Friday, 8 June 2012

The Only Dry Route in West Yorkshire?

Having checked the weather forecast more times than I can remember this week, I was hopeful today that one route many still be dry.  Heptonstall just keeps on giving at the moment, and my hunch was right.  The crag often does well when it rains if the wind direction is right.  Although not perfect today, it was good enough for Midnight Lightning E5 6b**.  Sheltered by big corners on either side and a roof above, the overhanging wall was perfect.  The fact that the route does not go to the top of the crag is even better, so you don't have a wet top out.  Instead, you can just scuttle off down rabbit ledge.

This is one of the few routes I had not climbed here, so was happy to get on today.  Also, after a week nursing a mild tear in a hip flexor, it was good to go climbing.  Easy climbing take you up the zigzag cracks and to a peg.  From here a mantle/press helps you discover a hidden slot.  Now the climbing kicks in.  Powerful and dynamic moves are needed to gain the big flake nose.  Not trusting my hip and finding it hard I fell off.  This process was repeated a few times, before I manned up and got the big flake.  It's not quite over there, a few good moves lead you to the comfort of Bull's Crack.

A great route that is overlooked, but definitely worth doing.

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