Yesterday I managed to get a few routes climbed in between the showers. I was down in the Peak visiting friends, so trawled the guide looking for quick hit routes that would be finger friendly. That meant aretes and slabs.
I had recently worked in the roadside bay at Lawrencefield and finally found out what a couple of the aretes were called and graded. These seemed like good options to start on. First up was Brain Cells in Collision E3 5c*. After abseiling down and brushing (which I was glad I did), I flashed the route. A good exposed few moves around the arete make for a cool route. The Next arete was The Last Day of Freedom E4 6a, a nice little route, all open handed on the side that mattered. I was happy to flash this as well. A massive shower hit, so I went home for lunch.
After a couple of hours of dry windy weather, I ran out to Froggatt to bag a couple more routes. I climbed Indoor Fisherman E4 6a**, which I toproped clean first go, then soloed. The guide marks this as open handed/slopey, but it was quite edgy until the very top section. This was evident from the ground and I didn't want to start up with a recovering hand and get over committed. I'm glad I did this, as it was right at the limit of what my finger could take at the moment. I changed climbing style for the final route and headpointed Hairy Heart E6 6a* on the Great Slab. Climbed on sight on a rope, then soloed, a total gripper!!!! I wish I had manned up and on sighted it, but nevermind. A good route though, and one more E6 on this slab to do, then the harder ones.