Wednesday, 22 February 2012

Newtyle Coaching

As the weather has wiped out all the mixed climbing and any steep ice would be dangerous, Newtyle Quarry was the best option.  Rob was on his own yesterday, so we continued our focus on improving his confidence on trickier mixed routes.  The easy routes in the quarry roughly work out to be Scottish tech 5,6 and 7, so loads to work on.

Once the rope was up, we focused on precise footwork and placements as Rob had a go on all of the routes.  It is all a bit foreign when you first start dry tooling, but Rob quickly improved with every route he climbed.  Rob then climbed the 2 easier lines using only 1 axe.  This was a great way to focus the feet, find the balance point and trust the small hooks.  The progression in Rob's movement was excellent, so it was time to see if he could keep this going whilst on the sharp end.  On his first lead, he had a blip in composure and took a small fall.  Rather than shake his confidence, this seemed to focus him, and he led both routes in very good style.

The 2 day we have had have been very good considering the weather.  We opted to cancel today as there was no way we could achieve Rob's aims and the weather is truly awful in the Fort.

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