Wednesday, 9 October 2013

Finger Therapy

I managed to grab a quick hours bouldering today, so the only choice was Woodhouse.  This does work in my favor as I know all the problems so well, I can focus on the things that will help me get strong again.  After warming up on classics like Radium Arete, I got stuck into the tricky problems on the Angel Face.

Two weeks ago I could not hold the slot which makes up the crux of most of the harder problems without pain.  Today was a different story.  After putting a bit of time into routes and problems, I was feeling stronger than expected.  It was a real pleasure to climb Angel Face, Angel Face Roof Eliminate and Angel Face Reverse all font 7b+.  They all felt much harder than before, but it is real progress to be able to do these again.  I still can't crimp properly, but my open hand strength is improving as an added bonus.

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