|Entering the crux on Retribution Rib|
The Orchrist E5 6b* has an easy start and hard finish (crux) at a height that really makes you think. It is probably on the edge of highball at 11m and not my style being a powerful, burly roof. After thinking about it for a little while, I opted to give it a bash on a rope first. I was quite happy about this as it was pretty grainy after the rain at the point you really didn't want it to be. After brushing a few holds and finding the cheeky, but painful knee bar Egyptian , I had it down. I shunted it a few times to get the whole route wired, then took a good rest. After drumming up some more man power, I went for it. This time I struggled to get the knee bar to sit right. Looking at my lonely pad, with the burlometer starting to run down I went for the max pain option off diving my knee against the sharpest part of the hole. Gritting my teeth to shut out the discomfort, I pulled through to the good finishing pocket. Pretty happy I chilled out for a bit with the burlometer now on empty.
|The classic Pebble Wall|
I did a couple of classic problems to finish off, the best of which were Pebble Wall V5 6b*** (as always) and a cool V7 6c* that Andy Swann pointed out to me on Black Wall. It is the true direct start to Aries Ook.
A pretty good morning all round for me, but I am definitely not as fit or strong as I was just after the winter. It will take a little while before I learn how to balance the joys of parenthood with climbing well.