Thursday, 19 July 2012

Tired at Kilnsey

After a great day at Almscliff on Tuesday, I had planned yesterday to do some light circuits at the wall to recover a bit.  When the weather improved in the afternoon it changed my plans and I ended up trying a range of tricky problems at Woodhouse Scar.

Rob getting stuck into The Directissima

So when we ended up at Kilnsey today, rather than following Rob and Pete up some classic trad routes on Malham Right Wing, it was all suddenly a bit steeper.  Things started on the usual warm up routes, which was good for Rob on his first visit to the crag.  We then moved to one of the few dry routes at a relatively easy grade.  Pete had been trying the left hand finish to The Directissima 7a/+***.  So this seemed a reasonable option for me to try and onsight and Rob could get stuck into the Directissima 6c***.  Pete put the clips in and familiarised himself with the moves.  Then I was up and tried the onsight.  I got through the crux fine, but then tried to go too direct to the final bolt.  When I realised, it was too late and I was in no mans land, off I came.  Rob made good progress on The Directissima, finally linking it in 2 but running out of steam for the redpoint today.  Pete suffered the same on the LH finish.  I had another go and managed to climb the route without much hassle next go.

With how tired I felt this morning when I go up, I was pretty happy to tick something today.

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