Sunday, 18 December 2011


After yesterday, we were keen to go and have a look at Traversty VIII,8*** on Clogwyn Du today after Andy's comments that the route was well worth it.  The crag was quite busy with teams on El Machno VI,7****, Blenderhead VII,8*** and Piller Chimney V***.

Trying hard in the wind on pitch 1

Matt crushing the crux pitch
The conditions were very wintry today, with a lot of rime and ice about making it tricky to see some of the small foothold and hooks.  That said, it was my lead and fancied the crux first pitch,  It is fair to say that I did not climb as efficiently as I could have and got a little pumped placing the gear.  I struggled to spot the crucial foothold quickly which boosted the pump.  I climbed back to the belay for a rest and re-group and tried again. The rest had not been long enough, and I failed in the crux.  I managed to get back on and was almost through the crux when the axe I was matching ripped and sent me flying into space.  After a lot of wasted energy trying to get back on, I retreated to the belay and offered Matt the pitch.  He was not sure at first, but then all the training he has been putting in showed as he made quick work of the pitch.  A fine lead.

Getting stuck into the offwidth second pitch
The second pitch was no gift, climbing a steep and awkward offwidth the was worth VI, 6 in it's own right.  A short, but still surprising final pitch saw up happy at the top.

Happy to be past the offwidth on Pitch 2

All smiles after another great day
It has been a pretty good weekend, but the forecast does not look good for tomorrow with the temperature set the rise and rain come in as well.

A short bit of video showing the windy nature of the day.

Matt & Adam - Traversty from Andy Turner on Vimeo.
Andy Turner and Baggy were out today and did a couple of new route, check Andy's and Baggy's blogs for more info.

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