Adrenaline Rush and a Bit of Work at Caley

I was working at Caley this evening, finishing up a intro to rock course. With the weather good and the temperature not too high, I thought I would get a route in. I through a rope down Psycho E5/6 6b***, but just could not touch the crux. After a few tries I changed my focus. I had hoped to onsight Adrenaline Rush E5 6b***, but my quick plat on Psycho had put me off. I climbed it clean on my first 2 tries whilst belaying myself on a gri gri, so the solo was on. A quick break and the route was dispatched.

Half an hour later my clients arrived. We focused on coaching movement and footwork on a range of boulder problems, whilst refreshing the rigging on some of the higher one. Rosie and Andy seem to have taken a lot on board, and now have a good platform to build on.

Chee Tor

I met up with Martin and John at the Outside cafe in Hathersage to make a decision on where to climb today. Chee Tor was the venue of choice, this was my first so I was pretty psyched.

Below: John on Meditation

The routes were a little damp in the bottom quarter, but fine once you got past that point. Martin started us off leading Alfresco HVS 5b. Despite having no stars, this had some good climbing once you got past the damp, dirty start. John then led the classic Meditatiion E1 5b*** which has sustained technical climbing with excellent rests and even better gear. It was my turn and fancied the classic Ceramic E4 5c***. The route is continually technical, getting harder with height, but enough gear to be safe. The crux is at the top top end of the 5c bracket, and the dusty holds add to the spice. A must if you visit the crag and this is your grade. Martin and John both led Hergiani E2 5b*, which is another good route. I fancied the classic Midnight Summer Dream, but time was not on my side. Next time.

Above: Me onsighting Ceramic

There are still loads of good routes to do here, so I will be back. A massive plus is the fact it is a Saturday and we were the only folks at the crag.

Pics to come when Martin sends them through.

Irish Sea Stacks

Colm sent me a few pics of the stacks they have been climbing over in Ireland.

A Few Picks

Above: Andy on Chip and Pin

Below: Neil on Coalition Crack

Below: Martin on Kirby Wall

Roost Take 2

Andy, Neil and I went back to the Roost today with the aim of trying the Cartel E7 6c***. Andy was not climbing today and very kindly abseiled and brushed the route for us. Neil warmed up ticking the Indirect Start to Chip and Pin E5 6b***, which I climbed as well. It was time to get stuck into the challenge for the day, and Neil was up first. He made a fine job of onsighting Coalition Crack E5 6b*** to the rest before you move into the offwidth and easy ground. This is where the Cartel goes up the headwall. He spent a good while shaking out and trying to work out where to go, then the rain really started to come down, wetting the finishing holds. Neil made the sensible choice to finish Coalition Crack instead.

I had no doubt that flashing the Cartel was a bit of a dream, so I went to see how it was. I managed to get into the meat of the hard climbing but took numerous falls trying to finish what we think is the crux. A bit of work ground up might see this get ticked at some point.

Neil decided to save it for the flash and led Con dem Nation E6 6b*** instead. Narrowly missing out on the flash with a fall low down, but lowered off and led it cleanly next go. I followed the route to get the kit back and it was really greasy today, probably the worst condition I have climbed it in. A fine effort by Neil, who now only has a few routes to do at the crag. It has been great to see other folks climb these routes as well.

I'll try and sort some pics out of the last cpouple of days soon.

Malham Right Wing

Neil and Andy had bailed from Wales yesterday and made there way up to mine. We went to the Roost yesterday where Andy Flashed Chip and Pin E5 6a***, and Neil flashed this as well as Sleepy Hollow E6 6b*** which all made superb viewing.

Today we went to Malham and we were joined by Martin. He led a good range of classic HVS's, Andy led Wombat E2 5c*** and followed Neil up Wind and Wuthering E3 5c**. I led Crossbones E2 5c*** and followed Neil up Articulated Loris E5 6a* to finish a good day despite the cold.

2 Crags in 1 Day

Above: Dan following the 1st pith of Face Route

After being ill last week and failing to climb on Monday having still not recovered fully, I was keen to get back into it in the Dales today with Dan. We started out at Gordale warming up on one of the easy sport routes (not recommended). Face Route E3 5c,6a*** was next. I led the 1st pitch, which we both thought was the main event. Fantastic, intricate climbing which feels quite out there with the fixed gear now so poor. Dan swiftly led the 2nd pitch which was probably only VS to the 1 crux move. A bit of a let down really.

Above: Dan following the 1st pith of Face Route
Below: Dan setting off up the 2nd pitch

We then moved on to Malham to tick some classics. Dan made short work of Wombat E2 5c***, then turned his attention to Wind and Wuthering E3 5c**. He put in a sterling effort, but fatigue set in through the crux and the lob was taken. I then had a go with the extra benefit of Dan's gear. A bit of extra energy seemed to come back and this made the difference as I picked my way through the crux. A good route to finish the day.