Saturday, 17 December 2011

Siberian Kitten

Matt and I headed  up to Craig Dafydd today with the hopes of trying a new route that Matt had spotted earlier in the week. The takes a direct route up the crag taking in some good grooves, crack and overlaps.  We settled on V,7, as the route felt a little harder and thinner than Gargoyle Wall on Ben Nevis, but the protection is pretty good.
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Pitch 1. 4.Starting at the base of Helmand Province you climb up some turfy grooves onto a ledge, step right to a leftwards slanting turfy crack - climb that and continue to the base of the obvious crack. (40m)
Pitch 2. 7. Climbs the obvious crack to a ledge (possible belay) and then continue up a shallow chimney over the overhang to a ledge and block belays. (25m)
Pitch 3. 5. Climb the left on the 2 obvious grooves until a tricky step can be made across into the right groove (a bit bold), follow this groove until a step can be made around the arete  onto a ledge and then climb the short steep groove to an awkward finish - belay well back. (30m)

Top section of pitch 2
We called the route Siberian Kitten - with a nod to Greg Boswell. Pete Macpherson and Guy Roberston's route Siberian Tiger.

Matt on the crack of Pitch 2



Adam heading into the second groove of Pitch 3.


The turf was in pretty good shape mostly after an obvious change in the weather from yesterday, with a good dusting of fresh snow.

Andy Turner was out with Calum Muskett and climbed Traversty VIII, 8 on Clogwyn Du.  A good first route of the season for Andy.  Check out his blog for pics andf more details, http://andyturnerclimbing.blogspot.com/

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