to Eldwick for Neil to try and flash The Elevator E5/6 b/c**.  Neil had hurt his finger before coming down and this was too painful on the crux.  Whilst we where there I did the route again so Mhairi could take a couple of pics for me.

Setting up to move into the crux

Catching the Dyno

Today we went to Stanage hoping to take a few classics.  Starting at the lone boulder to get a the feet working, then over to Cresent Arete to get into the arete mode.  Feeling pretty psyched I got on White Wand E5 6a***.  I have been wanting to do this for almost 10 years, but really wanted to cruise it on sight when I did.  The crux was quite nippy for 6a, and the route was a little damp, but it was amazing!  I'm so glad I waited

Engaged on White Wand

High above the pads 
Nearly at the gear
Mhairi then cruised Tower Face HVS 5a* and I onsight soloed Four Star E5 6b**.  We then decided to boulder, cruising a range of problems on the pebble up to V5.  Neil the show us the way on the Green Traverse V6, which I was psyched to then flash.  Mhairi started to make good progress on it but, a break from climbing to do her ML has taken it toll on her a little.  Neil then did the V7 6c* mantel that comes up from the crux crimp on the traverse.  We finished off sending a batch off problems on the Business boulder.

A great day.

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